New carb thread

[Buster Hymen]

Ok since Mark and Shawn ignored my last entry in the Float thread, LOL, :baby::shittystickdamn, thought I had the smilie playing the violin), I'm starting a new thread. I have ripped out the carbs, split them and they are sitting on the work bench. The one I thought was the issue (#3, right hand side, furthest carb back from the front, is 3 right??), looks OK inside. The other 3 seems to have sticky floats. With the carbs upside down, the carbs will hang at the highest point (which would the lowest point sitting on the bike) as if they are stuck. Doesn't take much to move them, but I'm sure that isn't "right". Also someone needs to explain in greater detail doing dry float heights (in metric) measurements. Also now that they are open, someone Photoshop the attached pictures and show me what I should be cleaning, checking, and maybe label the parts. This is the first time I've gone this far into these carbs. In the attached pictures, the first is the right hand bank and the 2nd is the left hand bank.
Also is anyone close to University Motors? Now that I'm in this deep, i should replace the diaphrams/slide assembly and I believe they give the best price.

 

[shawn kloker]

Buster ,the measurement is 17mm from the float to the inside lip of the outer case.Yours look way out from the pics.I would take each carb one at a time and totally disect it .Blow air and carb cleaner through each hole.Look at the small enrichener diaphrams too.If needed I can help getr your parts if no one closer can.

Take that block off behind the float and pull out the rubber plugs,pull out the small jets and clean everything.Pull out the diaphrams before blowing the **** out of them.

Can some one post a link to the float setting page?I have seen many using a caliper to measure.


MARK? CHRIS? I have to get back to work till later this afternoon.

 

[Buster Hymen]

Buster ,the measurement is 17mm from the float to the inside lip of the outer case.Yours look way out from the pics.I would take each carb one at a time and totally disect it .Blow air and carb cleaner through each hole.Look at the small enrichener diaphrams too.If needed I can help getr your parts if no one closer can.

Take that block off behind the float and pull out the rubber plugs,pull out the small jets and clean everything.Pull out the diaphrams before blowing the **** out of them.

Can some one post a link to the float setting page?I have seen many using a caliper to measure.


MARK? CHRIS? I have to get back to work till later this afternoon.

The floats are sitting like that in the pictures to show what position they can stick in. I've fixed that by taking the float out and cleaning the gold thing it sits on (control the fuel that comes in).
It is the float height measurement that is screwing me up. The dry float thread is here http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=1427 and Mark show 1.06 inches for the measurement, but someone else says it should be 1.125 inches. If you convert that to Metric, it comes out to about 26mm and 28 mm, so where does the 17mm measurement come in or how is that measured?

 

[maleko89]

Buster, I recently set a set of carbs I'm working on to 1.11 inches and it's WAY lean. The fuel level was about 20 mm 18-19 mm. I'm going to try 1.07 inches like Oldman Smith says and see if its close. It was so lean I could only give it throttle with the choke on.

Once you set the carbs to say 1.07 inches, that should get you close. Then, you can do this measurement as illustrated in the picture I'm including. Open the float bowl drain screw and slowly lower the hose from the carb body line. The fuel level should measure 16 or 17 mm BELOW the line on the carb body. Make sure all four carbs read the same. 15 mm is pretty rich and will cause intermittent flooding.

Mark
#1098

 

[turbostang]

I set mine at 1.125 inches from the bottom of the float to the inside of the bottom mounting flange with the carbs level and the throttle blades facing up.
The 17mm is the desired float height with the carbs on the bike and a clear plastic tube attached to the drain tube.
I have not driven it yet, but should be able to in the next day or two. i will let you know how it works out.

 

[Buster Hymen]

Buster, I recently set a set of carbs I'm working on to 1.11 inches and it's WAY lean. The fuel level was about 20 mm 18-19 mm. I'm going to try 1.07 inches like Oldman Smith says and see if its close. It was so lean I could only give it throttle with the choke on.

