Mulitiple transmission issues- second gear & segment

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Robbie97vmax

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Jul 16, 2012
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Location
Lethbridge AB, CAN
So I've got a '97 with ~20k miles that i picked up this summer. I rode it for about a month before second gear started skipping/slipping under full throttle at high rpm's. After researching here I concluded undercutting the tranny through Sean's shop this winter is the way to go. I continued to ride (gingerly in 2nd) after this conclusion and eventually 5th gear became very hard (required a lot of force) to get into and then impossible during the same ride. Then a few miles later 5th was available and it would not shift lower than 2nd which is how it sits now. So upon more research I figure I also need a new upgraded gear selector segment (at least). So my questions are:

a) Besides the upgraded selector segment, will I likely need anything else not included in Sean's undercut kit to get my transmission rebuilt and back on the road?

b) Listed on Sean's rebuild list is the option of having the transmission rebuilt in his shop rather than just having the gears machined there. What state of assembly does the engine/transmission need to be in when it arrives at Sean's shop for this option?

c)Would it be possible to have the shop replace the gear selector segment at the same time as the rebuild or should I tackle it myself?

All input and suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance for your help.

Robbie
 
changing the shift segment to the new version is easy to do and will get you back on the road. so it is poping out of second or just weird to shift in to gears???
if not pooping out then id say go with segment change and see whats what then......
 
Agreed, you could try to do the segment work yourself first and see if that fixes it. I doubt it but it will at least get it back to shifting. BUT, most of the time we suggest replacing all the shift forks and INCLUDING the shift drum. We've actually been a bit more lenient on the drum replacement provided the drum doesn't have any major damage. The segment is on the end of the drum and accesible with only clutch basket removal (engine staying in the bike).

All the side covers have to be removed to split the cases but the heads (and even valve covers) don't have to be removed so no messing with the top end needed. Doesn't matter much how much you take apart as we can get it back together. You can probably do the work yourself as it's not really all that difficult.

Sean
 
Changing the shift segment is not that difficult, you will have to remove the clutch/basket assy to gain access however, hey Sean, I also have a 97 and was wondering what year the upgraded segment went into production Maxes?..........Tom.
 
Ok Thanks for the info guys. Sean I will be contacting you soon for the shift segment. To answer Tugla's question, yes under hard acceleration second gear does jump out momentary but jumps back in when the throttle is closed. From what I understand this is the typical Vmax second gear issue requiring splitting the case and mailing my gears to Sean. I will go ahead and change the shift segment and see where that gets me however I am quite sure I will get the undercutting done while it is winter. I want this baby running in tip top shape for the summer. Since my first ride on it (or any vmax) last July I've had a powerful addiction to it that can only be cured by MORE VMAX!
 
i got a new shift segment, i got everything for an 07 vmax pins, sement, and new bolt. went to put it in today, and it's like the pins are to long and wont allow the segment to sit back in like it's supposed to. after i take the segment out, there is that litte wheel behind it with a smaller diameter pin but it's fairly long, and it doesn't work with the new segment. is there something i didn't order and should have?? my old segment is still good, no missing pins, so i put the old back in to get it home i can't take up the bay in buddys garage, as that his own garage he is self employed. do i need to get that little wheel behind the segment for an 07 as well? i matched up the old pins to the new pins, same length. and the 5 pins DO NOT sit flush as on the old segment. i am at a loss.
 
i got a new shift segment, i got everything for an 07 vmax pins, sement, and new bolt. went to put it in today, and it's like the pins are to long and wont allow the segment to sit back in like it's supposed to. after i take the segment out, there is that litte wheel behind it with a smaller diameter pin but it's fairly long, and it doesn't work with the new segment. is there something i didn't order and should have?? my old segment is still good, no missing pins, so i put the old back in to get it home i can't take up the bay in buddys garage, as that his own garage he is self employed. do i need to get that little wheel behind the segment for an 07 as well? i matched up the old pins to the new pins, same length. and the 5 pins DO NOT sit flush as on the old segment. i am at a loss.

the stopper plate is what i'm reffering to behind the segment. that little pin is either to short to go into all three, or the other 5 pins are to long and won't allow the segment to seat in all the back to the stopper plate. the pins keep it out about 3/16".
 
Pics of the old vs the new? all parts involved.

no pics. i can get pics of the new segment, but i put the old back in the bike so i could ride it. being a 97 it has the old style segment with the cage that holds the pins, mine actually looked good, no bends and all pins are still there. basically i got the updated segment, and the 5 pins plus the longer pin that go into the segment. laying the segment face down and drop the pins into place in the correct position the pins all stick out past the end of the segment that is supposed to sit against the stopper plate. i layed both of my segments side by side face down, and 5 of the 6 pins were flush with the back of the old segment, except for the 6th pin that is longer than the rest. i looked up the parts and compared the part numbers from 97 to 07, the short 5 pins have different part numbers, i think they shipped me the wrong pins, i would say they would be shorter for the new segment in order for it to seat all the way back against the stopper plate like it's supposed to. suppose i could try grinding those pins shorter so they belong where they should be, for only a buck a piece, and i have 10 of them counting the old pins that look good, i really have nothing to lose. just have to measure with a set calipers, and do a little at a time.
 
Yes, you can cut down the pins and save the wait. They should have been longer. I think you can maybe even use one of the original "flush" pins as the protruding pin now and grind 5 others down to be flush.
 
Yes, you can cut down the pins and save the wait. They should have been longer. I think you can maybe even use one of the original "flush" pins as the protruding pin now and grind 5 others down to be flush.

they stop the segment from seating against the stopper plate. and the smaller pin that goes into the stopper plate (smaller diameter) just kinda wiggles back and forth and does absolutely nothing. but what i can tell from my old segment that smaller pin goes into the stopper plate, and that stopper plate also moves. because neutral is between the lower 2 ribs. i ran it threw all the gears before re-assembly to make sure nothing moved on me when i stuck the old segment back on.
 
i also found a post on here about not getting the clutch cage lined up with the oil pump drive gear correctly.... and i'm glad i did because i could have easily found myself putting it back together incorrectly. took me 4 times to get it lined up and it dropped back in another inch at-least. also tried the rotella oil this time... wow what a difference shifting, and finding neutral after it's warm.
 

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