Joined the club!

[InThePlums]

Hello new comrades! Just purchased a 2000 vmax last week. Won't lie and say it was exactly what I was looking for, but budget and circumstance aligned into a deal I couldn't pass up. This machine has exceeded my expectations. I've only owned two cruisers in my short riding career, the first being an 02 Suzuki Volusia, the second being an 08 vtx1800f by Honda. Both bikes were rode well and loved.
I'm counting the vmax as the first sport bike I've owned, mainly due to the tucked in seating position, especially at my height (6'2), the short quick handlebar length, (love at first corner) and the rpm range through the gears, (this thing is a rev monster). Why even mark the redline on the tach? Just stop the dial at 9. ("These amps go to 11"). So here's the rundown on the condition and then I'd like some feedback on my plans for modding.

Wheels:
Stock on both ends w/fairly fresh Shinko TM's

Exhaust
Supertrapp slip ons w/o any discs or caps. Very nice tone.

Engine:
Air box seems to have the stock filter
Oil gauge added (or is it stock?) forward the rear brake control, (Good location?).
Seems to run rich, smells like fuel, slight stutter if I blip the throttle too quickly.
The airbox also seems to have a mist of fuel on the walls of the interior. (Jets/idle screw need attention?). Have checked all connections and hoses for damage/wear.

Front end:
Steering seems ok, I feel like handling could be better. Research has pointed me towards fork and frame braces, radials (out of budget for the time being) given the rear wheel needs to be upgraded, and I read instructions for a stem mod that has reassembly in a different order than factory specs to improve corner handling.

Here's where I'm going to start, and this is were your experience and knowledge will be beneficial to me, to point me in the right direction.

Step 1
Carbs:
Cleaning, trying to determine jet sizes and needle type/shim placement.
Possible rejet to smaller mains (is 145 the general go to?)
Would individual filters be recommended?
Or shim the top airbox "y"?
Or just high flow filter replacement?
Not really looking for a lot of gains, just would like to get it running as efficiently as possible.
Syncing (what tool is best for the vmax?)

Step 2
Handling:
Check tire balance
Fork air/oil (advice on psi/oil specs?)
Change all bearings (wheels, swingarm, stem?) @ 14k miles might not all be necessary but for the cost and time it's worth the peace of mind.
(Advice on the stem reassembly mod?)
If anyone has a recommendation on changing the fork springs, looking for sportier/stiffer handling. I understand from research it'll only get so much better without changing to radials but I need to start with the affordable stuff for now.
Rear shocks don't look to be oem and have a good bit of adjustability so I'll dial those in as I ride more.

Step 3
Clutch:
Minor slippage, will dig in to check plates and spring wear. May replace.
Would like some feedback on upgrading to the multi spring setup. (2000 vmax is w/ single spring correct?)
And of course check fluids, cables and linkages for adjustments.

So that's where my plan starts. Any and all input from you guys is much appreciated and I look forward to getting to know ya'll!
Thanks in advance -Eric






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Specs95t]

Welcome to VMax ownership.

I've kept a list of updates that I have done since I bought mine last August.

So far, I have noticed positive results with each mod...

If there was one that made little difference (IMO) it would be adding the fork brace to the front...

Mad Monkey List (work in progress)
8/15:
(18,500 mi)
Progressive front springs
EBC HH front brake pads

9/15:
Morley's head bearing adjustment
3/4" front fork drop
UFO front fork brace
2800 lumen LED headlight bulb

10/15:
turn signals/running lights (incandescent)
D clutch mod (full 8th disk, stock spring)

3/16:
(21,500 mi)
Venture Rear Swing Arm
Shinko Tourmaster 230's: 120 in front, 170 in back
Superbike handlebar with new grips, levers, reservoir covers and mirrors
Engine guards

4/16:
(21,500 mi)
COPS and plugs
SS brake lines
Carb sync
rear LED taillight - instead of reflector

 

[InThePlums]

Welcome to VMax ownership.

