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mikemax04

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Bought a couple of Hella Driving Lights and wanted a different look than what's out there for over 100 years now. Took the assembly out to see what would be possible. Came up with a not so easy bracket out of two pieces of aluminum sheeting that I pop riveted together. The two holes on the right correspond with the two on top that held the original light. In the middle is only one hole for both lights. The lights came with a C bracket which screws on each side of the light, allowing vertical adjustment, and the hole in the center of the bracket allows for horizontal adjustment. I'm sure there are many different ways to do things and finding what works for you is just a matter of the type of bracket you make for mounting anything.

The bracket has enough cushion to it to take some of the road shock out but is sturdy enough not to let the lights vibrate. I ran a separate fused wire from the battery so there would be plenty of juice to work the lights. Bought a relay from a local auto parts dealer for $5 and wired it all together. Instead of wiring it like it was, I changed it to my liking. The handle switch is now just an on and off switch. In the down position the lights are off and in the up, they both are on. I like an off switch for being able to work on the bike without the headlight being on for no good reason. That's just me, I'm not recommending this setup to anyone.

Some light harnesses go for $50. Mine ran less than $10 and is sooooo simple to do yourself. The only confusing thing might be the relay to many. It's nothing more than a heavy duty switch, activated by the switch on the bike. It's also clearly marked so if you can read, you can do it. More detailed pics on request.
 

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I do like it. What is the filler piece between the top of the top light and the round part of the instrument cowl? It's filled in nicely..
 
wfcall said:
I do like it. What is the filler piece between the top of the top light and the round part of the instrument cowl? It's filled in nicely..
It's a very light piece of polished and clear coated aluminum that was trim for something else. Might even have saved it from a fridge I had replaced. I never throw anything away that just might be usable somewhere.
 
Here's a close-up shot Rusty. The top light's "C" bracket points down and the bottom bracket points up. All three (upper and lower brackets plus mounting bracket) are bolted together with one nut and bolt. In this setup, the lights can't be placed any closer together and suit me just fine. Whitney carries chromed light brackets that bolt to the down tubes which could be used. Two sets of brackets for two lights but I would place rubber tape inside the clamps so they don't mar the tubes.
 

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I love that look, thanks for the posting. I'm either going with this setup or a 7" led. Haven‘t decided yet.
 
^ Good point Brian.
KJ Shover has a similar setup on his bike.
I'm sure there is more info about his posted somewhere and he's around fairly often so I'm sure he would answer question if needed.
 
Bought a couple of Hella Driving Lights and wanted a different look than what's out there for over 100 years now. Took the assembly out to see what would be possible. Came up with a not so easy bracket out of two pieces of aluminum sheeting that I pop riveted together. The two holes on the right correspond with the two on top that held the original light. In the middle is only one hole for both lights. The lights came with a C bracket which screws on each side of the light, allowing vertical adjustment, and the hole in the center of the bracket allows for horizontal adjustment. I'm sure there are many different ways to do things and finding what works for you is just a matter of the type of bracket you make for mounting anything.

The bracket has enough cushion to it to take some of the road shock out but is sturdy enough not to let the lights vibrate. I ran a separate fused wire from the battery so there would be plenty of juice to work the lights. Bought a relay from a local auto parts dealer for $5 and wired it all together. Instead of wiring it like it was, I changed it to my liking. The handle switch is now just an on and off switch. In the down position the lights are off and in the up, they both are on. I like an off switch for being able to work on the bike without the headlight being on for no good reason. That's just me, I'm not recommending this setup to anyone.

Some light harnesses go for $50. Mine ran less than $10 and is sooooo simple to do yourself. The only confusing thing might be the relay to many. It's nothing more than a heavy duty switch, activated by the switch on the bike. It's also clearly marked so if you can read, you can do it. More detailed pics on request.

If it were me, I would have wired one for low beam, both for high beam and an on/off switch wired to ground....

Here's my headlight switch....

1175199_10200302301752164_17441425_n.jpg
 
It's good to have both beam on. I rewired mine that way as I'm only using 35W for both beams.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
 

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