More Questions about the carb situation

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HDKILA

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I installed the clean and kreemed tank today. I then proceeded and did the pauls peashooter to clean the carbs. I went on a ride and it was better and sometimes there was no problems and the bike pulled through all the way until redline but a few times it did breakup a little above 6-7K rpms.

Is the peashooter method enough to clean those carbs of the rust that was flowing in there?

On a sidenote I have installed the follwing items as well the last few weeks:

1. fuel filter
2. air filter
3. spark plugs
4. had fuel tank cleaned and coated

Let me know what you guys think I should try next...btw I had to put 87 octane in as well today...not sure if that matters or not.

Abe
 
You are going to have to keep cleaning them out until the sediment is gone, otherwise you will still have problems. The peashooter works really well, but until you stop the source of your sediment you will still have ongoing issues.
 
The only way you can get it out 100% is to dissassemble the carbs and use carb cleaner and compressed air in every hole. I would blow out the fuel inlet of each carb from the inside out. There's a small screen in each inlet.
 
Been there done that. You won't realize how much smoother the bike can run until those carbs are truly clean.
 
You are going to have to keep cleaning them out until the sediment is gone, otherwise you will still have problems. The peashooter works really well, but until you stop the source of your sediment you will still have ongoing issues.

The source had been stopped. I got the tank cleaned and coated.
 
The only way you can get it out 100% is to dissassemble the carbs and use carb cleaner and compressed air in every hole. I would blow out the fuel inlet of each carb from the inside out. There's a small screen in each inlet.

anything i need to know before tearing into the carbs? I can't screw things up by taking it all apart can I?
 
Just split them into pairs. Here's the procedure to do that. The 2nd part shows how to split the pairs up but I wouldn't worry about that unless you want to totally remove sync linkages and coasting enrichers.

Break into pairs first by separating left side from right.

To do this remove the front and rear brackets (4 screws each). Next, disconnect middle fuel rail "T" by pinching and sliding small retainer clip out of the way. Then, remove small e-clip holding choke rod to #3 carb linkage right-front). Finally, flip carbs upside down and remove e-clip holding sync rod on. There is a clip each side. remove left side clip since that's easiest to get to. Now you should be able to break into pairs.

Now, put one pair aside. Only work on one pair at a time! To separate pairs into individuals should be easy now. Just remove two screws from one side of the bottom bracket. On the same side remove two screws from the top bracket. Next, remove carb to carb fuel rail. Now, loosen small screws holding choke forks on and slide the rod out. You'll need to remove the Phillips screw holding the choke thumb lever on. Each carb where the choke rod goes into has a small plastic bushing. Remove these. Best to use a Gladlock bag to keep the small parts in. Last thing you need to do is loosen the sync screws and pull the carbs apart. Watch for the small sync springs. I would take a digital picture so you know how the sync linkages go back together. Here's a link to a picture in case you don't have a camera.

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/merfizle/vmaxforum/9-15-06005.jpg
 
Just split them into pairs. Here's the procedure to do that. The 2nd part shows how to split the pairs up but I wouldn't worry about that unless you want to totally remove sync linkages and coasting enrichers.

Break into pairs first by separating left side from right.

To do this remove the front and rear brackets (4 screws each). Next, disconnect middle fuel rail "T" by pinching and sliding small retainer clip out of the way. Then, remove small e-clip holding choke rod to #3 carb linkage right-front). Finally, flip carbs upside down and remove e-clip holding sync rod on. There is a clip each side. remove left side clip since that's easiest to get to. Now you should be able to break into pairs.

Now, put one pair aside. Only work on one pair at a time! To separate pairs into individuals should be easy now. Just remove two screws from one side of the bottom bracket. On the same side remove two screws from the top bracket. Next, remove carb to carb fuel rail. Now, loosen small screws holding choke forks on and slide the rod out. You'll need to remove the Phillips screw holding the choke thumb lever on. Each carb where the choke rod goes into has a small plastic bushing. Remove these. Best to use a Gladlock bag to keep the small parts in. Last thing you need to do is loosen the sync screws and pull the carbs apart. Watch for the small sync springs. I would take a digital picture so you know how the sync linkages go back together. Here's a link to a picture in case you don't have a camera.


Wheres the link?...and thanks alot!

Do you think a can of compressed air will do the trick once the carbs are apart?
 
Bump! I edited my last post and added the link.
 
It's not strong enough. I blow about 80 psi in mine. Although less than that if doing the shotgun.
 
It's not strong enough. I blow about 80 psi in mine. Although less than that if doing the shotgun.


OK I tore the carbs apart cleaned em out really good and took the bike for a ride....

It's better but there is still SOME (not much) hesitation in the 6K plus range.

I feel like I have done EVERYTHING already (even though I know I have not).

I still have not synched the carbs...could that be the problem?

Where do I go next?
 
Yep, sync. They will always be at least a little out of sync after removing carbs.
 
I've never heard of that gauge. As long as the hoses have restrictors and can fit on the manfold ports it should be fine.
 
Yep, that will work. You'll have to do two carbs at a time.
 
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