Need help on programing electronic ignition.

[Mass 2112]

I have a Dynatek 3000 for my 2004 vmax D3K7-6. THIS is the newer one that you have to download curve maker v3.1.1 and make your curves yourself. I am sure you know what i am talking about , if not you may not be able to help me. I had a laptop crash and lost all my curves. All I have is the 2 (curve #1 & curve #2) supplied by the company. I HAVE THE dms-1 map switch so I can run either program I have downloaded. If anybody has the break points and advanced degrees to make up a curve I sure would appreciate it very much. Something that you are running on your bike and any starting at stock to in the middle of high rise of degrees. My bike has aftermarket exhaust and stage 1 carb kit so I am looking for better starting and gas mileage. But I would like to have a program that is hot for taking money from these young punks that hit me up to race the length of a bridge thinking there MUSTANG is going to beat me. ANY help is greatly appreciated . I will need only the WOT & PART THROTTLE OF THE PROGRAM BUT NOT THE ****** NUMBERS because I dont use them. AGAIN THANKS.

 

[Fire-medic]

Sean Morley should be able to assist you [email protected] (that's the correct email, I promise!)

Did you install the 'Stage 1 jet kit' yourself, or did you have it done, or was it on the bike when you bought it? If it was already there, here's a comparison to try and figure out what kit you have. Remove one of your CV diaphragms/needles, and compare the needle to this (attach.) and post-up what you find. Note that the USA-market OEM needle does-not have multiple clip grooves to change the height of the needle in the emulsion tube, changing the fuel mixture rich/lean.

If you truly do have a Dynojet Stage 1, instead of a Dynojet Stage 7, and you have a full aftermarket exhaust, not a Cobra 4-into-4 slip on there may-be some easy horsepower gains in-store! The Stage 1 is not recommended, it's hard to get it set-up properly, the Stage 7 system works better, but you need a full performance exhaust to make it work the best. A Dynojet Stage 7 carburetor kit and a full performance exhaust (larger header tubes, less exhaust canister baffling/but more noise) can get you probably a 10% increase in RWHP, tuned correctly.

If you have Cobra 4-into-4 slip-ons, removing them and returning to even a stock megaphone system will also net you probably 10% above what the Cobra 4-into-4 yields, because the Cobra costs you horsepower! Sad but true.

Post-up a few pics of your ride's L and R sides, so we can see what you have.

 

[Mass 2112]

Sorry it is late, here is the thing, when I started all the upgrades, all I wanted was to get more low end torque and better gas millage on a tank of shell premium high octane that the bike runs best on. I put the Dynatek ignition on the bike 3 months ago. It ran good but all the programs I made and tried just did not get the bike where I wanted it. Two weeks ago I put on the MAXFLOW STREETPRO 4 INTO 2 exhaust with 12 inch slash cut mufflers and a 2 in. baffle. Then I put in a dynojet stage one kit but only put in the .165 main jets and fuel needles with the clip in the fourth groove from the top going down after talking to MIKE LEES from SRP. He made a few suggestions and that is how I set it up. Also have a K&N air filter, but that has been on it for over 2 years. I am the 2nd. owner of the 2004 vmax and had it for about two and a half years. It only has 2800 miles on it and when I got it had 1200 miles on it. WHERE I live the roads ar like a snake and up and down. I dont need to turn 9500 rpm but I like to know I got it. IT is mid range and bottom end that I need most of the time. I just cant get the ignition timming right. I got all the parts to the puzzle but need help getting them to fit. I will email MR. MORLEY and see if he can provide a working timing curve for my setup. THANK YOU VERY MUCH for your help. I appreciate it.

 

[Fire-medic]

Sean will probably tell you, the Stage 1 kit isn't the one to-use. Many people have trouble getting their bikes to run well with it, while the Dynojet Stage 7 is a proven performer with a full exhaust replacement. Mike is a pro, I am only a hobbyist, so there is a difference of opinion here, and if you are having issues, consider either the DJ Stage 7, or the Morley's Muscle kit, which favors the rev band you want to enjoy. I suspect you're using the DJ 165 mains, DJ and Mikuni are not the same orifice diameters for their main jet numbers being the same! FYI. You can do an advanced search on here for the comparison.

 

[Mass 2112]

Thanks FIRE-MEDIC. I really enjoy talking to someone that I can learn from. Have a good day. THANKS.

 

[desert_max]

After installing the Dale Walker Holeshot full exhaust on my 86 (replacing the OEM system), I did later downsize the mains to 150s based on numerous recommendations here. I also shimmed the Y in the airbox about 1/4 inch. It ran great before, and it runs great now. To be honest, my butt dyno didn’t detect much… or actually “any” difference after re-jetting.

