My max is dead

[Palli]

I was going to start my max yesterday just to hear the sound during these winter months.. But when i hit the starter button i heard a little bang maybe more like a poof sound and now every thing is dead. When i switch the bike on i have no lights in the dash, no fuel pump sound.
I do hear a very faint sound above the battery (the seat is off) like a computer processor you know tic tic sound.

Im thinking that this is a blown fuse but i checked all the fuses i could find and could not find a broken one. I am no expert in electrical stuff and there is probably a fuse some where.

I do have the Clymer manual so you could refer to that for an explanation.

Thanx

 

[hubeerjw]

There are two fuse banks, the one with 4 (or 5) is up by the coolant overflow tank and the other is on the left side under the seat near the coils and starter solenoid. I'm guessing you blew the main fuse from the sounds of things. You might want to do some trouble shooting to see why it blew in the first place. Hopefully a mouse didn't get in there and creat a short.

 

[Noxx72]

First you've blown your 30A main most likely. Second the "tic-tic" you describe is most likely an arc. Sounds like Hube has it right and you may have a chewed wire.

 

[lankeeyankee]

One word of advice to those that still are running a 30AMP main fuse... CHANGE IT TO A YELLOW 20AMP!!

30AMP is way to high and it will burn wires under a short compared to a 20 will just pop..

Just some advice to those before you have to rewire from front to back I had to due to a short.

If you have no electrical problems a 20AMP is big enough for the main fuse, I have been running a 20A now for over 3 yrs..

Would you rather find the short and replace a fuse
Or replace a burnt wire and replace the fuse?

 

[Bill Seward]

If it's a steady tic tic tic, it probably is the fuel pump...
At least that's what mine sounds like.

I don't have any idea if the fuel pump is protected by the main fuse.

 

[maleko89]

One word of advice to those that still are running a 30AMP main fuse... CHANGE IT TO A YELLOW 20AMP!!

30AMP is way to high and it will burn wires under a short compared to a 20 will just pop..

Just some advice to those before you have to rewire from front to back I had to due to a short.

If you have no electrical problems a 20AMP is big enough for the main fuse, I have been running a 20A now for over 3 yrs..

Would you rather find the short and replace a fuse
Or replace a burnt wire and replace the fuse?

Good idea Lankee. I'm going to put a 20A on my auto float checker too. :rofl_200:

 

[lankeeyankee]

Good idea Lankee. I'm going to put a 20A on my auto float checker too. :rofl_200:

a 20AMP is more then enough for the main fuse.. Now if your running hand warmer grips and 2 100,000,000 candlepower spot lights then ya may need to bump it up to a 25..

I had a short on the rear turn signal wire which burnt all the way up the wiring harness before it popped the 30AMP fuse..
30 is way to big!!

 

[RazoR333]

Palli,...did you find out what the prob was?...
Thx for the Info Lankee,...I had the same thing happin to me when I changed my turn signals to LED.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Palli,...did you find out what the prob was?...
Thx for the Info Lankee,...I had the same thing happin to me when I changed my turn signals to LED.

The problem with converting over to LED from filiment style is that the voltage can circulate around and cause shorts

 

[Palli]

I have not figured the problem out yet because the bike is in my parents garage (since i do not have a garage :biglaugh: )

i will check this out this weekend and hopefully figure it out...

I will keep you posted, and thanks for the tips.

 

[95spfldmax]

The problem with converting over to LED from filiment style is that the voltage can circulate around and cause shorts

Can you explain in further detail??

 

[vmax626]

The problem with converting over to LED from filiment style is that the voltage can circulate around and cause shorts

does that mean that the current becomes static and flows back through the system :ummm: I am thinking about switching to l.e.d.`s but I thought that grounding prevented that.
Someone please enlighten me on this :confused2:

 

[maleko89]

There are generally two problems when switching to LED signals. The first is with the stock flasher relay since it needs the bulbs to have a certain load to flash. Either the light's won't flash or they will flash too quickly. I think Lankee is right, other things could happen because of the lack of load. Solution here is to get an aftermarket 2-wire flasher relay. Most can be had for under $20. If you're running the early model relay just wire the new one before your stock relay. The reasoning behind this is the early models have the starting cutoff relay and flash relay in one unit.

