Neutral light issue

[carrapi]

Hi,

Sometimes the neutral light on my bike doesn't come on, although there is no gear engaged.
While on neutral, a small tap downwards on the shift levers usually makes the light turn on.
It's not a big issue, just annoying.
Any ideas why this happen?

 

[maleko89]

Sounds like issue with neutral switch or the switch wire contacting ground somewhere.

 

[one2dmax]

Can you clarify if this is gen 2 (common issue) or gen 1 (not so common issue).

 

[carrapi]

Can you clarify if this is gen 2 (common issue) or gen 1 (not so common issue).

It's a 99 GEN 1

Sounds like issue with neutral switch or the switch wire contacting ground somewhere.

The switch maybe.
I don't think it's a stripped wire or something similar, because it's not a random behavior.
When going from 1st gear to neutral the light works most of the times.
When going from 2nd gear to neutral the light remains out, and after a small downward nudge on the shift lever it turns on.

 

[Fire-medic]

I agree, check for a good pair of connections in the neutral switch in the sump, or a fraying line or connector.

If that doesn't eliminate the issue, I'd pull the sender and check it for functionality.

 

[Stephan]

The neutral switch works when a plunger on the end of the shift cam touches the contact on the neutral switch. If all the wiring is OK then drain the oil, remove the three countersunk screws of the white plastic neutral switch and rotate it out. This will allow you to check/clean the plunger and spring and the contact itself on the inside of the neutral switch under the little screw for the wire. All the parts are easily replaceable if necessary.

 

[carrapi]

The neutral switch works when a plunger on the end of the shift cam touches the contact on the neutral switch. If all the wiring is OK then drain the oil, remove the three countersunk screws of the white plastic neutral switch and rotate it out. This will allow you to check/clean the plunger and spring and the contact itself on the inside of the neutral switch under the little screw for the wire. All the parts are easily replaceable if necessary.

This is only possible with the middle drive gear cover off, right?

Guess I should have addressed this issue 3 months ago, when I changed a leaking clutch slave cylinder

 

[Stephan]

Actually there is no cover and if you look underneath the middle drive cover at about 7 o'clock you should see the white neutral switch. Access not too easy but the only way to improve it is to get the engine out of the frame so you will just have to try hard! Here is a picture showing the switch between

the generator cover and the middle gearbox cover.

 

[MaxMidnight]

And here is a close up.



This switch happens to be one form a Venture (I think) which has a contact for fifth gear. As you can see it is possible to access without having to remove the motor once the footrest and Middle gear housing is removed. Note that with the retaining screws removed you need to pull it out perpendicular to the engine.

 

[carrapi]

Digging up this topic.

I've been dealing with the neutral light problem, I've simply gotten used to it.
However, lately I have been encountering false neutrals, especially when downshifting from fourth to third gear.

So I decided to investigate the source of the problem, and discovered that the stopper lever is misaligned with the stopper plate.

In the position it´s in, I can slightly turn the shift cam with my hand, which causes the neutral light to go off or on when the gear is in neutral. If I engage third gear, a small touch is enough to find a neutral between the gears. What happens is that the stopper lever has some play, and slips in the direction of the shift segment.


So I bent the stopper lever inwards a little, which does not allow it to come off the stopper plate. In the photos you can see the play in the stopper lever.


I assume the issue is resolved for now. Later I´ll get a new stopper lever and bolt.

I can't test it yet, because the thread on the sump plug gave way, and when I removed the sump I discovered this, so first I have that to solve...

Also, the stopper plate has some wear, and I have a new one to install, but I couldn't get the torx screw out. Is it safe to use a manual impact wrench on the screw? Can the turning and impact force on the shift cam cause any damage? Or should I just leave it as is?

 

[brian hicks]

This is an excellent video that will tell you how to change the dreaded O ring.

 

[one2dmax]

Interesting observation. Not run into that one before. I would think your bending of the bracket should work but likely not the source of the issue.

 

[carrapi]

Interesting observation. Not run into that one before. I would think your bending of the bracket should work but likely not the source of the issue.

Shifting gears by hand fells much better now, and the light issue is gone.

I think that the problem is either the plate hole is worn or the flange of the bolt.

Anyway, I've ordered a new plate and retaining bolt.

Can I use a manual impact screwdriver to unscrew the bolt of the shifting segment?

 

[MaxMidnight]

You probably can provided you don't use a sledge hammer.
Before you go down that route though, with the torx bit in the screw and on an extension give the end of the extension a few sharp raps with a hammer.
Then use a T bar to apply torque, steadily increasing it. You will need to use your judgement to decide when to stop.
If that doesn't release it the you can consider an impact wrench

 

[carrapi]

Then use a T bar to apply torque, steadily increasing it. You will need to use your judgement to decide when to stop.

Tried, but the bolt wont move, also I stripped the head a bit.

Gave it a few hits with the impact wrench, but the bolt still didn't budged.
I also applied heat with a heatgun, without success. I assume using a blowtorch is not safe or appropriate.


I think I'll leave it as is before anything breaks.
The wear on the stopper plate shouldn't cause any problems.

 

[one2dmax]

You're at the point where you would drill the head of the bolt off. Then remove the segment. This will leave quite a bit of threaded bolt sticking out to get vice grips on and remove it. Not an uncommon issue.

 

[Fire-medic]

Shielding the area with some wadded paper towels around and beneath the shift drum segment should help contain any metal shavings.

 

[carrapi]

After several attempts, the screw did not move.
The wear on the stopper plate doesn't seem to be causing any problems, so I'll let it stay before anything breaks and I have to open the engine...

Here is the new stopper lever next to the old one. You can see the wear on the old one, where it was the rivet that sat on the stopper plate and caused the gears not to enter correctly.


The gap between the bolt and the used stopper plate appears to be larger than in the new parts, and allowed lateral movement, causing the stopper lever to come out of the stopper plate.

After two weeks waiting for an o-ring from the Kawasazi dealer to replace the stock one, I installed everything and took a few rides around town. The gearbox works perfectly. Much sharper than before, and neutral is easy to find and the neutral light comes on as expected.

 

[Fire-medic]

Good job, and thanks for the description and your solution, and the pics.