RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
So...the Vmax spoiled me into requiring everything be fast. Among my other toys are a 1988 Suzuki LT230 QuadRunner, a 2007 Baja WR65 minibike, and a 2005 Yamaha RX-Warrior snowmobile. The sled is already stupid fast(essentially a R1 motor with a reduction gear in the case to make it clutchable) so that was good. I'm lucky in the little thumper 230 quad starts, and it's by any definition a "beater" quad.
So the minibike was up for the "Max" treatment. I picked it up totally stock off craigslist about a year ago for $250, virtually new, totally stock. Still had the 12mph governor. Originally it had a Chinese clone of a Honda GX200 motor...they are so close that many parts for a Honda will fit on it's Chinese counterpart. It ran great, despite the abuse it has taken(hydrolocked dozens of times from WOT runs into way-too-deep puddles, it's been downed/crashed dozens of times, ect). Always started on the first pull and ran like a top. It was a 196cc motor with a claimed 6.5hp, going through a total of a 10:1 gear reduction between the crank and rear wheel, plain ole centrifugal clutch. With the governor adjusted(not totally bypassed), I got about 30mph out of it reliably. However, some bigger hills or soggy/sandy terrain bogged it down and it just didn't quite have the nuts to power through it....you'd need a good running start, and sometimes even that wasn't enough. I started browsing craigslist for old engines from snowblowers, generators, ect.
Then the deal of the century popped up. A brand new Briggs and Stratton 1450 INTEK(super heavy duty 11hp) series with electric start and regulated DC output came up. $120. That's an $800 motor new. The ad specified that the drastic price cut was due to "some shipping damage". I called, and he said it had been dropped in shipping and had a crack in the oil pan, otherwise it was still NIB. I went to look, it was easily fixed, so I bought it. A little JB Weld over the crack and good to go, doesn't leak a drop. Of couse, it runs great, it had never even had gas in it before.
So I went to work tearing apart the bike. Out went the old motor, the drive system, and the back wheel. The new motor physically fit into the frame, but just barely(this motor is 305cc, the old was 196). Had to extend the engine mounting plate forward (a piece of 1" angle iron worked great) a bit since the front mounting holes hung over the edge between the downtubes.
Once the new motor was mounted in the frame, I had to go about making the jackshaft plate fit(it drove from a 10T clutch to a 20T to 10T jackshaft, to a 50T rear sprocket, for a total 10:1. The jackshaft was on a rectangular plate that bolted to the motor. Oops, the yellow oil fill cap was in the way of the plate mounting properly. Had to lose the cap that protruded from the casing about an inch, and just use some of that cookie-dough epoxy crap to seal it(can still add oil in the long dipstick tube). Got the plate mounted up, and had to mount the new $150 1" bore clutch inboard to make it line up.
Except the motor sat a bit farther left than it used to(even though it was slid over as far as the frame would allow), so the rear sprocket no longer lined up with the output of the jackshaft. Popped 3 washers between the sprocket spokes and the actual sprocket to move it over about 1/2"....perfect. Some half-links extended the chain a bit to fit.
The motor wouldn't fit in the frame with the gas tank and muffler where they were, so now I had to find somewhere for the gas tank. More angle iron made a little "luggage rack" for it, bolted to the crossbar that supports the seat. I garbage-picked a muffler off an old snowblower which happened to work out perfectly, orienting the exhaust more out, rather than up.
A midget battery(I believe it was for a 110cc kids quad) is nestled under the engine cylinder, powering the electric start and lights.
It's currently now at about a 7:1 total reduction, since the only clutch I could find came only in a 14T variety. Adjusting the governor spring to it's fastest setting, I get about 36mph out of it, and it gets there fast. And on one wheel if you want it to---it wheelies great. And it's only brake is a drum on the back, but it still works good.....it'll lock the wheel up on pavement no problem.
So far it's outrun a 110cc pit bike with transmission/clutch, a 90cc 2 stroke kids quad(hopped up for performance), and my 230 quad(handlily).
Does pretty good on gas also...from what I've measured so far it's about 55mpg(there's a bicycle speedometer on it, JB welded a magnet to the rim).
It's not just a minibike any more....it's the Vmax of minibikes! You can see the battery peeking out there in the last one. Of course I'm way too cheap to buy a battery cable, so I made one out of two 10ga wires. Cranks and starts great. One revolution every time.
Another note...in the second picture the rear wheel chain adjuster used to be an eyebolt. The axle bolt came loose, I hit the gas, and the torque pulled the eyebolt out a ways. 8^O It was 3/8" stainless.
