Between youtube and the threads stored/available here, you can research which method is the one you wish to attempt. They all work. Their time to work is different. Some require more effort. If you have a safe place to do it, I think the electrolysis method is probably the most 'dramatic,' because as the electricity in the electrolyte does its iron transfer 'thing,' you get bubbles and over a relatively short period, the anodes collect the iron and the gas tank noticeably becomes less-rusty. However, I wouldn't do it inside your garage, 'just in-case.' Think of having to explain to your insurance adjuster what you were doing.
About the electrolyte method, you need an old-fashioned battery charger, as the new ones need a 'load' on them to begin the charge/electrolyte action. I've read where hooking up a 9 VDC battery can start the newer chargers as they present the load that the newer battery chargers need to begin. From the 9 VDC battery connect a wire to each terminal and place the other ends into the electrolytic solution. Then hoook-up the battery charger and start it. These are all anecdotal ways to use electrolysis,
use at your own discretion. If you have any doubts about electrolysis,
do not attempt to use it. However, working with a battery charger and an electrolytic solution, and the anode/cathode, does present a possibility of something wrong happening, possibly with calamitous results.
That's why I believe the cleaning vinegar method is safer. It does a good job, and you can do it in the gas tank without having to immerse the tank into the vinegar solution. The vinegar can be filtered and re-used. You will know when it's time to dispose of it.
A reminder to remove the gas tank fuel sender switch, if you use cleaning vinegar. What happens if you
don't remove it:
View attachment 95214
The gas tank fuel sender switch blank-off plate, made from strap steel.
View attachment 95215
Here's info from member
Randy67500 about Metal Rescue, see for yourself how it worked:
View attachment 95216View attachment 95217
This is the thread this is found in:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/fuel-tank-cleaning.50516/#post-507181
Plenty of good suggestions, including one from CaptainKyle, fill your gas tank after a ride, leaving no room for condensation to begin rusting in the gas tank.
This above process appears similar to using cleaning vinegar. The advantage to the cleaning vinegar is that you can strain it of any particulate material, and save the vinegar for another use. It's also cheaper than the specialty products, and is easily disposed-of when its cleaning power is weak, after multiple uses.
I have a hobby of collecting pedal cars. Here's a 'sad-face' pedal car which I de-rusted with 6% cleaning vinegar, over a couple of days.
View attachment 95218View attachment 95219
One of our faux gas tank tins, before, then during:
View attachment 95220View attachment 95221
and after:
View attachment 95222
Given its price, effectiveness, safety, reusability, and ease of disposal, you can understand why I champion the cleaning vinegar. My concentration was 6% and I did the pedal car front before I did the faux tank cover, so you can see that it still works. Straining out the small bits of steel help the reclaimed vinegar to retain its usability. I used cheesecloth and a wide funnel into the 1 gallon vinegar plastic container to store it.
The process at-work. I use bricks to take-up space inside the plastic container so you can use less cleaning vinegar. From the effervescent action and the change in color from clear to dirty-brown, you can see it working. Be sure to thoroughly dry your pieces after rinsing the part in fresh water, and then prime it or use some sort of oil on it. Flash rust happens in a matter of minutes, so be sure to allocate sufficient time for the rinse/primer or other anti-rust coating.
View attachment 95223
These pics in this post are all from the search function. I used
vinegar gas tank as search words,
rust removal would be another good one.
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