Just got my first Vmax! Advice for me, intro for you!

[DigitalArts]

So before I ask for advice, I will talk about myself a bit I suppose xP I am a college Junior and I used to ride an 07 CBR 600rr, I sold it awhile back to pay the lady friend her portion of the money towards it back (she's pretty cool for helping, right?) and now I'm making the move to purchase a red Vmax, 1985 with 45,000 miles and tons of goodies for $2,000.

I was torn between a V65 for 975 (stock, not mint at all) or this bike, and when the guy showed me an $1100 receipt for the dual Holeshot exhaust, and an $1800 receipt for the velocity stacks and custom intake manifold (in 2003 from UFO) I was basically sold. Then he had to go and start it up, and my ears proceeded to gasm, I questioned why anyone would consider riding a SS bike and my life goals became clear. Ok maybe not all that but it was really freakin awesome xD

Anyway, the paint is 7/10 (couple scratches, clearcoat is barely decent) and the miles really worry me. As a new generation kid I heard the velocity stacks and thought a piston was badly broken or something, he quickly informed me that that was just the sound of badass.

Anyway, I have already commited to buying it with a deposit and the guy says that everything is top notch besides some TLC but I'm hopefully going to bring my cousin to test second and see if the carbs need tuned/valves need adjusted.

I'm currently scheduled to receive the bike in full around 12/19 and I'm beyond excited. I hope I made the right choice.



Ok, so as for the questions.

1) I know the deal (in a basic sense) of the velocity stacks. He told me there was no choke due to them being on there. Is this going to give me problems?

2) What things should I do immediately besides seafoam treatment since he hasn't ridden it terribly much in the last 10 years?

3) Can anyone send me a link on how to adjust the carbs/valves? I'm sure it needs both and my popop is out of town for awhile so I doubt he has the time to do it for me.

4) The velocity stacks were done by UFO in 2003. What do I need to know about them from the pictures?



Here is an imgur link that when clicked will show you some pictures of the bike!

https://imgur.com/a/Zp4CH

 

[jfeagins]

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on your soon to be new Vmax. You are buying the ABSOLUTE BESTEST OF THE BEST VMAX year & color ever produced. I've had mine for over 29 years now, and still counting.

As mine is still OEM stock, basicly, I can't give any advice on those stacks.

 

[DigitalArts]

Haha! Well that is awesome to hear!!!

I actually was just about to buy an 83 V65 Magna for 975, then I saw this thing for 2k, the lady convinced me to go see it, and when he started it up I was done for.

My reaction looked something like this:

http://jazzinghen.files.wordpress.c...gilgamesh-shut-up-and-take-my-money.gif?w=604

 

[davesax36]

First valve adjustment isn't until 26k, so you're good there for a while. If it starts and runs, I'd just check the tires for dry rot and go ahead and ride the thing. Put new gas in it, and check the fuel filter for any rusty bits. If it's got junk in it, either buy a new tank or take yours out and coat it with por-15 or red kote or Kreem. You might go a head and change the brake and clutch fluid (complete empty and reverse bleed -- search here for that method) and see what you've got. For that price you've made a steal. There are a set of regular carbs for sale on here for $300 right now. You could sell your UFO carbs for about $1k, buy those, and spend the rest paying off the bike or upgrading your brakes, tires/wheels, or pretty much anything.

Welcome to the board.

 

[Bill Seward]

I've owned an '85 since new, also. Gonna be 30 years next April.. As far as the mileage worrying you, find something else to worry about! I've got 129,000 miles on mine - with no major mechanical problems. Engine has never been taken apart, heads never been off. As far as the repairs, I put a clutch in it at about 50,000 (if memory serves), a clutch slave cylinder at the same time, and a stator at about 60,000 miles. These are the only parts replaced on the motor - Crank, transmission, rods, valves, pistons etc. not touched...
Of course, other parts have been replaced - a set of fork seals, fork springs (Progressive - cuz I wanted them not needed them), front wheel bearings, a pile of brake pads, a set of brake rotors, and a set of steering bearings to be done before spring. Don't even ask about tires! Stock paint, stock pipes (for now...). No problems at all with driveshaft. A couple of OEM old style voltage regulators - till I got a MOSFET unit. Replaced coils with a homemade COPS setup.

