Needle valve seats

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johnsodm

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Hi, I was wondering how to get the needle seats out of the carburetor to install new ones. I see the plug and don't know how to remove it or put it back, or if I have to remove the plug at all. My book just says push on the seat and the seat and plug will push out. Seems a bit lousy for instructions... Any help would be appreciated!

DJ
 
Hi, I was wondering how to get the needle seats out of the carburetor to install new ones. I see the plug and don't know how to remove it or put it back, or if I have to remove the plug at all. My book just says push on the seat and the seat and plug will push out. Seems a bit lousy for instructions... Any help would be appreciated!

DJ

You can do it that way, it'll mash the screened bonnet on top of the seat but it'll work. I drill & tap the plug and 'jack' it out with a 'C' clamp then do the same with the seat using an aluminum bolt as a seat extender.

Are you sure the seats are bad....have you tried chucking up a Q-tip in a drill and polishing the seat with hand cleaner, toothpaste, etc?
 
Thanks, I only think the seats may be bad because after it sits a week, it a cylinder seems to lock somewhat when starting, then has a strong fuel smell in exhaust when it starts, like fuel leaked into the cylinder and possibly even the oil. 2005, 50 thousand miles, thought I would replace them. I have not tried cleaning them as I am more concerned about the o-rings around the seats. Just did carb job on Suz Bandit 1200 that was locking up cylinders with fuel and leaking into crankcase and the seat o-rings completely fixed it. Also, can I reuse the drilled/tapped plugs if I don't go all the way through? I heard you can't buy them anymore...
 
Honestly, the actual needle valves themselves (rubber tips) are way more likely to be worn than the needle valve seats (metal). I would clean up the seats as Dan-o suggested and inspect your needle valve tips with a magnifying glass. If you do see marks on them then replace them, but leave the seats alone unless you can see visual damage or feel roughness on their surface.
 
Thanks, I only think the seats may be bad because after it sits a week, it a cylinder seems to lock somewhat when starting, then has a strong fuel smell in exhaust when it starts, like fuel leaked into the cylinder and possibly even the oil.

I think that is unlikely - it would mean that the fuel would have to travel uphill.
As the Max tank sits below the float chambers there will be very little head of fuel to get pushed out.

An easy way to check would be to drain and measure how much fuel comes out of each float chamber before you start it.
 
Thanks again. Yes, I forgot about the tank being below the carbs, good call. I think I may just leave them alone and just install new needles as suggested, as they are slightly grooved. Appreciate the tips!
 
Thanks again. Yes, I forgot about the tank being below the carbs, good call. I think I may just leave them alone and just install new needles as suggested, as they are slightly grooved. Appreciate the tips!

Very good decision johnsodm...you can easily ruin a carb body by messing with those seats & plugs.

To answer your question....no, I don't think it would be possible to drill/tap the plug without going thru, they are very soft....they also have o-rings, are staked in the carb body and it's always a good policy to leave them alone. Plus, as already mentioned, the rubber tipped needles are the wear point, hardly ever the seats or o-rings.

Question, does your fuel pump click a lot after sitting over night?
 
Very good decision johnsodm...you can easily ruin a carb body by messing with those seats & plugs.

To answer your question....no, I don't think it would be possible to drill/tap the plug without going thru, they are very soft....they also have o-rings, are staked in the carb body and it's always a good policy to leave them alone. Plus, as already mentioned, the rubber tipped needles are the wear point, hardly ever the seats or o-rings.

Question, does your fuel pump click a lot after sitting over night?

Mine does! Well, not overnight but, say 48 hrs. Clicks way too much. Never did that with the '06 carbs. Does with these ones though. Not sure how old they are. Although, I don't see any signs of fuel lingering on the carb bodies or rubber boots after I cleaned up the float bowl drain screws, seats, and replacing o-rings.... Sorry for the hijack
 
I think that is unlikely - it would mean that the fuel would have to travel uphill.
As the Max tank sits below the float chambers there will be very little head of fuel to get pushed out.

An easy way to check would be to drain and measure how much fuel comes out of each float chamber before you start it.

Right on with the info again Steve. I'm leaning toward more soda blast and less caustic dipping. a good shot of carb cleaner and hot water dip to remove any film have always been my procedure. I'm thinking the emultion tube and jets will
clean up nice from soda under pressure too.
Steve-o
 
Yes, my fuel pump goes crazy if it sits for a few days. No leakage out of the rubber tubes. Never noticed any leakage anywhere else or smelled gas. Why would my fuel pump run so long when I turn the key on after a few days sitting?
 
Yes, my fuel pump goes crazy if it sits for a few days. No leakage out of the rubber tubes. Never noticed any leakage anywhere else or smelled gas. Why would my fuel pump run so long when I turn the key on after a few days sitting?

That's a good question. Try Steve's suggestion of draining the carbs after sitting a couple days....see if one carb consistently has less fuel in it than the others.
 
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