New R/R is in but....

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Old V65 Rider

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Usually my bike runs fine but sometimes it looses power and leaves me stranded. Will be cruising then I lose power, engine won't rev and eventually dies. Similar to running out of gas. At first I thought it was my fuel filter because I hadn't changed that yet, no luck. Then CaptianKyle and Fire-medic had me check my charging system, thanks guys. Voltage was at 12.4 with key off, 12.6 at idle, 12.8 at 2500. Stator ohmed out okay so I replaced my rectifier/regulator with a used MOSFET one I got off eBay. Voltage is now at 13.4 at idle, 13.8 at 2500 RMP. Took the bike out for a test run and it kept dieing. First died just cruising at 60 mph, dies almost every time under WOT at the top of third gear. Usually it starts and runs fine after sitting for a couple of minutes. This time it was running rough and kept dieing. Fuel pump is running each rime I turn the key on.

Little history on the bike. 85 all stock. Bought it this summer not running. Had been sitting a couple of years. Cleaned the carbs, installed all new diaphrams, float needles, air cut off valves, o-rings. New carb boots. New battery. New plugs. New air filter. All fluids changed, etc. At first the V-boost would cycle when I turned the key on but it isn't now. It does not open at 6000 rpm but I do feel the power pick up about there when it if running right. When I first got it running it ran okay but lacked low end power. Out of the blue it started running better. Now, (when running right), it pulls very hard in all gears. A hard shift into second will either break the rear tire loose or slightly lift the front in the air.

My original guess was it is a fuel problem. This time it wasn't running right even just after I cycled the key many times to make sure the carbs were full. Maybe ignition? Surely if I just keep putting new parts on this thing it run better right??
 
A bit of a pain, but ride it where you can get to the ignition pick-up connector, and 'ohm-read' it when it quits next-time. You may find the pick-up develops an open circuit when the bike gets hot. A suggestion...

Kyle said, the through-case rubber grommet sometimes fails and chafing will ground a wire there. (the ignition pick-up). That hasn't happened to me but I have had two pick-ups go bad, one an outright failure, no starting possible, and the other was one that developed the 'open-circuit when engine got hot' syndrome. After it stranded me twice I finally was able to get it diagnosed/fixed.
 
A bit of a pain, but ride it where you can get to the ignition pick-up connector, and 'ohm-read' it when it quits next-time. You may find the pick-up develops an open circuit when the bike gets hot. A suggestion...

Kyle said, the through-case rubber grommet sometimes fails and chafing will ground a wire there. (the ignition pick-up). That hasn't happened to me but I have had two pick-ups go bad, one an outright failure, no starting possible, and the other was one that developed the 'open-circuit when engine got hot' syndrome. After it stranded me twice I finally was able to get it diagnosed/fixed.



Yes to the pick up being faulty, check the connectors too!!! I had some that were loose
 
The fuel pump should not run each and every time you turn the key on. You might consider taking it apart and inspecting the insides of it's diaphram area to see if the two small rubber grommet/valves are still intact, and in their correct place. Known problem for one or both of them to become dislodged, and when it happens, the pump will have problems keeping up correct fuel pressure.
 
have you tryied running the bike with the fuel switch in res mode. despite your tank is full you may have a problem with the switch

I have tried this, didn't help. Will be checking all the other ideas as soon also. Thanks for the replies!
 
One other thing to check would be the fuel tank breather. Next time it dies remove the fuel cap and listen for an inrush of air.

If not already done so I would also clean all of the earth points and do 'The Splice'

The fuel pump should not run each and every time you turn the key on. You might consider taking it apart and inspecting the insides of it's diaphram area to see if the two small rubber grommet/valves are still intact, and in their correct place. Known problem for one or both of them to become dislodged, and when it happens, the pump will have problems keeping up correct fuel pressure.

I put my money on these guys, either vacuum on tank or faulty pump, does she die only when revved up in cruise or she dies as well cruising at low rpms? Higher rpms demand extra fuel that the pump might not cope with (displaced diaphragm?), the vacuum issue will be noticed either at high or low rpms as its caused by fuel being used...
 
Think it is the fuel pump. Took the fuel line loose and checked the flow coming out, not adequate. Took the fuel pump apart but couldn't find any problem. Put it back together, tested again, worked a little better. Took it out for a test drive and it died again. Pushed it quarter mile to the shop at work. Backed off the carb drain screw, very little fuel in the bowl. Bike had hot start symptoms again but the V-boost did cycle a couple of times with the key this time. Think I am going to have to let the bike sit till I get caught up on bills. Bought two bikes this summer and had to build a motor for my son's pickup. Hope it starts and runs long enough tomorrow to get it home from the shop at work.
 
Not sure you symptoms right but i had issues with mine dying all of a sudden. My issue was the kickstand switch under the stand. just throwing that out there. it was going bad and my bike would just die, then after a few minutes or more would fire up like nothing happened then ride it abit and would quit again.
Michael
 
Not sure you symptoms right but i had issues with mine dying all of a sudden. My issue was the kickstand switch under the stand. just throwing that out there. it was going bad and my bike would just die, then after a few minutes or more would fire up like nothing happened then ride it abit and would quit again.
Michael

That was actually one of the things I had to fix to got this bike going originally. Found a replacement switch on eBay. If you are replacing yours make sure you get the right one. They aren't the same for all years of gen1 maxes.
 
That was actually one of the things I had to fix to got this bike going originally. Found a replacement switch on eBay. If you are replacing yours make sure you get the right one. They aren't the same for all years of gen1 maxes.

once i figured out what was the problem i just jumped the switch and have never replaced. Am currently in the beginning stages of a frame swap so may put a new switch on and same with the neutral light.
 
That was actually one of the things I had to fix to got this bike going originally. Found a replacement switch on eBay. If you are replacing yours make sure you get the right one. They aren't the same for all years of gen1 maxes.
Mine is actually the old style switch on a new style harness. I just put different connectors on it.
 
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