In case you're wondering, those sweet custom pegs are from a steel canoe paddle. The original pegs snapped off when I landed a jump while standing on the pegs. These still break it it's downed at high speed, but there's one screw that holds them in place over the old nub, so if they snap off I just cut a new piece of tubing and slip it on.
So the minibike was up for the "Max" treatment. I picked it up totally stock off craigslist about a year ago for $250, virtually new, totally stock. Still had the 12mph governor. Originally it had a Chinese clone of a Honda GX200 motor...they are so close that many parts for a Honda will fit on it's Chinese counterpart. It ran great, despite the abuse it has taken(hydrolocked dozens of times from WOT runs into way-too-deep puddles, it's been downed/crashed dozens of times, ect). Always started on the first pull and ran like a top. It was a 196cc motor with a claimed 6.5hp, going through a total of a 10:1 gear reduction between the crank and rear wheel, plain ole centrifugal clutch. With the governor adjusted(not totally bypassed), I got about 30mph out of it reliably. However, some bigger hills or soggy/sandy terrain bogged it down and it just didn't quite have the nuts to power through it....you'd need a good running start, and sometimes even that wasn't enough. I started browsing craigslist for old engines from snowblowers, generators, ect.
Then the deal of the century popped up. A brand new Briggs and Stratton 1450 INTEK(super heavy duty 11hp) series with electric start and regulated DC output came up. $120. That's an $800 motor new. The ad specified that the drastic price cut was due to "some shipping damage". I called, and he said it had been dropped in shipping and had a crack in the oil pan, otherwise it was still NIB. I went to look, it was easily fixed, so I bought it. A little JB Weld over the crack and good to go, doesn't leak a drop. Of couse, it runs great, it had never even had gas in it before.
So I went to work tearing apart the bike. Out went the old motor, the drive system, and the back wheel. The new motor physically fit into the frame, but just barely(this motor is 305cc, the old was 196). Had to extend the engine mounting plate forward (a piece of 1" angle iron worked great) a bit since the front mounting holes hung over the edge between the downtubes.
Once the new motor was mounted in the frame, I had to go about making the jackshaft plate fit(it drove from a 10T clutch to a 20T to 10T jackshaft, to a 50T rear sprocket, for a total 10:1. The jackshaft was on a rectangular plate that bolted to the motor. Oops, the yellow oil fill cap was in the way of the plate mounting properly. Had to lose the cap that protruded from the casing about an inch, and just use some of that cookie-dough epoxy crap to seal it(can still add oil in the long dipstick tube). Got the plate mounted up, and had to mount the new $150 1" bore clutch inboard to make it line up.
Except the motor sat a bit farther left than it used to(even though it was slid over as far as the frame would allow), so the rear sprocket no longer lined up with the output of the jackshaft. Popped 3 washers between the sprocket spokes and the actual sprocket to move it over about 1/2"....perfect. Some half-links extended the chain a bit to fit.
The motor wouldn't fit in the frame with the gas tank and muffler where they were, so now I had to find somewhere for the gas tank. More angle iron made a little "luggage rack" for it, bolted to the crossbar that supports the seat. I garbage-picked a muffler off an old snowblower which happened to work out perfectly, orienting the exhaust more out, rather than up.
A midget battery(I believe it was for a 110cc kids quad) is nestled under the engine cylinder, powering the electric start and lights.
It's currently now at about a 7:1 total reduction, since the only clutch I could find came only in a 14T variety. Adjusting the governor spring to it's fastest setting, I get about 36mph out of it, and it gets there fast. And on one wheel if you want it to---it wheelies great. And it's only brake is a drum on the back, but it still works good.....it'll lock the wheel up on pavement no problem.
So far it's outrun a 110cc pit bike with transmission/clutch, a 90cc 2 stroke kids quad(hopped up for performance), and my 230 quad(handlily).
Does pretty good on gas also...from what I've measured so far it's about 55mpg(there's a bicycle speedometer on it, JB welded a magnet to the rim).
It's not just a minibike any more....it's the Vmax of minibikes! You can see the battery peeking out there in the last one. Of course I'm way too cheap to buy a battery cable, so I made one out of two 10ga wires. Cranks and starts great. One revolution every time.
Another note...in the second picture the rear wheel chain adjuster used to be an eyebolt. The axle bolt came loose, I hit the gas, and the torque pulled the eyebolt out a ways. 8^O It was 3/8" stainless.
In case you're wondering, those sweet custom pegs are from a steel canoe paddle. The original pegs snapped off when I landed a jump while standing on the pegs. These still break it it's downed at high speed, but there's one screw that holds them in place over the old nub, so if they snap off I just cut a new piece of tubing and slip it on.