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DeltaEcho

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Hello all, name is Dale. Just bought a 1997 VMAX 2 days ago and am getting ready for the work ahead.
She's not a basket case, rode her 50 miles home after purchase. There are a few issues though which will be taken care of.

1997 VMAX, 21,000 miles. Black for now. Aftermarket seat (don't like it). wrong handlebars. Electrical issues. Missing some parts, not important for operation.
 

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  • VMax wiring 1990-2003.pdf
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That seat appears to be a Corbin, looks like the one my bike came with, It compared infavorably to a bar room rodeo machine from the 1970s. I replaced it with a Maxgasser and dropped in some Progressive fork springs. It went from riding an oak log down the rapids to being an all day comfortable competent cruiser.

Thats a cool project, welcome.
 
As is said, "there's an *** for every seat." Some people prefer one to another. The best thing to do is to try out a seat you're considering to buy and see if your needs are met with that one. If not try another. Sean Morley can re-work your stock seat too. He will discuss what you find lacking in the OEM, and provide you with options to cuddle your cods to your supreme satisfaction.
 
Appreciate the welcome and the info y'all. I will print out that wiring diagram and save it.
The missing parts are kinda superficial, fuel cap, ( sorta important but plugged for now) fairing sides for radiator. Key lock items like air box cover. Correct bolts that have been replaced with parts bin stuff. Just small stuff.
Not sure about the front rim, but the seat is Corbin I'm fairly sure. Will let ya know when I replace it.
Exhaust is REALLY loud. I'm not sure about direction on that yet. May try to find diffusers for the Supertrapp system.
Thinking about going a special mix Kandy color for the finish. Like an over thinned Brandywine over a PXR Brilliant black base.
 
As is said, "there's an *** for every seat." Some people prefer one to another. The best thing to do is to try out a seat you're considering to buy and see if your needs are met with that one. If not try another. Sean Morley can re-work your stock seat too. He will discuss what you find lacking in the OEM, and provide you with options to cuddle your cods to your supreme satisfaction.
Heard that saying many times. I wouldn't mind trying a factory seat as I am not familiar with how they really were. Just like the handlebars, I haven't had the choice for factory, but I do know I don't like the bars that are on there now
 
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She's not ragged out, and from what I can tell there are no unusual noises when running.
Neutral is real difficult to get into but I think that the clutch may need adjustment. It starts to engage right when starting to release from the grip. Should be some play there a little.
Been sitting for a while so fuel may be an issue. Runs rich and seems to pop a little in the air box. Gonna drain the tank and run some Lucas in the new fuel.
 
Fork seals are in need. These seep just a little.

Oh... What fluids are best for this engine? I run Royal Purple full synthetic in everything I own and would like to use that.
As for diff and such i'd be unsure
 
What fluids are best for this engine? I run Royal Purple full synthetic in everything I own
Make sure it's for wet clutches.

Your clutch issue is likely due to being in-need of a full-bleed. I recommend a reverse-bleed, where you push fluid into the slave cyl bleeder. You start by emptying the master cyl of the clutch reservoir. As you push brake fluid into the slave cylinder, you will eventually see the empty master cyl reservoit start to fill with fluid. Do not allow it to overflow, because of its corrosive effects on painted surfaces. Drain the reservoir again, if you need to.

Bubbles will flow into the reservoir with the fluid. Eventually, the bubbles will stop, and every push of the reverse-bleeder, will result in a solid stream of brake fluid in the reservoir. The reservoir hole closest to the end of the handlebar is the 'big hole.' Lots of fluid from that one, enters the reservoir.

The hole closest-to the master cyl banjo bolt is the smaller hole, and tiny fizzy bubbles erupt from that one until the hose system is completely full of brake fluid, and no-more bubbles are evident.

Immediately close the slave cyl bleeder, by the left footpeg. I suggest replacing the master cyl reservoir cap at this point. Now, the test.

Squeeze the clutch multiple times, and you should very soon feel the resistance evident in a healthy clutch. From the clutch lever being fully-out, when you squeeze the lever, you should soon feel resistance, and the amount of resistance should be consistent to the handlebar. That should be it.

Many people perform the 'tie-down the lever to the handlebar overnight' idea being that any stray bubbles will go up to the master cyl reservoir, and find their way out of one or the other of those two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. I don't bother. If you want to try it and you feel it works, great.

Here's a longer version of this, and it says how to build a reverse-bleeder with something from your local supermarket and some inexpensive pieces of hardware from your local auto parts store.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/
 
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Make sure it's for wet clutches.

Your clutch issue is likely due to being in-need of a full-bleed. I recommend a reverse-bleed, where you push fluid into the slave cyl bleeder. You start by emptying the master cyl of the clutch reservoir. As you push brake fluid into the slave cylinder, you will eventually see the empty master cyl reservoit start to fill with fluid. Do not allow it to overflow, because of its corrosive effects on painted surfaces. Drain the reservoir again, if you need to.

Bubbles will flow into the reservoir with the fluid. Eventually, the bubbles will stop, and every push of the reverse-bleeder, will result in a solid stream of brake fluid in the reservoir. The reservoir hole closest to the end of the handlebar is the 'big hole.' Lots of fluid from that one, enters the reservoir.

The hole closest-to the master cyl banjo bolt is the smaller hole, and tiny fizzy bubbles erupt from that one until the hose system is completely full of brake fluid, and no-more bubbles are evident.

Immediately close the slave cyl bleeder, by the left footpeg. I suggest replacing the master cyl reservoir cap at this point. Now, the test.

Squeeze the clutch multiple times, and you should very soon feel the resistance evident in a healthy clutch. From the clutch lever being fully-out, when you squeeze the lever, you should soon feel resistance, and the amount of resistance should be consistent to the handlebar. That should be it.

Many people perform the 'tie-down the lever to the handlebar overnight' idea being that any stray bubbles will go up to the master cyl reservoir, and find their way out of one or the other of those two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. I don't bother. If you want to try it and you feel it works, great.

Here's a longer version of this, and it says how to build a reverse-bleeder with something from your local supermarket and some inexpensive pieces of hardware from your local auto parts store.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/
I'll give it a try. Everything is gonna be a learning experience. Been turning wrenches my entire life but I've a lot to learn.
 
Please drop me a picture or two and an asking price.
Where in GA?
Live in Flowery Branch but work 3 miles away from WOW cycle shop.
i'll try to find out how to send pic i'm not too good at sending stuff. seat is in very good shape 125 on price. are you going to the vmax gathering in townsend tenn next week i can bring it if you are going there. thank you mike
 
i'll try to find out how to send pic i'm not too good at sending stuff. seat is in very good shape 125 on price. are you going to the vmax gathering in townsend tenn next week i can bring it if you are going there. thank you mike
senoia ga bout 40 miles south of atl on state 85
 
I would suggest looking at the manufacturer date on the steering neck. The forks are 85-92 and the afore mentioned 85-86 wheel. It does however have the correct drive peg bracket color and the correct front pipe color so it might be the 97 with someone using a cheaper front fork set to replace maybe a damaged set (I do have a correct set available if you wanted to get that fixed).
 
I would suggest looking at the manufacturer date on the steering neck. The forks are 85-92 and the afore mentioned 85-86 wheel. It does however have the correct drive peg bracket color and the correct front pipe color so it might be the 97 with someone using a cheaper front fork set to replace maybe a damaged set (I do have a correct set available if you wanted to get that fixed).
May have to hit you up on that in the near future. I'm focused on getting her running to the point I can rely on her. Learning all the way of course.
 
By the way, I'm located just a little north of Houston Texas. Gonna look forward to meeting some of ya when the chance arises
 
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