Keep clean oil in it, don't beat the snot out of it, and it will last forever.... (The only variable is how previous owner took care of it - all anyone ever did to mine before I got it was to build it..)

 

[DigitalArts]

Thanks for all of the support guys! I feel a lot better about my purchase now.

I love the sound of the UFO carbs so I think I'll keep them and eventually updrage the rear tire to a 160 radial, along with radial front tire, and also get a nice set of shocks, front fork springs etc, and new engine mounts/frame brace.

Heck, I don't even have the bike yet because of money and I'm already looking at another 1.5k in awesome upgrades!

I just put down the next 500, so I'm 1000 in and 1000 more to go until it's under my butt.

I'm honestly not sure how it was taken care of, the guy has about 8 bikes in his garage and he's probably between 30-40 so I can only assume he knows enough to have bought a good one and not abused it.

Given that it had no choke I was suprised it started up almost as soon as he hit the button! Can't get that sound out of my mind.

 

[davesax36]

Just so you know. To get a radial on the rear, you're gonna have to get a new wheel. Then you options open up.

 

[Traumahawk]

Congrats for getting a Vmax. They really are great bikes, and this is a great forum. Dont hesitate to ask any question.

 

[Redbone]

Congrats on your purchase! I'm sure with all the information and experience on VMF you will find all the tools, tricks and mods that you can throw at the Vmax. As far as your carbs I'm sure Sean or Damon can get you clackty clackin' right along in no time.:clapping:
And welcome to VMF!

 

[MaxMidnight]

2) What things should I do immediately besides seafoam treatment since he hasn't ridden it terribly much in the last 10 years?

It is a sad reflection on other owners that they don't always maintain their machines as the manufacturer would have intended (everyone on this site excepted!

?)

On that basis I would give it a full service (check sheet here) so you have a good starting point for your ownership plus it will help you become more familiar with it.
Whilst I take to point made earlier about checking the valve shims, that assume a PO was diligent and did it, a dangerous assumption! Check them yourself then you will know that they are OK. If not already acquired then a shop manual will show the process, alternatively look here for the method.

If the plug leads and caps look original then replace them.
Unless it has had the brake hoses replaced then these are also candidates for the bin and potentially the coolant hoses.

Check the carb balance first; if they need adjustment then this is the method I found for Kehin Flatslides - I'm sure others will chime in if it is wrong for the OFO's.

Synchronizing:​

I've had pretty good luck synchronizing the carbs off the bike. Using the shank of a very small drill bit, adjust the idle speed screw until you can barely fit the base of the drill bit under one of the slides as you would a feeler gauge. ​

You may have to remove the idle speed screw from the carbs and temporarily remove its locking spring to be able to thread the screw in far enough to​

slide a drill bit in unless you have some pretty small bits. ​

Do this from the engine side of the​

slide as opposed to the intake side, and make sure the carbs are oriented such that the slides are moving vertically, so their weight takes up any slack in the throttle linkage. ​

Remove the top of the carbs as you would to access the needles. ​

On the throttle shaft in each carb there is an arm which controls slide movement. It is secured by a screw and nut. ​

The nut is used for adjustments, the screw is to lock the adjusting nut in position. ​

Loosen the lock screw of the slide you are trying to adjust, turn the adjusting nut to set the slide so the drill bit just scrapes under, and tighten the lock screw. Repeat for each slide. Be prepared to spend about five times as long as you think it should take, going back and forth between slides to get everything just right.​

Replace idle speed screw locking spring. Because the carbs must be disassembled to access the adjusting mechanisms, I recommend using the above procedure. ​

You could use manometers to synchronize the carbs as you would a set of CVs, but you'd have to start and warm the bike, check vacuum levels, shut the bike off, disassemble the carbs, adjust, reassemble, restart the bike, and recheck vacuum levels. ​

