Need Bike Shop help!!!

[MagnaVMax]

Does anyone know of a good shop in either Mid to lower Louisiana, or the Houston area where i could get my bike tuned at? I don't know how to do carb adjustments myself and i believe it is running a little rich (just my opinion, i could be wrong).

I'm running a little seafoam through it now to get the little bugs cleaned out. But i think it could run a whole lot smoother. It tends to pop and crackle a lot when i'm de-accelerating or letting off the gas. And it has a little smoke coming out of the exhaust at idle, not a lot but just a little.

 

[RaWarrior]

That certainly sounds like a rich condition. The pop/crackle on decel is the heat in the headers igniting all the unburnt fuel being spit out of the cylinders.

I trust it's not a burning oil smoke? That's faintly blue and tends to hang around a while, while "too rich" smoke is faintly brown and makes your eyes sting and water and smells, well, gassy.

Carb tuning isn't as scary as it seems. There's in-depth tutorials in the Carbs section, I wrote a needle adjustment procedure in the "how to" section.

For starters, I'd simply adjust your a/f screws. On the outer side of the carbs, centered under the diaphragm covers, is one hole. It may have a brass plug in it, it may not. If it does, drill a hole in it, twist a self tapper into it, then yank it out. Behind that is the a/f screw. Turn it in/clockwise until it bottoms and note the # of turns. It should be around 2.5. Close all 4 and then open them all 2.5 turns and see if it helps. This is very simple, if you can turn a screwdriver you can do it.

Otherwise rich conditions can be caused by sticking choke plungers/bent choke linkage, or too-high float levels.

 

[MagnaVMax]

That certainly sounds like a rich condition. The pop/crackle on decel is the heat in the headers igniting all the unburnt fuel being spit out of the cylinders.

I trust it's not a burning oil smoke? That's faintly blue and tends to hang around a while, while "too rich" smoke is faintly brown and makes your eyes sting and water and smells, well, gassy.

Carb tuning isn't as scary as it seems. There's in-depth tutorials in the Carbs section, I wrote a needle adjustment procedure in the "how to" section.

For starters, I'd simply adjust your a/f screws. On the outer side of the carbs, centered under the diaphragm covers, is one hole. It may have a brass plug in it, it may not. If it does, drill a hole in it, twist a self tapper into it, then yank it out. Behind that is the a/f screw. Turn it in/clockwise until it bottoms and note the # of turns. It should be around 2.5. Close all 4 and then open them all 2.5 turns and see if it helps. This is very simple, if you can turn a screwdriver you can do it.

Otherwise rich conditions can be caused by sticking choke plungers/bent choke linkage, or too-high float levels.

Ok, just did this! I won't be able to check it till tomorrow, but hopefully i can tell a difference.

From what i can tell they were at 2 turns before i adjusted them. So i closed them all and opened them up to 2.5 turns.

 

[redneksoldier]

That crackle and pop can also be caused by a lean condition in my experience. Mostly happens when the coasting enrichment diaphragms have turned to goo and/or have holes in them. Also, one or more carbs being out of sync will cause a pop on decel.

 

[jamesengland]

That crackle and pop can also be caused by a lean condition in my experience. Mostly happens when the coasting enrichment diaphragms have turned to goo and/or have holes in them. Also, one or more carbs being out of sync will cause a pop on decel.

Ditto on that. Too lean is usually the cause of popping when the throttle is released. If you richen the mixture, it will stop it. That's assuming that air is not leaking in from inlet maniflds or similar. Assuming there are noleaks anywhere.