New Member In Need

[MaxKev]

Hello!

Just acquired a 2000 VMAX. Previous owner attempted to drill out the air/fuel screw in the left front #2 carb. They drilled into the carb…

So I’m looking for a left front #2 body

OR

I’ll be buying new carbs (maybe someone wants to work out an exchange if they can use the 3 good carbs).

Any info or help would be appreciated! I’ve already learned quite a bit looking through the forum threads - good stuff here.

Cheers!

 

[MaxKev]

Hello!

Just acquired a 2000 VMAX. Previous owner attempted to drill out the air/fuel screw in the left front #2 carb. They drilled into the carb…

So I’m looking for a left front #2 body

OR

I’ll be buying new carbs (maybe someone wants to work out an exchange if they can use the 3 good carbs).

Any info or help would be appreciated! I’ve already learned quite a bit looking through the forum threads - good stuff here.

Cheers!

The funny thing is…these carbs are looking to cost me more than I paid for the bike

 

[MaxKev]

Here’s the MAX I picked up at an online auction for $700 sight unseen.

 

[Fire-medic]

Hopefully 2nd gear won't jump-out of engagement which to fix is a case-split job. How many miles? Whose exhaust? Is there a thick hose connected to the oil filler cap on the right rear of the engine? What color is the brake fluid in the handlebar reservoirs? Is it opaque, or does they even have brake fluid? Does the clutch lever have significant resistance to its travel, or does it hit the handlebar with no resistance whatsoever?

If you roll the bike, does the front brake lever stop the bike? I assume that because of the carb issue, you haven't been able to start it. Feel the brake rotors with your fingertips, like you're pinching them. Is the rotor surface smooth, or is it bumpy? 'Bumpy' means time for new rotors. The brake pads have a groove running from top to bottom. If that groove is barely-there, or there is none, time for new pads, I recommend HH rated pads for the front for better braking.

Look at the date codes on the tires, they are probably too-old to do for anything but getting all parts operable, and not for use to safely move you down the road. The first two numbers are the week of the year, the second two are the last two digits of the year. Info is usually in an oval figure on the sidewall.

Is there an old tag on the bike? What's the last sticker for the year?

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf Print a copy and save this on your computer.

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

Looks like mine---Jardine slip-on exhaust

 

[Redrum]

Previous owner attempted to drill out the air/fuel screw in the left front #2 carb. They drilled into the carb…

If possible. I would be tempted to fix the carb with some gas resistant epoxy at least enough to get it running and see if second gear works. Then either part it out or go for a fix-up and rebuilt carbs.

You might find one carb but it might take a while. I can't imagine too many people are in your situation with one carb total bad,

 

[MaxKev]

Hopefully 2nd gear won't jump-out of engagement which to fix is a case-split job. How many miles? Whose exhaust? Is there a thick hose connected to the oil filler cap on the right rear of the engine? What color is the brake fluid in the handlebar reservoirs? Is it opaque, or does they even have brake fluid? Does the clutch lever have significant resistance to its travel, or does it hit the handlebar with no resistance whatsoever?

If you roll the bike, does the front brake lever stop the bike? I assume that because of the carb issue, you haven't been able to start it. Feel the brake rotors with your fingertips, like you're pinching them. Is the rotor surface smooth, or is it bumpy? 'Bumpy' means time for new rotors. The brake pads have a groove running from top to bottom. If that groove is barely-there, or there is none, time for new pads, I recommend HH rated pads for the front for better braking.

Look at the date codes on the tires, they are probably too-old to do for anything but getting all parts operable, and not for use to safely move you down the road. The first two numbers are the week of the year, the second two are the last two digits of the year. Info is usually in an oval figure on the sidewall.

Is there an old tag on the bike? What's the last sticker for the year?

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf Print a copy and save this on your computer.

Bike has 15k miles on it. Tires are indeed old - appear nice but old. This bike was last registered in 2021. Jardine RT-One is the exhaust. There’s fluid all over the front rotor and the reservoir is low so I suspect a leak. I put a little oil in the plug holes and dry fired it a bit to get thing moving. I did get the bike running after cleaning the tank. However, it only ran with the choke on and I had to throttle it. Clutch lever has resistance. There’s no hose connected to the oil cap - is that an aftermarket breather or something?

 

[MaxKev]

If possible. I would be tempted to fix the carb with some gas resistant epoxy at least enough to get it running and see if second gear works. Then either part it out or go for a fix-up and rebuilt carbs.

You might find one carb but it might take a while. I can't imagine too many people are in your situation with one carb total bad,

You’re scaring me with this second gear talk - what’s the deal with second gear?

If possible. I would be tempted to fix the carb with some gas resistant epoxy at least enough to get it running and see if second gear works. Then either part it out or go for a fix-up and rebuilt carbs.

You might find one carb but it might take a while. I can't imagine too many people are in your situation with one carb total bad,

Had no clue about the second gear issue with these - that doesn’t sound good..