You may very well kill the battery (or your bump start helpers) before you finished synching the carbs this way. ​

It has been my, and others', experience that the lock screws tend to work loose with time no matter how surely you tighten them. ​

To remedy this, after the slides are synchronized, clean the adjusters with brake or contact cleaner, blow them dry, and put a drop of silicone over their tops. You can also use Loctite 290, but it tends to ​

carbkie.html, Keihin FCR Carb Tuning Procedures http://factorypro.com/tech/carbkei.html make future adjustments a bit difficult. ​

Once the bike is up and running, if manometers show that the synchronization is off by a considerable amount at idle speed, but even out as the throttle is opened, it's entirely possible that the cylinders want different idle mixtures. ​

This is not at all uncommon, especially on V-twin engines where the intake tracts are dissimilar such as Ducati 2 valve 750s and 900s. But you'd better go and check your valve clearances first to make sure a valve isn't hanging open. If the vacuum levels are off and you're working on a V engine of some sort, make sure you didn't botch up the cam timing on one bank.
​

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on the bike!

 

[DigitalArts]

Thanks everyone! So much knowledge Lol I hope the guy wasn't lying to me, I received a message that a member here previously went to see the bike and the seller was very suspicious sounding when talking about the transmission. I really hope that second ins't bad on it.

I am already 1000 down on it, so I can't really get out at this point if it is. But he specifically told me second gear was good in it so it would be a real scumbag move for him to have lied to my face like that.

Any suggestions? I asked to test ride it before the first deposit but he said he is uncomfortable with that since it has no insurance or tags.

 

[ga_max]

I would get insurance yourself and ride it before hand. You can always cancel the policy if you need too. Better than finding out you'll need to spend $$$ on repairs.

 

[Rollie]

Welcome to our addiction.

Let's hope the reason he sold this well optioned BEAST for $ 2K , is not a second gear issue. That being said I think you got a HELLUVA good deal. No matter what is wrong with it , if anything , somebody here has had that problem and solved it on this forum.

Absolute worst case , you can part it out for more than you paid for it.

You've made an excellent choice on your bike and your web site forum. unk:

 

[Bill Seward]

See you at Thunder next June!

 

[Traumahawk]

Even if it is a 2nd gear issue....it can be fixed....its just rather expensive.

 

[DigitalArts]

I just sent him a text and asked if it was bad (again) and he re-assured me that he has never had any tranny problems.

I can't imagine what purpose he would have to lie to me after I gave him half the money with a down payment contract so I'm back to being excited

I am so ready to ride. Does anyone have any heated grip recommendations? I plan to do a bit of winter riding.

What about 440 shocks, any to get in particular? And any good frame braces/motor mounts?

I'm going to make this bike amazing. My goal is to not get left behind by my cousin on his fz6/r1 in the twisties haha. I'll also need radial tires (rear included) I suppose.

 

[Traumahawk]

Sean ([email protected]) sells frame braces....and also sells aluminum mounts. I have the mounts, havent put them in yet, but have had the frame braces for over a year. They GREATLY improve handling.

Sean also sells 440's. I have 418's....but everyone has said that the 440's are money WELL spent.

With radials.....you HAVE to swap the rear wheel, to one made for a V-max in 17 or 18 inch sizes. You can get by with putting a radial tire on the stock front rim.

 

[CrackerRican]

I just sent him a text and asked if it was bad (again) and he re-assured me that he has never had any tranny problems.

I can't imagine what purpose he would have to lie to me after I gave him half the money with a down payment contract so I'm back to being excited

I am so ready to ride. Does anyone have any heated grip recommendations? I plan to do a bit of winter riding.

What about 440 shocks, any to get in particular? And any good frame braces/motor mounts?

I'm going to make this bike amazing. My goal is to not get left behind by my cousin on his fz6/r1 in the twisties haha. I'll also need radial tires (rear included) I suppose.

You better have a big wallet!! Mod monkey will be camping at your house.

 

[1967vmax]

got any pics of this bike you can post maybe it was wrecked