Mini Turn Signals

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

swilson

Active Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
Location
VICTORIA BC CANADA
Hey Guys, I'm trying to find some aluminum mini turn signals for my 05 vmax, preferably clear or smoked glass ones. Any advise where to get these? Are they easy to install? I see this mod on most vmaxs out there but can't seem to find the product on Google... Thanks!
 
sorry i didnt answer your pm dude,

i got mine on ebay but ive searched and cant find anymore. Let me warn you they are supposedly billet but arent, they scratch INCREDIBLY easy, and when you mount the back ones you will need to trim off about a half inch of thread or they will scratch the crap out of your back fender!

They look cool just wish they were made better.

UFO sells them, dont know if there quality is any better

http://www.ufocycles.com/UFO_Page.php?title=UFO Vmax Turn Signals&type=product
 
Search around for the post from Remeber Me (me) on wiring becaues you will blow many fuses for the front signals till you figure out how to connect the wires (wire colors don't match).
 
If you can cancel your order you can get the exact same signals here for about 1/2 that price.

http://www.ridegear.com/rg/item/F-5274/Lockhart-Phillips/Aluminum-Marker-Lights.html

We have run them for years and they work well but the bulbs will burn out if you let them run a long time with air movement to keep them cool.

They look even better and brighter when we chrome them!

Oh, and by the way, it's illegal in almost every state to have amber running lights on the rear of ANY vehicle. You can have red lenses and have them blink as turn signals and stay lit as running lights but not amber.

Sean Morley
 
Not only don't the wire colors match the bike, mine had the wire colors mixed up on the turn signals themselves. best to check them all with a voltage source before wiring them to the bike. I think everybody is getting these turn signals from the same source so quality is about the same on all of them. Plus, they're not made for just the Vmax which explains the long bolts. Gotta love the Chinese.
 
Most of these mini signals, even tho' they have two wires, are also grounded to the body itself on one wire so it's best to determine with a meter which wire has coninuity with ground before wiring them up. It will be the wire with the lowest ohm reading if the bulb is in and the only one with continuity if the bulb is not in.

The factory signals don't have this issue and the wireing polarity doesn't matter.

Rusty
 
i bought some of these from e-bay, and i am in the process of fitting them.

they don't really fit all that well. the shank is too small for the max holes, and as mentioned above, too long for the rear.

it was a pain to trim them off a bit.

i'm working out the wiring now.

they do look better IMO though.

what i did in the rear, is from the blinker in used a zinc coated fender washer, a large rubber washer, then a rubber grommet to take up the space between the shank and the hole. then another rubber washer, another zinc flat, then the lock washer and nut.

in the front, the hole is smaller, so i left out the grommet. no trimming is required here.

i'm thinking the rubber washers are messing with the ground though. i'm going to remove the inner one.

i am having trouble getting the running light-blinker sorted out.

i can get running or blinker, but not both.

time to get the tester out i guess.


billetsignal.jpg




billetsignal4.jpg
 
Great nfo guys... does anyone know if there are ant 3 wire mini lights on teh market? If not... perhaps we've found a niche? :)
 

Attachments

  • super_led.jpg
    super_led.jpg
    72.5 KB
Neil, where did you get the relay? Is it a 2-wire or 3-wire relay?

Mark
#1098
 
Perhaps try using the ELFR-P Programmable Electronic Flasher Relay found on the same site. It looks like one could progam the control of blink rate etc etc. Video here:http://www.customled.com/PRODUCTS/FLASHER_RELAY/clrelaypro.wmv :thumbs up:


You could...it's just sooo much easier using resistors and yanking the dash bulb. My main pet peeve is no blinkers after the turn is over!

I followed someones grandmother around the world to the left once....NOT FUN! :biglaugh:

:cheers:

Neil
 
ok, i pulled the inside rubber washers off and sorted out the wiring, but now i have an intermitten fast blink.

sometimes they blink fine, then bam they take off and start blinking faster. it seems worse on the right side, but both sides do it.

any thoughts?

weak relay? it never happened with the stockers

i'm starting to think this really isn't worth all the trouble, just for looks.
 
ok, i pulled the inside rubber washers off and sorted out the wiring, but now i have an intermitten fast blink.

sometimes they blink fine, then bam they take off and start blinking faster. it seems worse on the right side, but both sides do it.

any thoughts?

weak relay? it never happened with the stockers

i'm starting to think this really isn't worth all the trouble, just for looks.


Are your signals led or regular bulbs?

If you have regular incandescent bulbs, you could try to find higher wattage replacements in the 25-27 watt range. Aftermarket blinkers mostly use low wattage bulbs (5-10W) that do not draw enough current to make the stock relay work correctly.

I know Jegs and places like that carry 25w bayonet type bulbs most of the time.

Sounds like a connection problem if they work correctly sometimes and then go crazy.

If they are led, you need the load balancers at least, and if that still doesn't work, you can pull the dash indicator bulb out.

:cheers:

Neil
 
they are regular bulbs. they are crammed in the housing, so i don't think i could get larger(higer wattage) ones to fit

so you are saying i need to add resistance? what does removing the dash indicator do?

thanks for your help.......................Neal

Are your signals led or regular bulbs?

If you have regular incandescent bulbs, you could try to find higher wattage replacements in the 25-27 watt range. Aftermarket blinkers mostly use low wattage bulbs (5-10W) that do not draw enough current to make the stock relay work correctly.

I know Jegs and places like that carry 25w bayonet type bulbs most of the time.

Sounds like a connection problem if they work correctly sometimes and then go crazy.

If they are led, you need the load balancers at least, and if that still doesn't work, you can pull the dash indicator bulb out.

:cheers:

Neil
 
Back
Top