I've kept a list of updates that I have done since I bought mine last August.

So far, I have noticed positive results with each mod...

If there was one that made little difference (IMO) it would be adding the fork brace to the front...

Mad Monkey List (work in progress)
8/15:
(18,500 mi)
Progressive front springs
EBC HH front brake pads

9/15:
Morley's head bearing adjustment
3/4" front fork drop
UFO front fork brace
2800 lumen LED headlight bulb

10/15:
turn signals/running lights (incandescent)
D clutch mod (full 8th disk, stock spring)

3/16:
(21,500 mi)
Venture Rear Swing Arm
Shinko Tourmaster 230's: 120 in front, 170 in back
Superbike handlebar with new grips, levers, reservoir covers and mirrors
Engine guards

4/16:
(21,500 mi)
COPS and plugs
SS brake lines
Carb sync
rear LED taillight - instead of reflector

Which coils and plugs did you go with and did you notice any improvement,snappier response etc.?

 

[blaxmax]

Hello new comrades! Just purchased a 2000 vmax last week. Won't lie and say it was exactly what I was looking for, but budget and circumstance aligned into a deal I couldn't pass up. This machine has exceeded my expectations. I've only owned two cruisers in my short riding career, the first being an 02 Suzuki Volusia, the second being an 08 vtx1800f by Honda. Both bikes were rode well and loved.
I'm counting the vmax as the first sport bike I've owned, mainly due to the tucked in seating position, especially at my height (6'2), the short quick handlebar length, (love at first corner) and the rpm range through the gears, (this thing is a rev monster). Why even mark the redline on the tach? Just stop the dial at 9. ("These amps go to 11"). So here's the rundown on the condition and then I'd like some feedback on my plans for modding.

Wheels:
Stock on both ends w/fairly fresh Shinko TM's

Exhaust
Supertrapp slip ons w/o any discs or caps. Very nice tone.

Engine:
Air box seems to have the stock filter
Oil gauge added (or is it stock?) forward the rear brake control, (Good location?).
Seems to run rich, smells like fuel, slight stutter if I blip the throttle too quickly.
The airbox also seems to have a mist of fuel on the walls of the interior. (Jets/idle screw need attention?). Have checked all connections and hoses for damage/wear.

Front end:
Steering seems ok, I feel like handling could be better. Research has pointed me towards fork and frame braces, radials (out of budget for the time being) given the rear wheel needs to be upgraded, and I read instructions for a stem mod that has reassembly in a different order than factory specs to improve corner handling.

Here's where I'm going to start, and this is were your experience and knowledge will be beneficial to me, to point me in the right direction.

Step 1
Carbs:
Cleaning, trying to determine jet sizes and needle type/shim placement.
Possible rejet to smaller mains (is 145 the general go to?)
Would individual filters be recommended?
Or shim the top airbox "y"?
Or just high flow filter replacement?
Not really looking for a lot of gains, just would like to get it running as efficiently as possible.
Syncing (what tool is best for the vmax?)

Step 2
Handling:
Check tire balance
Fork air/oil (advice on psi/oil specs?)
Change all bearings (wheels, swingarm, stem?) @ 14k miles might not all be necessary but for the cost and time it's worth the peace of mind.
(Advice on the stem reassembly mod?)
If anyone has a recommendation on changing the fork springs, looking for sportier/stiffer handling. I understand from research it'll only get so much better without changing to radials but I need to start with the affordable stuff for now.
Rear shocks don't look to be oem and have a good bit of adjustability so I'll dial those in as I ride more.

Step 3
Clutch:
Minor slippage, will dig in to check plates and spring wear. May replace.
Would like some feedback on upgrading to the multi spring setup. (2000 vmax is w/ single spring correct?)
And of course check fluids, cables and linkages for adjustments.

