Mysterious rusty bolt

[9021brown]

I have a wierd problem with an 06 model. At the front of the right scoop, there are 3 screws which hold the face of the scoop ( the vent) in place. The center screw completely rusts over and has to be replaced every 2 months. This has been going on for a couple of years now- had to buy a box of these painted screws from Fastenal to meet the demand. The only thing that I can relate to this location of the bike is the thermostat, where I replaced the stock temp sensor with the manual fan switch. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[dannymax]

That's weird!! Corrosion is electrical, do you have anything grounded to that screw?

Di-electrically isolating the screw from the scoop might stop it, it would be interesting to find out. Not sure it would work but maybe try some di-electric grease on the screw threads....see if there is any change.

 

[satariel666]

I replaced all bolts with stainless steel and i dont know what is rust anymore.

 

[9021brown]

Tried the grease already- still rusted. Seems I saw a post somewhere in this forum about voltage leaks and how to detect, but have been unable to locate. Got a brand new PC 680 yesterday and would really like to resolve this prob before I install it. Its gotta be electrically related.

 

[richwrench]

Add an extra ground from battery NEG to frame. I used an over-sized braided ground strap. IMHO the factory battery-to-frame ground is in-sufficient. Others will dis-agree. Just my .02...

 

[[email protected]]

Test for draw:
1. Set the meter to measure amperage. Most decent mulit meters will measure milliamps (mA) only and have a fuse in them that will blow if the current exceed the fuse rating.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable

3. Put one lead of meter on the negative post of the battery and other end of lead on the terminal that you just disconnected from the battery post.

I can't remember the spec for the vmax but the draw should be VERY minimal. I think it is .2mA or less. When I tested my bike I came up with 0.3 microAmps (0.3 uA) draw with the key and engine stop switch off. If you turn you key on you may blow the fuse in the meter because of the amount of power the headlight and running lights (front turns) draw.

 

[KosRider]

+1 for Richwrench's suggestion.
I too have an 06 and the ground cable at the engine was NOT soldered to the attaching lug, just crimped. When the engine warmed up, the heat transfered to the lug, expanded it and made the connection to the copper wire / ground poor. Affected the starter on restarts. Soldered the connection, problem solved. Never hurts to have more than one neg to frame ground. Just adding my .02 too !

 

[one2dmax]

The aftermarket bolts suck unless you get stainless. The OEM bolts are coated though they can rust too but usually not nearly as fast. Polished stainless look good in there!

 

[MaxMidnight]

All this to sort one rusty fastener? :ummm:

Wood and trees springs to mind. :confused2:

I second Prez's suggestion - go stainless!:clapping:

 

[one2dmax]

Oh, just in case it was overlooked. There is supposed to be a ground wire that hooks to the coolant junction. I could be unplugged or need cleaned where it either bolts to the body or the plug in portion.

 

[jbretthorton]

Add an extra ground from battery NEG to frame. I used an over-sized braided ground strap. IMHO the factory battery-to-frame ground is in-sufficient. Others will dis-agree. Just my .02...

OH BOY!!! I REALLY DIS-AGREE!!! STRONGLY!!! JK:rofl_200:

 

[richwrench]

One more thing I forgot - all fasteners should be soaked in Seafoam for 20 minutes before installation. This prevents rust, adds HP, & increases your cruising range to 200 miles before the light comes on...

 

[jbretthorton]

I need a rusty bolt to fix that way then!