All I can say is that I am fairly certain that it is about as healthy as a GEN1 Vmax could be. I have serious doubts that if I spent the money on a Stage 7 set up that I’d see any significant or detectable improvement. So I’m not gonna do it.

 

[Mass 2112]

My dyno is telling me about the same thing. I got to turn out some spacers on the lath, you say 1/4" will clear the tank cover ok at that high of a shim? I am running without the T in right now and I can tell it is running lean unless I adjust the air/fuel needle way out to where it will hurt my gas mileage. Thanks man that was what I needed to hear. GOT my timing real close to where I got my low end back, so I am close.

 

[Traumahawk]

Mileage is controlled by the needles. To get better mileage to clip needs to be closer to the blunt end, making the needle go further into the carb body. The best luck that I had when i was playing with a stage 1 kit, was 150 main jets, stock 170 PAJ#2's and having the needle set at the first clip.

 

[Traumahawk]

As far as Timing, I would say stick with the dynojet curve #2. You can still run 87 octane fuel with it. I am running an Ignitech ecu (which is programmable as well). On the dyno with a tank full of 87 octane I went from a stock curve, to the dynojet curve #2, and picked up almost 2 HP. Curve #2 is basically 3 degrees more than the stock curve across the board. I then plugged in curve #3, which is about 5 degrees extra timing across the board, and LOST 4 hp. Here is what the stock curve looks like at full and part throttle.

 

[Mass 2112]

WHAT is say 100 to 2000 rpm split up in blocks and each break point wot & pt and the timing for each change at what rpm. say 100 rpm@ 3degree then so on every time timing changes what rpm is it. I guess that is what I am getting at. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP AND HOPEFULLY INFO. TO COME. THANKS MAN.

 

[Mass 2112]

After installing the Dale Walker Holeshot full exhaust on my 86 (replacing the OEM system), I did later downsize the mains to 150s based on numerous recommendations here. I also shimmed the Y in the airbox about 1/4 inch. It ran great before, and it runs great now. To be honest, my butt dyno didn’t detect much… or actually “any” difference after re-jetting.

All I can say is that I am fairly certain that it is about as healthy as a GEN1 Vmax could be. I have serious doubts that if I spent the money on a Stage 7 set up that I’d see any significant or detectable improvement. So I’m not gonna do it.

Thanks man. you and me are thinking the same thing for most part. I got the hp. I want easy starts and loads of low end torque & better gas mileage. Once again thanks for helping me.

 

[desert_max]

I got to turn out some spacers on the lath, you say 1/4" will clear the tank cover ok at that high of a shim?

1/4 is really tight. The cover is actually stressed a bit when latched. I was lazy. Just used a few nuts I had on hand as spacers. ~1/4". I didn't measure.

 

[Traumahawk]

These are the best spacers because they are precision. The distance between the clips on stage 1 and stage 7 needles is .040. The kit comes with .010, .020, and .030. Ive only had to run the .020.....which would be called a 1/2 clip......half of the distance between clips.
These kits are for twins, so you will need 2 of them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TWIN-Carb-Needle-Shim-Kit-for-Mikuni-Carburetors/110604954045

 

[Traumahawk]

WHAT is say 100 to 2000 rpm split up in blocks and each break point wot & pt and the timing for each change at what rpm. say 100 rpm@ 3degree then so on every time timing changes what rpm is it. I guess that is what I am getting at. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP AND HOPEFULLY INFO. TO COME. THANKS MAN.

This might make it easier. This is what I run in the Ignitech. The stock timing curve is set at 3 degrees, I have my idle set at 10. It idles so much better, and remember, the Vmax came out in the 80's so emissions and smog were a concern. On the left side of the Ignitech graph, It does say KPA....which is pressure....but its set up like throttle position, so at 60% It switches from the "part throttle" timing, to the full throttle timing curve.

Make sense?

 

[VMAXXIMUM]

Eric shared that curve with me for my Ignitech unit and I’ve been running it for at least seven years and I must say I think my bike runs pretty good. With the ignitech unit it’s very easy to program.

 

[Mass 2112]

This might make it easier. This is what I run in the Ignitech. The stock timing curve is set at 3 degrees, I have my idle set at 10. It idles so much better, and remember, the Vmax came out in the 80's so emissions and smog were a concern. On the left side of the Ignitech graph, It does say KPA....which is pressure....but its set up like throttle position, so at 60% It switches from the "part throttle" timing, to the full throttle timing curve.

Make sense?

Yea I get it and will be able to plug the info. in the software and make a curve to run. I have one curve that is ok but I can switch between to a 2nd curve on the go so yea I am very happy. Thanks so much man. You can never have to much information, thanks.