New forks

[Arm-stretcher]

I have a '92 w/just over 13,000 miles on it. The forks are crap! I've heard in the past about better replacement forks. Any one know about this?
Also, opinions on Dale Walkers Power Commander (I think that's the one) and pipe kit?
Thank you. :confused2:

 

[Fire-medic]

I have exactly the same bike you do. You can replace the forks w/the '93-'07 forks (probably the most cost-effective choice). You will need the newer triple trees too. The front wheel will work for either, as will the VMax headlight holder/cover for the brake splitter. You will need the 100 mm center-to-center mounting hole front brake calipers & 298 mm rotors too from the '93+. The stock 1985-1992 calipers will not fit the '93+ unless you use adapters, which cost more than a good used pair of newer calipers from an FZR1000, YZF1000, or R1. The Hyabusa or last year FZR1000/YZF six-piston calipers are popular too.

If you search the site using the 'search' function, you can find all sorts of info on this.

Many people look to replace the front end w/an upside-down-fork from a sportbike such-as a YZF1000/R1 Yamaha. Typically big $$. Since the front end is shorter, you need dropped or 'gullwing' triple trees to fit the sportbike USD forks, those will cost you about $700 or more from someone like Cycle One-Off, Boxxenstopp, or Wild Brothers. Then there's the cost of the front wheel for the sportbike front end, or a custom axle/spacers to re-use your VMax wheel.

My suggestion is to just go w/new steering head bearings & a 1993+ front end w/Yamaha two-pair opposed piston calipers & the 1993+ 298 mm stock Yamaha VMax rotors. People will tell you to upgrade your brake master cyl, but it's not necessary, you can re-use yours if it's in good shape. You also don't need "wave rotors" unless you can't find reasonably priced used 298 mm rotors, then you might decide to spend the $.

You can do a cheap upgrade, comparatively-speaking, or you could spend $2500+ going w/late-model sportbike stuff & etc. My advice for right now is to go for the stock 1993+ parts upgrade and get back on the road. You can always study the upgrades and do it later.

My experience was to upgrade to the '93+ front end, FZR1000 calipers, new steering head bearings, and a new, used 17" rear wheel and fitting radials, using the stock front wheel. The wheel width isn't optimal in front, but it will work, and the handling difference is very noticeable. I haven't even mentioned Progressive Suspension or Race Tech front springs & lowering kits, different valving, etc. If you rebuild the forks, use Yamaha fork seals, they seem to give the fewest problems.

There will be many other advisors here too, see what they say, and make an informed choice.

And I didn't even mention anything about either rebuilding your calipers you get, which is easy, or about choosing replacement pads (HH friction compound is a favorite for many).

 

[MaxMidnight]

Depends how much money you want to spend.

Start by making sure that what you have is in good fettle before splashing out.
Check and adjust (or replace) the steering head bearings), replace the oil in the forks.

Next would be to decide if you have enough dosh to go USD or upgrade to the later forks and invest the money saved on other handling improvements.

Whilst I don't have personal experience I've been told that unless you ride like Jorge Lorenzo all of the time then USD is not a significant improvement over RWU.....unless you like the looks which is subjective.

Soooo, what I would suggest is:-
A set of the later forks.
Racetech Gold Emulators
Racetech single rate springs (go for one weight below what they recommend) or a progressive wound spring.
R1 blue spot callipers
Master cylinder with 13mm diameter piston.
Brake disks to suit (from
late V-Max, late FJ1200(not ABS),T/Cat, T/Ace, R1, R6, FJR1300, BT1100 Bulldog, TDM900).

That has sorted the front but don't forget about the rear.
In the UK I would suggest Hagons but I think that Progressive's get the nod in the States?

Still not happy?
Solid engine mounts or frame braces.

Want more...are you insatiable?

17" wheels and radial tyres.

Still not satisfied?

Properly braced swinging arm.
Gusseting around the swinging arm pivot point.
Strengthening ring at the drive-shaft boot end of the swinging arm.

If you have made it this far you will have a bike that handle better than the majority of riders ability.

If that ain't enough then either get a Ducati Paginale or make sure you have written your will cos methinks baaad things could happen.

http://www.dreamstime.com/register?.../stock-photography-sad-emoticon-image18589362

 

[sdt354]

An upgrade to USD like the C.O.O. is somewhat cost effective. Check it out. I do sugest you ride a bike with the newer Gen 1 forks and brakes and compare before doing that conversion.
The brakes are superior for sure. But, you'll still want to upgrade the forks.
Steve-o

 

[one2dmax]

As has been noted you have plenty of options. We don't mind the early front ends with new springs/seals and good fluid. Then some of our hayabasa conversion brackets gets some real braking power on them.

BUT, the later model forks do have larger diameter tubes and as such resist flex. I do have a few different nice sets on hand if you are interested in going that route (email me at [email protected]).

The later forks will require the larger rotors (same size as our hayabusa upgrade does actually so that's a wash). You also need the triples as noted and even the fork brace (fender is the same). We have plenty of good OEM 4 piston brakes from those years that would be cheap but even the R1 stuff (earlier stuff) will fit as an "upgrade" too. There are a few six piston upgrades for the later front end but they are harder to find then the hayabusa stuff we make for the early front ends. We are working on some even larger conversions for maximum braking power available - period! But, it's overkill and not needed unless you just got to have it.

Lighter wheels (see our Carrozzeria's) add a big increase in the handling potential of your bike. The inverted front ends also add handling (we will be offering some of this stuff soon too!!).

So, many different ways to go depending on your budget.

 

[davesax36]

So are the Busa brakes a direct swap on the '93+ forks, do they just need adapters, or do they not work either way?

 

[[email protected]]

So are the Busa brakes a direct swap on the '93+ forks, do they just need adapters, or do they not work either way?

Busa calipers will bolt onto 85-92 forks IF you buy adapters. They do NOT fit 93-07 forks, period.

If your looking to upgrade calipers on 93+ forks consider R1/R6 blue spots, from about '99 up till they went radial. Warriors have a version of these calipers with silver inserts instead of blue. There are some 6 pot calipers that bolt right on too. YZF 750, and another bike. Can't remember what years though.... '97 should work.

 

[one2dmax]

Correct. The busa adapters are for the 85-92 forks. HOWEVER, we are nearing completion of the adapters to use 320mm rotors and Hayabusa calipers on both sets of bikes. You only actually need one caliper and rotor for that setup since the increased rotor size helps leverage.

Sean

 

[davesax36]

So it would be a single side brake setup? Are you doing adapter pairs to run two rotors? I was under the impression that the R1 calipers required a master upgrade for proper function.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[Rollie]

You can replace the fork springs & oil with Race Tech springs , oil & gold emulators , add a fork brace and ride. Like Max M stated , get one less than they recommend for your weight ( or tell 'em you weigh 15 lbs. less than you do ) I did this on my '90 . I also added Lightcon 17' wheels , Michelin Pilot power radials , Works Performance rear Street Tracker shocks and rode it for 3 years with no issues.

 

[one2dmax]

The set up we are making will work with duals but it is overkill for sure. The R1's will work with a direct bolt on with your current master. To fit better you'd want to get -2" shorter lines to compensate for the change in banjo location.