getting ready to install my exhaust, i am reading about syllicone on where the down pipes meet the rest of the pipe. what is the easiest and proper way of going about doing this? do i just put a bead of sillicone around the crack or do i want it to get in between the pipes? i would think i would never get them apart if i got it in between the pipes? any other tips or tricks would be appreciated? im so excited to see what she sounds like, got the s7 going to fire up with it for the first time. just waiting on exhaust gaskets. -Rob-
kerker 4-1 installiation Q?
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4gasem
Well-Known Member
In most cases it isn't needed but IMO better safe than sorry...
Take silicon, place a dab on the pipe and smear around with finger until completely covering the pipe... 100% pure silicon will work. I always use the Permatex Copper stuff though.
When done fitting, wipe off excess with a rag or paper towel.
You may want to dry fit everything first.
Chris
Take silicon, place a dab on the pipe and smear around with finger until completely covering the pipe... 100% pure silicon will work. I always use the Permatex Copper stuff though.
When done fitting, wipe off excess with a rag or paper towel.
You may want to dry fit everything first.
Chris
maxcruiser
Well-Known Member
After a few times of installing my Kerker, I found the best way was to clean the inside of the main header pipes (if it's not new) and put a dab on your finger and coat the inside of the downpipes on the main header. This way, when fit the headpipes to the main header, you do not get a buildup on the outside of the pie connection.
I would recommend putting silicone, as without it will result in alot of leaking in the area of the exhaust.
Mike
I would recommend putting silicone, as without it will result in alot of leaking in the area of the exhaust.
Mike
RagingMain
Well-Known Member
I tried the silcone way on my 4-1 and it really never worked for me.
Instead I cut some 1.5" slits on the back of the main pipes and used some good old fashioned hose clamps to seal it up. Works like a champ.
Instead I cut some 1.5" slits on the back of the main pipes and used some good old fashioned hose clamps to seal it up. Works like a champ.
good stuff good stuff, thanks guys. this forum is awsome 
unk:
ill let you guys know how it turns out. i just dove into, my as well change my valve cover gaskets while im here job! so it might be a couple days. still have to wrap my pipes.
unk:ill let you guys know how it turns out. i just dove into, my as well change my valve cover gaskets while im here job! so it might be a couple days. still have to wrap my pipes.
unk:Here's my 2 cents worth, I never put silicone on the joints. How would you hear the leak anyway. Run the 2 - 1/2" baffle and you're done. You will be taking these off many times for different projects so if you think it's leaking you can always seal it the next time. Have fun, Spur
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KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
I had a slight leak at the joint. I used permatex copper and it sealed it up nicely.
I put it on my finger first then smeared it around the end of the recieving pipes. I let it set for a few mins, then I added some to the maiting joint then put them together.
After wiping off the excess and letting it sit for a few hours, it was gold.:clapping:
I put it on my finger first then smeared it around the end of the recieving pipes. I let it set for a few mins, then I added some to the maiting joint then put them together.
After wiping off the excess and letting it sit for a few hours, it was gold.:clapping:
I had my Kerker ceramic coated two years ago and after getting it back the back pipe joints were very loose and it caused a horrible loud and very obvious exhaust leak. I tried the silicone a couple of time and it only lasted awhile before it would start to leak again. I picked up an exhaust pipe expander from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37353
and used it on the head pipes to make it a tighter fit and it worked like a charm! No more super obvious exhaust leaks when the bike is running.
and used it on the head pipes to make it a tighter fit and it worked like a charm! No more super obvious exhaust leaks when the bike is running.
ok this is where i am at. got everything wraped (looks good) including the down pipes, i have the downpipes barely threaded (on losely) same with front (used anti-sleeze) and im tring to work the down pipes together and i am hitting my center stand/ frame. i took off the centerstand but the frame that comes down to bolt the centerstand is saying "your not going in here"? im 99% sure it's not going to fit unless i hack those mounting brackets off. am i missing something? last thing i want to do is take a saw-zall to my bitch!
jedi-
Well-Known Member
You have no choice but to hack em off.
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
Yup, but on the bright side, its more weight going by by.
Good old post.
I just had my kerker jethotted and sanded the coating off a bit less than the depth of the swagged header. Both rear pipes still take some twisting and turning to get them in when I dry fit. Do they need to fit looser to install? Or will the permatex copper lubricate enough to install? I don't want to do this twice.
Thanks
I just had my kerker jethotted and sanded the coating off a bit less than the depth of the swagged header. Both rear pipes still take some twisting and turning to get them in when I dry fit. Do they need to fit looser to install? Or will the permatex copper lubricate enough to install? I don't want to do this twice.
Thanks
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
If you can get them started you can use a rubber mallet to finish popping the header into place. Or, you can sand them some more and use silicon. I don't use silicon very often myself but I know I am going to be taking them off again at some point.
Sean
Sean
Sean, if you remember, I asked you about solving an exhaust leak. This is why.
When I bought my bike it had a nasty exhaust leak on the right side. It was so bad that it would burn the hair on my legs. I discovered it wasn't due to shoddy construction, but the previous owner not cutting the center stand tabs off high enough. The downpipes for the rear cylinders could never join properly because the collector was hitting one of the tabs. After I fixed that, the pipes mated perfectly.
When I bought my bike it had a nasty exhaust leak on the right side. It was so bad that it would burn the hair on my legs. I discovered it wasn't due to shoddy construction, but the previous owner not cutting the center stand tabs off high enough. The downpipes for the rear cylinders could never join properly because the collector was hitting one of the tabs. After I fixed that, the pipes mated perfectly.