 

[Fire-medic]

The VMax can destroy the meshing points for the second gearset, especially. The meshing dogs become worn, and will slip-out of engagement. It's usually caused by repeated poor shifting to second gear which rounds off the engagement 'dogs' which slide into the gear's holes with which it needs to mesh to transmit power through the gearbox.

The fix? Remove the engine from the frame, turn it upside-down, remove the horizontally-split lower crankcase half, to get access to the gearset, and replace the worn gears. If you plan on keeping the bike, having the gearset 'undercut' is a machining which promotes positive meshing of the entire gearset (all the transmission gears). With the cases split, you want to look at the shift drum and the shift forks, to replace them if they're worn.

Sean Morley sells a modified oil pump and pick-up; a good time to replace the O-ring on the oil pump pick-up which sometimes can 'pop' out of place on an unfortunate owner's bike. The replacement O-ring is inexpensive, it's just the tear-down and reassembly that is $$$ if you don't do it yourself. To contact Sean Morley: [email protected]

 

[MaxKev]

The VMax can destroy the meshing points for the second gearset, especially. The meshing dogs become worn, and will slip-out of engagement. It's usually caused by repeated poor shifting to second gear which rounds off the engagement 'dogs' which slide into the gear's holes with which it needs to mesh to transmit power through the gearbox.

The fix? Remove the engine from the frame, turn it upside-down, remove the horizontally-split lower crankcase half, to get access to the gearset, and replace the worn gears. If you plan on keeping the bike, having the gearset 'undercut' is a machining which promotes positive meshing of the entire gearset (all the transmission gears). With the cases split, you want to look at the shift drum and the shift forks, to replace them if they're worn.

I appreciate the info - I REALLY hope that isn’t the case…that would suck to say the least

 

[Fire-medic]

Even if that's the case, you can do the repair with the service manual and help here.

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf Print a copy, punch holes in it, and keep it in a 3-ring binder for shop use, and save this file on your computer.

Since you paid peanuts for the bike, just consider any repairs or deferred maintenance you need to do as the cost of getting everything squared-away so you can ride the bejeezus out of it.

How are the fork seals? They can leak badly until most of the oil is gone. Then no damping, a state of being you don't want to experience on a 110 RWHP motorcycle with a top end of nearly 150 mph.

Here's something you want to do, see what shape the steering head bearings are in. And what to do to fix them, if needed. FYI, All-Balls sells a steering head bearing pair at a reasonable price, if you balk at the OEM price. They also have fork oil seals and dust seals, but many VMax owners like to go OEM for those.

 

[Shawn Dupuis]

Can't brc fix that carb.Still worth repair or buy new I consider it the same as this scenario bought a hemi cuda fo $5k one of the carbs are bad should I buy new carb? They want $5k can't justify it in my mind? That's what I paid for car lol the v max is not quite there but close in status a couple years more.once parts get real scarce

 

[MaxKev]

Just a follow up on this one. Bike runs GREAT! These things rip! I broke down the carbs and the pilots were clogged. Had a few bad orings and gaskets as well. Thank you @Fire-medic for your thread on rebuilding brakes. Thank you @one2dmax for hooking me up with my #2 carb as well as your fork rebuild vid on the tube. Total cost including the bike ended up being about $1100 - I think I did okay

 

[Fire-medic]

Once you finish the deferred maintenance from prior owners, assuming that you have space to work on it, and the skills, when things are finished, as you've seen these can be loads of fun. Did you replace the tires yet? The date they were made is a 4-digit number (week of the year and last 2 digits are the year; 0413 would be the last week of January, 2013) cast-into the rubber sidewall. The only thing I can think of more-dangerous on the VMax would be tires with the cords showing an inch-wide, a bald tire or tires.

At $1100 you have a Bargain Blaster. Have fun. Ride safely.

 

[Fire-medic]

If you're a painter you could make things look a lot better, if you're not, maybe a wrap? Kits to re-do the upholstery are available. Then you would take care of the cosmetics and have a good-lookin' ride.

Check the pads, front pads in an HH compound, and some braided stainless steel lines would make a very significant difference in braking. Have you checked the forks for their air pressure? Somewhere between 5-14 psi is where they should be on OEM fork springs.

I had a set of Jardine slip-ons, I liked them.

 

[MaxKev]

Once you finish the deferred maintenance from prior owners, assuming that you have space to work on it, and the skills, when things are finished, as you've seen these can be loads of fun. Did you replace the tires yet? The date they were made is a 4-digit number (week of the year and last 2 digits are the year; 0413 would be the last week of January, 2013) cast-into the rubber sidewall. The only thing I can think of more-dangerous on the VMax would be tires with the cords showing an inch-wide, a bald tire or tires.

At $1100 you have a Bargain Blaster. Have fun. Ride safely.

I did a full fork rebuild, brakes (replaced all piston seals along with new pads), new fluids (coolant, brake, oil), and new spark plugs. I went through the carbs and synced after afterward. The tires look good BUT they’re almost 10 years old so they need to be replaced. Need to replace the gear oil as well. Cosmetically it needs needs some attention. Not too bad though - I’m happy with it! Thanks again!