So that's where my plan starts. Any and all input from you guys is much appreciated and I look forward to getting to know ya'll!
Thanks in advance -Eric






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome intheplums-Oil gauge is added,a/f should be around 2 1/2 -3 turns out (sometimes the rears are 1/4 to 1/2 turn more than the front), fork and frame braces will work well, Your main jets are probably stock 152.5 unless someone put larger jets in with the pipe. Go down 1 step at a time- 150's will work with that pipe and 6-8 plates recommended for supertrapp.You should try a "shotgun" to clean out the carbs and maybe get rid of that stumble-some guys add "cops" (I build and sell those) for an upgrade to the problematic coils cracking, Just a good K&N single will be fine for air flow. There is an all out stage 7 kit that requires 4 filters and some removing the vboost, morgan carbtune is my choice for sync tool,fork air is a preference mine is 6lbs, furbur fix for the stem, if that clutch is starting to slip it will only get worse when it gets to the vboost kicking in, get stock plates at boats.net-a lot cheaper than yamaha.
We certainly need another eric here so welcome.
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm


http://www.micro-delta.com/vmax/furbur.htm


http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2000/V-MAX - VMX1200M/CLUTCH/parts.html

 

[blaxmax]

Which coils and plugs did you go with and did you notice any improvement,snappier response etc.?

You can read about those here--- http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=40699

 

[InThePlums]

You can read about those here--- http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=40699

Awesome info! I appreciate you attaching the links as well!

 

[Traumahawk]

Step 1
Carbs:
Cleaning, trying to determine jet sizes and needle type/shim placement. Stock needles arent shimmed, and really no need to unless you go to a complete aftermarket exhaust.
Possible rejet to smaller mains (is 145 the general go to?)Stock is 152's, 150's should work.
Would individual filters be recommended?NOPE!!!! not unless running a stage 7 kit.
Or shim the top airbox "y"? MAYBE.....only 3/8's of an inch
Or just high flow filter replacement? if you want
Not really looking for a lot of gains, just would like to get it running as efficiently as possible.
Syncing (what tool is best for the vmax?) Morgan carbtune. http://www.carbtune.com/

Step 2
Handling:
Check tire balance
Fork air/oil (advice on psi/oil specs?) progressive springs, and synthetic power steering fluid/ATF
Change all bearings (wheels, swingarm, stem?) @ 14k miles might not all be necessary but for the cost and time it's worth the peace of mind.
(Advice on the stem reassembly mod?) Just make certain the steering head bearings arent to tight....or too lose. Will post the video at the bottom.
If anyone has a recommendation on changing the fork springs, looking for sportier/stiffer handling. I understand from research it'll only get so much better without changing to radials but I need to start with the affordable stuff for now.
Rear shocks don't look to be oem and have a good bit of adjustability so I'll dial those in as I ride more.

Step 3
Clutch:
Minor slippage, will dig in to check plates and spring wear. May replace.
Would like some feedback on upgrading to the multi spring setup. (2000 vmax is w/ single spring correct?) The is called the DD mod
And of course check fluids, cables and linkages for adjustments.

So that's where my plan starts. Any and all input from you guys is much appreciated and I look forward to getting to know ya'll!
Thanks in advance -Eric






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw the post about COPS.....yes they do help, but the benefit is based on how bad your current electrical system is. If its bad...then yes i lot of improvement. You are upgrading to a newer system though. No hp increase shown on the dyno.

Here's how to set your steering head bearings. His name is Sean Morley. [email protected] He can get you basically anything you need. Any Vmax...and a lot of non Vmax related issues, can be fixed by this forum

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OW-CmACI5xQ

 

[blaxmax]

Sorry eric, Had to open that one up to see what it was.I have sent my wires out to quite a few members and non members that have resistors on their vmax's with stock ignition boxes. Some have different ignition boxes and are treated differently.
I have sent them in trade to members who had resistors in their wires and they have noticed immediate improvements in the difference without them. If you do not need the resistors and use them there is the chance that you are not going to get the fire you need. The vmax has a proven weak set of coils.They get hot and crack.
Imagine having resistors and trying to dyno a motor when resistors are not needed.
You would not see any hp increase because you have resistance where it is not needed. Make since?
I have also noticed that all the spilker resistors I have collected from users are made in mexico. Although they do say Product of the USA and designed here.You can send your email and I will send photos. I just don't want you getting any false info.
I hope you understand.

