There are differences in doing carburetor work.
This is what I believe could be considered. Bear in-mind that as work proceeds, faulty parts needing replacement drives-up the cost.
First, the economy go-through. This is nothing but a clean-up of the carburetors. Complete disassembly, time in an ultrasonic bath, and reassembly using new gaskets only if necessary due to the old ones ripping, and maybe four new float needles (#36, below). OEM parts, or from someplace like K & L.
Second, the 'economy' work, but facing worn or defective pieces, replacement is necessary for those parts. This can cause the price to raise quickly. Using OEM parts is always the best path, but there are some work-arounds. An example: the CV diaphragms are bad on a couple slides. Yamaha does not sell these diaphragms! They sell slide/diaphragms as a single part. Part #9.
2007 Yamaha V-MAX (VMX12W1) Carburetor | Ron Ayers
Diaphragm Assy
1FK-14940-09-00
Retail Price: $201.99
Your Price: $159.04
Got that? Want to replace all four, because "if one is bad, or two are bad, the others are prone to fail soon." "That will be $636, please!"
There are aftermarket places you can buy the slide diaphragms by themselves, and swapping out the slide diaphragms is its own delicate task. The slides are brittle, especially in something like a part manufactured 38 years ago, and used since then. So, have the cash ready to account for breakage in an attempt to save you $ by attempting the replacement of the diaphragms on OEM, used for 38 years slides.
Want to 'cheap-out?' Try some Chinese parts, good luck with their longevity. pay 33.90 for four slides/diaphragms. The price differential makes you want to try using these instead of OEM, yes?
Caveat emptor.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255...f0bab5&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Another source:
https://www.amazon.com/Membrane-Diaphragm-Carburetor-41R-14940-00-00-1FK-14940-00-00/dp/B07RRV5DM1
$23,59 each, quite a difference from the OEM! Slides and diaphragms.
Caveat emptor.
You have torn enricheners? Part #12.
Diaphragm Set 5
26H-1490H-00-00
Retail Price: $73.99
Your Price: $55.89 That is each, four are used for this set of carburetors.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/26h-1490h-00-00/-diaphragm-set-5
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3232667151...Un8tJqzdQIdJa3+bV8C3OQzRY=|tkp:Bk9SR8760qmSYw
$39 from this vendor, and he only has two. Note that many bikes use the same part. It's the K&L part # you want to search-for trying to find them online.
Air Cutoff Valve
K&L part # 18-2808
A partial list:
Remember this is a partial list! Thanks to
CaptainKyle for providing the K&L part #.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
From this you can see that buying all-new pieces from an OEM source could easily cost you approacking $1,000! That would include numerous rubber O-rings and other pieces. Normally the float seat being brass, doesn't need to be replaced, unless you have a high-mileage bike, it's usually the float needle spring which weakens, or the rubber viton tip of the float needle (part #36) which wears-out.
This is one of those times that living a clean life, drinking your milk, and eating all your vegetables, may pay-off. You only need the minimum. However, you need to be ready for the surprise of replacement being necessary for some expensive-from OEM source parts being added to the bill. You can try going for the aftermarket Chinese stuff, but especially for the 'all-four carburetors in one brass jet kits,' do not use those! K & L and All-Balls carry quality replacement parts for our carburetors, use the search function on our forum for them.
Understand that a neglected set of carbs can end up being an expensive rebuild, especially going all-OEM. You might be better-off buying a rebuilt set of carbs from one of the guys I mentioned previously.
I hope you see that each set of carburetors may present a differing set of needs, depending upon what is worn-out.
As a last mention, do not forget that installing a new set of carburetors onto a bike with a rusty gas tank is
useless! If you have a rusted tank, or a tank someone did a crappy job of coating the interior, where the sealant is peeling-off, your expensive work on overhauling the carburetors is wasted! Be sure to address cleaning your gas tank if it needs it. There are many threads on that here. Some ways to accomplish that are:
Evaporust
electrolysis
cleaning vinegar
pressure cleaning
radiator shop cleaning
Choose one. They all work, some with differing timeframes to accomplish the same thing. A word of caution: remove the fuel level sender, and replace it with a steel blank-off plate and some silicone sealant to make it watertight, unless you're totally-immersing the gas tank, in which case you are still
removing the fuel level sender but can use the opening to allow the cleaning method to circulate better. The sender is made of potmetal, german silver, or a zinc-based casting material, and something like cleaning vinegar will destroy it! So, just remove it.
I hope you see that there are different ways to get what you want, and the overall condition of your carburetors plays an important part in the work.
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). Just make sure the tape is on the seal(about 1/8") and not the thin area. Then, barely snug cover with all 4 crews(don't forget your O-rings) just to where you can wiggle tape back and forth. Go gently and don't tear it when pulling out(that's what she said
) then tighten.
