My newest issue....really won't start

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davesax36

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Nov 10, 2011
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Location
Arlington, VA
Key- on
KS-on
Battery tender jr-plugged in.
I get -- no lights, no dash, no crank. Smoking battery after about a minute of leaving the switches in those positions while fiddling with stuff.

I pulled the battery this morning. It's full of liquid. It's a year old and has never had to run the bike for more than fifteen minutes. Never turned the rear wheel or even been in gear. Not a lot of work. I've had it on the tender off and on during that time. It's this battery:
http://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...Yamaha/V--Max-VMX12F/1200CC-1985-to-2007.aspx
cleardot.gif




Things I did notice:
It sounded like it was going to try to run the v-boost a couple times, but all it did was rev up a little servo (didn't even move the cable) and then I got the super fast click and nothing. No fuel pump, very dim neutral light until the click. Almost like it was all running off the charger.

The rest:
I just put on a fresh set of carbs from Danny. I'd been running the fuel pump/v-boost cycle to get things filled up for the twenty minutes prior to the metal clunk at the press of the start button that started all this. It cranked just fine three days in the last week, but hasn't started in months because I haven't had carbs on there. I'm sure there's more, but your thoughts are welcomed. I've got brand new stuff I want to try out, and it's getting really frustrating to chase problems around this bike.
 
oooh, smoking wire. I never thought about that. It did smell like sulfur (eggs), but I was thinking I might have smashed some wires when putting my tank back in. I'll work on that later.
 
Some extra work for sure but may not be a bad idea to retrace your path Dave....some big power in that area....solenoid wires, battery wires, etc.

Maybe a temporary fuel supply would come in handy for testing at different stages. No need to button everything back up till you're sure it's fixed.
 
It should take only 2 off/on cycles, 3 at most, to get an empty carb rack filled with fuel - if your fuel pump is working properly.
 
I'd say you are pulling our proverbial 'leg'.

That, or you got a rat's nest someplace in your wiring. With the kill switch set to 'OFF', you wouldn't be getting any fuel pump, or V-boost servo action whatsoever. Or shouldn't be.
 
I didn't know about the kill switch Dave but remember the 3 pin connector inside the headlight shell I mentioned....just downstream of the ignition switch? There may be a problem with it....between the red and brown wires. Look at it carefully for any discoloration or other signs of excessive heat.
 
Dave, if the 3-pin connector looks discolored pull the wire end spades out of the plastic (I use a nail peened flat)....see post #1- http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5766&highlight=birdoprey's
and connect the brass ends together....insulating them from each other....and see what you have.

In fact I think that might be a good place to start....even before tank removal.
 
OK. I left it on the charger for a few hours and I'm getting this.
http://youtu.be/XnW7LuGl0LI

Battery shows 13V switched off. 2-5v key on. Headlight and turn signals are coming on super dim. I'm assuming at this point that it's a battery issue and that the smoke you see in the video is from the battery trying to get things running but not having enough juice to do anything. I disassembled the ingnition switch (looks great, but cleaned anyway) and the throttle side switch housing (also no issues with corrosion or anything like that, but cleaned and lubed anyway).
 
Take the battery out and have it load tested at you local auto parts store........the video link says it private, so no one can view it but the member who uploaded it.
 
OK, fixed the video. I'll pull it and run out to get it checked in a bit. I hope this fixes things. I'd really like to get my bike started. I just can't imagine that a whole bunch of different connectors/relays/whatever went bad in a couple weeks sitting in the garage.
 
OK. I left it on the charger for a few hours and I'm getting this.
http://youtu.be/XnW7LuGl0LI

Battery shows 13V switched off. 2-5v key on. Headlight and turn signals are coming on super dim. I'm assuming at this point that it's a battery issue and that the smoke you see in the video is from the battery trying to get things running but not having enough juice to do anything. I disassembled the ingnition switch (looks great, but cleaned anyway) and the throttle side switch housing (also no issues with corrosion or anything like that, but cleaned and lubed anyway).

Sure sounds like an internal battery short. No power under load, and a 'light load' at that, as usually 'under load' refers to trying to spin the starter.
 
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Battery problem, indeed. Took the old one to batteries plus to have a load test. Tested once super low, and wouldn't even register a second pull. Came home with an Odyssey pc680 and got this!!! Sorry the audio is blown out. I'll put up a single thread with my whole ordeal soon.

http://youtu.be/gRLFPlkYWl8
 
It's so much smoother. I was a bit worried at first when the revs went flying up, but I think I got the idle screw adjusted right. I'm going to check if the carbs are fully seated. I had a heck of a time getting them on there, even with new v-boost boots. I think I might have to take the whole carb/intake assembly off to replace gaskets as well. There might be a little oil weeping out of those outside bolts.
 
It's so much smoother. I was a bit worried at first when the revs went flying up, but I think I got the idle screw adjusted right. I'm going to check if the carbs are fully seated. I had a heck of a time getting them on there, even with new v-boost boots. I think I might have to take the whole carb/intake assembly off to replace gaskets as well. There might be a little oil weeping out of those outside bolts.

That's a little odd Dave....the idle was set at 1050 - 1100, wonder what changed it? :ummm:
 
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