Once you set the carbs to say 1.07 inches, that should get you close. Then, you can do this measurement as illustrated in the picture I'm including. Open the float bowl drain screw and slowly lower the hose from the carb body line. The fuel level should measure 16 or 17 mm BELOW the line on the carb body. Make sure all four carbs read the same. 15 mm is pretty rich and will cause intermittent flooding.

Mark
#1098

OK, so you're saying you do a dry measurement and then a wet measurement on the bike? I can't really tell what you're doing in the picture you attached.

 

[Buster Hymen]

I set mine at 1.125 inches from the bottom of the float to the inside of the bottom mounting flange with the carbs level and the throttle blades facing up.
The 17mm is the desired float height with the carbs on the bike and a clear plastic tube attached to the drain tube.
I have not driven it yet, but should be able to in the next day or two. i will let you know how it works out.

OK thanks, that makes the 17mm measurement clearer and the dry measurement clearer. I'll wait to hear how you like the 1.125 float measurement on yours.

 

[shawn kloker]

Sorry Buster!17mm is the wet measurement.you put a clear hose over the black drain hose.Open the drain screw and hold the hose up to a line on the carbs.Turn the pump on and see where the level is.

Wet measurement is a real pain in the *** without doing it on a bench with a fuel bottle.Any adjustments on the bike would mean tearing everything back apart again.Resync the whole deal.I always just went with the dry measurement setting.

Your carbs do look really clean inside for an 88.

 

[shawn kloker]

Buster,Are these stock carbs,rejetted bigger for the kerker?

 

[shawn kloker]

Ok since Mark and Shawn ignored my last entry in the Float thread, LOL, :baby::shittystickdamn, thought I had the smilie playing the violin), I'm starting a new thread. I have ripped out the carbs, split them and they are sitting on the work bench. The one I thought was the issue (#3, right hand side, furthest carb back from the front, is 3 right??), looks OK inside. The other 3 seems to have sticky floats. With the carbs upside down, the carbs will hang at the highest point (which would the lowest point sitting on the bike) as if they are stuck. Doesn't take much to move them, but I'm sure that isn't "right". Also someone needs to explain in greater detail doing dry float heights (in metric) measurements. Also now that they are open, someone Photoshop the attached pictures and show me what I should be cleaning, checking, and maybe label the parts. This is the first time I've gone this far into these carbs. In the attached pictures, the first is the right hand bank and the 2nd is the left hand bank.
Also is anyone close to University Motors? Now that I'm in this deep, i should replace the diaphrams/slide assembly and I believe they give the best price.

Make sure that big brass screw is tight in each carb.I had on e come out once.It holds in the needle jet nozzle.

 

[maleko89]

Buster, my pic just shows how to do the wet measurement w/o using the clear hose over the black drain hose. You just use the drain hose itself and then use the level line on the float bowl cover. Fuel should be level with the end of the drain hose when the hose itself is level with the fuel level mark on the float bowl cover.

Mark
#1098

 

[Buster Hymen]

Sorry Buster!17mm is the wet measurement.you put a clear hose over the black drain hose.Open the drain screw and hold the hose up to a line on the carbs.Turn the pump on and see where the level is.

Wet measurement is a real pain in the *** without doing it on a bench with a fuel bottle.Any adjustments on the bike would mean tearing everything back apart again.Resync the whole deal.I always just went with the dry measurement setting.

Your carbs do look really clean inside for an 88.

I was surprised how clean they were inside. I was expecting a real mess in there.

Buster,Are these stock carbs,rejetted bigger for the kerker?

I put the Kerker on when I got the bike so I am assuming they are stock jets.

 

[Robbarrie]

To measure the bowls, can you not empty all the carbs, turn on the key and wait for them to fill, turn off the key and open each drain measuring the fuel that comes out and compare them ? :confused2:

 

[maleko89]

You could, not as accurate. Floats need to be perfect and the same.