 

[InThePlums]

I saw the post about COPS.....yes they do help, but the benefit is based on how bad your current electrical system is. If its bad...then yes i lot of improvement. You are upgrading to a newer system though. No hp increase shown on the dyno.



Here's how to set your steering head bearings. His name is Sean Morley. [email protected] He can get you basically anything you need. Any Vmax...and a lot of non Vmax related issues, can be fixed by this forum



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OW-CmACI5xQ

Thanks so much for the info! You guys have been awesome!

 

[Traumahawk]

Sorry eric, Had to open that one up to see what it was.I have sent my wires out to quite a few members and non members that have resistors on their vmax's with stock ignition boxes. Some have different ignition boxes and are treated differently.
I have sent them in trade to members who had resistors in their wires and they have noticed immediate improvements in the difference without them. If you do not need the resistors and use them there is the chance that you are not going to get the fire you need. The vmax has a proven weak set of coils.They get hot and crack.
Imagine having resistors and trying to dyno a motor when resistors are not needed.
You would not see any hp increase because you have resistance where it is not needed. Make since?
I have also noticed that all the spilker resistors I have collected from users are made in mexico. Although they do say Product of the USA and designed here.You can send your email and I will send photos. I just don't want you getting any false info.
I hope you understand.

Well like MaxMidnight said in one of his posts, the amount of improvement is based on how bad your stock system was.

Ive dynod from stock to resistors, and then went to non resistors (and changed multiple things) which is what I am running now.Non resistored COPS. AsherC went from stock to non resisitord COPS. The bikes do start better....but no hp increases at the dyno. Now, like Ive said before....some of these bikes are 30 years old, and going to an updated ignition system is a plus...BECAUSE coils are hard to find, and if your on a road trip, and one is split open you cant suddenly change it out. With COPS, go down to your local OReillys and order a new one, and have it the next day.

One thing to keep in mind...When I got my first set of COPS....no one really knew if you had to run resistors....or not, so i played it safe, and got a set with resistors. Information came out since then, that you didnt need them....so when I picked up the 86 that I have and I bought all of his spare parts as well, lo and behold....non resistored COPS....brand new and still in the package, SO....thats what I swapped to the 07, BEFORE I spent quite a bit of money last year dynoing.

So, if you think that i'm running resistored COPS....your mistaken. As far as I know of only 2 people have dyno'd before and after with COPS...If I'm wrong, please enlighten me...but share the dyno sheets as well.

EDIT*** I will say this....mine is an 07, so the stock ignition was pretty good, BUT....Ashers coils were cracked. I THINK his is a 99, but it depends on how bad the ignition system is, as to how much of an increase is as well. I do consider you right about one thing, resistors for COPS turn energy to heat and so it doesnt reach the plug. If resistors arent needed, dont run them

 

[caseyjones955]

Welcome! congrats on your acquisition.

I dont think it will disappoint you at all. I'm about your height and a decent seat and highway pegs made considerable difference. If your pulling the carbs take note of all the jet sizes and needles, as I understand it float level is critical to. If it's running rich enough to smell (as mine was) then its WELL worthwhile to get her dialed in.

 

[blaxmax]

PM sent.

 

[blaxmax]

eric, if you were talking to me I have no idea what you said as you are blocked.I was referring to Eric of River Ridge

 

[Yamaha_Fan]

When I got mine the front end felt really loose, I rebuilt the forks and installed Progressive spring, put the right size front tire on, new wheel bearings, and it feels 100% better.

My clutch was slipping as well and getting worse, I put a new clutch in and did the DD mod (extra spring), much more responsive and grabs and pulls great.