The second problem is with having only one indicator light on the dash. All four signals will flash at the same time because of the same bulb load problem. The solution here is basically three pieces of wire and two diodes. Cut the two wires going to the indicator bulb and make sure you leave enough wire. Solder the 2 diodes together at one end along with a piece of wire. This end is soldered to one of the light bulb leads. The other bulb lead wires should go to ground. now, hook two wires from harness to other side of diode wires.

 

[95spfldmax]

There are generally two problems when switching to LED signals. The first is with the stock flasher relay since it needs the bulbs to have a certain load to flash. Either the light's won't flash or they will flash too quickly.

I knew about the lack of resistance when switching over making the relay unhappy.
I just wired in a set of rear LED signals for a friend with a HD Dyna yesterday and his kit came with a ceramic resistor. LED's came on and stayed on until I wired in the resistor. Totally expected that.
Opposite of hooking your trailor to your car and not upgrading to a HD (heavy duty in this case not Hardly Davidson) and having the flashers blink too fast (more bulbs/resistance).

So are you installing diodes to eliminate current reversing to ground somehow? I don't understand about the threat of "shorting".

And I have a pretty good understanding of electrical concepts due to my profession.

Thanks for any additional help with my udumacation though. Always more to learn......:ummm::ummm::ummm:

 

[maleko89]

Mike, diodes prevent the hazard flashing of signal lamps. Reason is both leads to indicator lamp are a ground wire depending on if signaling left or right. Even with stock lamps you can see the other side signaling a little bit.

 

[vmax626]

There are generally two problems when switching to LED signals. The first is with the stock flasher relay since it needs the bulbs to have a certain load to flash. Either the light's won't flash or they will flash too quickly. I think Lankee is right, other things could happen because of the lack of load. Solution here is to get an aftermarket 2-wire flasher relay. Most can be had for under $20. If you're running the early model relay just wire the new one before your stock relay. The reasoning behind this is the early models have the starting cutoff relay and flash relay in one unit.

The second problem is with having only one indicator light on the dash. All four signals will flash at the same time because of the same bulb load problem. The solution here is basically three pieces of wire and two diodes. Cut the two wires going to the indicator bulb and make sure you leave enough wire. Solder the 2 diodes together at one end along with a piece of wire. This end is soldered to one of the light bulb leads. The other bulb lead wires should go to ground. now, hook two wires from harness to other side of diode wires.

thank you mark, Ithink I understand what you are ttalking about .since there is an empty space on the dash a 2nd indicator light can be installed and run seperate flashers from the directional switch
with the diodes used on each side ??would that work with L.E.D`s ???

 

[maleko89]

Yep, assuming you had an aftermarket flasher relay. You wouldn't even need the diodes. Just snip the dark green wire to the bulb. Run the wire from the harness to your 2nd indicator light...either bulb wire. Then, the other can be mounted to black ground wire fastened to back of instrument cluster. The 2nd wire on the old bulb would be fastened to the same ground.

 

[Palli]

Well i figured out the problem but i must have beaten with a dumb dumb stick :ummm: because all i had to do was tighten a screw witch hold the cable to the battery... Some how it got loose. But on the bright side this was nothing serious and did not cost me anything..

 

[95spfldmax]

Well i figured out the problem but i must have beaten with a dumb dumb stick :ummm: because all i had to do was tighten a screw witch hold the cable to the battery... Some how it got loose. But on the bright side this was nothing serious and did not cost me anything..

Don't feel too bad. Stuff happens. Learning from it is the important thing. And like you said it was something easy and cheap. Those are the best ones........