Mark
#1098

 

[maleko89]

Buster, just had a set of carbs apart. Here's a break-down of what I did. In the end, I tried the carbs on my bike and it ran well! The low end was a bit weak but it takes a bit of time to break the carbs in. After all, they're dry and it'll take a bit for fuel to get to every nook and cranny. I went for a 10 mile ride and it progressively got better. Part of the problem was when first testing I ran w/o the airbox or any filters. I can do that since I have stage 7 air restrictors. Anyway, when running open stacks you do lose some performance.

To remove the jet block you need to remove two small phillips screws and then the brass flat head screw that holds the needle jet on. Be careful of the brass washer, jet block gasket and the small o-ring that fits on the needle jet. Both of these parts can be reused. If you're doing this work with slides installed you may want to insure that the needle jet doesn't drop and damage the needle and/or slide.

Once you remove the jet block remove the rubber caps, the PFJ, main jet and main bleed pipe. I soaked each part in a container full of Honda carb cleaner. Then use a small brush to completely clean the PFJ and main bleed pipe bores. I then used my rubber tipped blow gun bit and made sure I could blow in each hole inside the float bowl. I did the same to the jet block. I did a lot of blowing! lol I had another container full of brake cleaner and soaked the parts in there for a bit. I was amazed of all the bits and crap that came out...even after I cleaned with full blasts of carb cleaner. After drying the parts with my compressor I took the blow gun and make sure I could blow into the PFJ. Reinstall the bleed pipe, main jet and PFJ. Take the rubber tip and make sure each hole is still clear. Carefull reinstall the jet block gasket and make sure the needle jet is fully seated and the o-ring is slid all the way down. Line the nub in the jet block with the groove in the needle jet. Reinstall the brass washer/screw and tighten. Now, look down the main carb bore and make sure the needle jet is fully seated. Install the phillips screws. One is shorter, this goes to the side closest to the rubber caps. Oh, make sure you carefully clean the rubber caps and fit then so they're fully seated. After experimenting with dry float levels, I set each float to 1.115 inches or 28.321 mm. Check each wet float level to make sure they're the same and either all are 16 mm or 17 mm. Re-rack all four carbs and then re-check. Put the carbs back on the bike. Before tightening the boots up, reconnect fuel supply and recheck float levels again. I hope this helps.

Mark
#1098

 

[Buster Hymen]

Thanks for that Mark. I spent the weekend mostly doing trial and error on the carbs. I got to install, take off, reinstall the carbs a few times as I forgot stuff and to stop leaks! :damn angry: Any ways that is a whole story in itself. :biglaugh: So I got the carbs cleaned out, floats set and finally back on the bike. Synced up the carbs and the bike ran and idled great... and no smoke! :eusa_dance: The bike was running for about 10 minutes and it just suddenly died!! LOL... well that was an easy fix as I had ran out of gas! :doh: Gased her back up and it was running for a couple of minutes and I revved her up a few times when it backfired a few times out the exhaust and less than a minute later it started to smoke again! :th_signs60: I turned it off, went to get some tools and turned it back on again and it wasn't smoking again.:wacko: :hmmm: It ran for a few minutes with me revving it and no problem, then it suddenly started to backfire out the exhaust and smoke again. I never checked the #3 plug as I had dedicated enough of the weekend to it and was no longer interested in it but i would imagine it is wet. I believe I had some type of carb issue but now I'm guessing it was part of another problem. Now I'm wondering if it is an electrical problem with a coil cutting out or, hopefully not, an issue with main control unit.

 

[shawn kloker]

Buster,One good thing is that serious problems do not come and go.

 

[Buster Hymen]

Maybe I should consider a forum just for problems with my bike! :damn angry: Ok I seem to have a intermittent problem around 4 k . Bike idles fine and sometimes run fine but when the problem starts it seems to be around 4k and above. I think pretty much the cylinder is cutting out as I get a backfire out the exhaust and smoke. I'm guessing coil but the coil bench tests OK according to the Service Manual but I have no way of doing a load test. I want to know if anyone else has run into this problem and what the solution was.

 

[shawn kloker]

Spark plug wires just soved all of my problems that I thought were carb related.Ripping like a motherF****r again!