Just rebuilt carbs - need assistance

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fmcandrew

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OK carb experts - just rebuilt all cabs & reinstalled. I didn't eyeball a synch or anything, just put it back together. It runs, but a bit on the rough side with a bit of coughing & some fluctuating idle. Question - is that kinda normal before synch'g & fine tuning or should I be looking for an issue? All cylinders are firing and it does hold an idle. Fresh gas & fuel filter are in.

Thanks guys!

Frank
 
Did you set the floats? If you broke carbs down you will DEFINATLY need to synch them 1 to 2 3 to 4 34 to 12 a/f screws adjusted? Did you do a wet & dry float adjustment? They run like shit until synched
 
Synch before you start wondering or worrying. These carbs do all kinds of odd thing if the synch is off.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
 
Sorry Dan-o. I've been lacking in my forum activity for the past month or so. Just tryin to catch up;)

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Hey guys...thanks for the quick responses...I benched the floats...they were all spot on. One other concern...it seems the throttle doesn't "snap" back as I recall (probably causing the idle issue)...I detached the cables at the box & didn't mess with the butterflies or the springs on the carbs. When reviewing the manual and excellent info here I couldn't get a good look at the cable routing...now when putting it back together it appeared there was only one logical path for both cables, but I'm a Vmax carb virgin so maybe I didn't find the right hole:confused2::ummm::confused2::ummm:
 
The little plastic connectors in the junction box only fit properly one way. If they are set in the wrong way, they don't slide properly. Quick way to check is open the junction and spin the connectors 90 degrees so a different face of it slides against the block. Hope you understand what I mean. No need to unhook cables for this, just spin a quarter turn. I can't remember if you should see the open side of the connector or the closed/solid side when you open the box.

Other than that, cable routing is the only thing I can think of. If you just disconnected at the block it should be much of issue though. Try taking the scoop and electrical panel off and see if it works any better. There are cable routing diarams in the manual.

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Hey guys...thanks for the quick responses...I benched the floats...they were all spot on. One other concern...it seems the throttle doesn't "snap" back as I recall (probably causing the idle issue)...I detached the cables at the box & didn't mess with the butterflies or the springs on the carbs. When reviewing the manual and excellent info here I couldn't get a good look at the cable routing...now when putting it back together it appeared there was only one logical path for both cables, but I'm a Vmax carb virgin so maybe I didn't find the right hole:confused2::ummm::confused2::ummm:

Did you move the throttle control on the handlebars at all? I found that if you push the controls a little too far toward the speedo when you tighten it all up the rubber of the grips can catch on the end of the handlebars, causing the throttle not to return smoothly.

If not that, then it's definitely your cable routing, it only works well one way.

I like to lube the cable just a little with a tiny drop of very light oil too, but only if you can see some rust in there, otherwise oil will only attract dust and dirt.
 
Carb wish list. External float adjustment. Adjustable main jet. The adjustable main is doable. The drain plug on the bowl looks like a straight shot to the jet center. Ok, I'm fully awake now.
I get semi close on the bench sync using a tiney drill bit for a gauge. This is no replacement for a good sync tool, but this gets me close. I use the same sequence as checking the carbs while running.
Steve-o
 
The cable routing needs to have the cable run in front of the R fork tube then inbetween them. I run them through the little rectangular hoop welded to the steering head back to the junction box. Mike, I usually leave the holes facing up. The cables from the carbs I just try to let them run however I can get them to lay flattest without much more bending then what the cables are already prebent to do. I try not to cross them (run parallel)so they have a nice smooth as possible direct path from throttle to carbs.
 
quick question on the return cable...there are 2 barrels...I think I know where the lower barrel goes, but not 100% sure about the middle barrel. It looks like it just jams against the cable guide above it, but some guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
OK...progress report - Steve sent me a PM that was very helpful...basically using something small to bench synch the carbs...I was a bit surprised when I pulled them off to find that 2 carbs (diag from each other) were closed and the other 2 were open about 1/8...and it ran...like shit, but it ran. Anyway...using Steve's suggestion should get it off to a good start.

My other issue was the cable routing as my throttle didn't "snap" back as it used too. With the carbs out I took a good look at my PC work to ensure there was no binding. One question I had asked was where did the brass or upper barrel go on the return cable. When I installed initially I let it jam UNDER the cable guide...while checking the spring assisted return cable guide it dawned on me that that arm only swings down in the direction of the carbs, so the barrel in question must sit INSIDE the cable guide (which I didn't see clearly on the manual's diagram). I think I'm right, but someone please correct me if not.

I'm now guessing (barring any issues with the rebuild) that I should be good-to-go, but will know for sure over the weekend when I put the carbs back in.

Thanks to all those that replied...your assistance is greatly appreciated!
 
OK...then what pushes down on the spring loaded return cable guide? A good pic would be helpful...as the service manual fails to address this.

Thanks
 

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