New wide wheel

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NIce work. What did you use for the dampers?

I used dampers... :biglaugh: Not the 20 dollar ones from yamaha for sure... :bang head:
I found a suitable replacement on a local shop whose especiality are special grade rubbers (so to speak)...
 
Collie and not Aussie? Check my gallery for collie pics :biglaugh:


I saw the dog with your wife. Very pretty!
The dog looks nice too. :rofl_200:


This is Darth Barker. I think he is also in one of my gallery pics.
 

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would using countersunk bolts in disc adapter make sense?

Yes it would make sense to use them on the 5 bolts that fix the adapter to the rim, not on the rotor obviously (there i could use standard allen button head). I didn't have them on hand... The countersunk have another particular advantage that is not allowing the adapter to slip if the holes have a bit more than needed diameter. In this case the holes were made in order for the bolts to fit snug and not allowing for adapter slippage when braking (if you notice the regular rotor bolts have a shoulder with no thread that fits snug on the rotor, thats how they fix it without weakening the rotor drilling chanfer for countersunk - or they open a shallow box for the button head fit on rotor). These are 12.9 grade steel so exceeds regular rotor bolts specs...
 
can you use the whole center section instead of the three spokes?How much money in it so far?
 
You can do whatever you want. A rim like this runs for about €500 finished, from zero to this final state... there are different ways of doing it but this way i believe its the safest and better way and no donor vmax wheel is needed... not like the crappy job you see below...

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So is "the crappy job" because you use a shouldered center section fabricated from aluminum dimensional stock instead of using a donor VMax wheel hub which is united to the donor spoked rim?

As long as the disparaged method is trued and the welds have proper penetration, why isn't it acceptable? (to you) I see where a lipped rim center hub may offer a positive method of location, but you have to do a lot of machining from a billet to come up w/the hub, where using aVMax hub saves a lot of machine work, doesn't it?

I can see where doing it for your own ride & you have the machining tools as opposed to having to pay for the machine work, you want to make it as good as you can, but I would think welding the VMax hub in is not weak or unsafe.

Because I am investigating methods of doing this, I have questions. I understand some techniques are proprietary info if you wish them to be.
 
So is "the crappy job" because you use a shouldered center section fabricated from aluminum dimensional stock instead of using a donor VMax wheel hub which is united to the donor spoked rim?

As long as the disparaged method is trued and the welds have proper penetration, why isn't it acceptable? (to you) I see where a lipped rim center hub may offer a positive method of location, but you have to do a lot of machining from a billet to come up w/the hub, where using aVMax hub saves a lot of machine work, doesn't it?

I can see where doing it for your own ride & you have the machining tools as opposed to having to pay for the machine work, you want to make it as good as you can, but I would think welding the VMax hub in is not weak or unsafe.

Because I am investigating methods of doing this, I have questions. I understand some techniques are proprietary info if you wish them to be.

My good friend
Each one has is own opinions on how to do things and i think this one is not a good way to go and i tell you why...

1 - flimsy walls that don't allow for proper welding without twisting the hell of that thing.
2 - hard to center the hub properly on both sides because you loose the reference with no hub inside the wheel. This means you are not able to make it perfectly perpendicular to longitudinal axis. Its also hard to center and not making it eccentrical (hub not centered with the rims lip) because i say again you loose your center reference when you bore out the original hub.
3 - bad welds because you are welding different casts to each other and that weld is more brittle than welding good grade alloy.
4 - bad finishing after weld.
5 - superficial welds on that thing.
6 - after welding and twisting due to heat (and it will twist a lot because theres no resistance on the center) if i put that rim on a straightener the welds will break all over.
7 - You are obligated to maintain the vmax original hub width with no clearance to work out the brake bracket position.

When you see the first pictures of my wheel you cannot see how it was done right? And its stripped of paint. Thats how its supposed to be (i say again its my opinion). When the wheel was finished it looks that it was always like that and no mod was done... The machining is done in order for the new hub to fit snug inside the donor wheel with no freeplay. I could almost say that i need no welds to run it, but of course it has to be welded to go check for straightness after the welds twisting...
 
can you use the whole center section instead of the three spokes?How much money in it so far?

I misunderstood your question, for this rim you cannot do that because like Prez stated on another thread the vmax center section/disc hasn't enough diameter to fit it on this rim, unless you use a rim blank to do it... see below

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I'm looking to go to a wider tire for my vmax....what rims fit or do work on it with some modifications. Can you buy them from anyone or is someone here willing to do the work for me LOL
 
You need to get with me on the Carrozzeria wheel deal we have. The "intro" sale is still good for 10 more days.

Sean
 
I'm looking to go to a wider tire for my vmax....what rims fit or do work on it with some modifications. Can you buy them from anyone or is someone here willing to do the work for me LOL

If you like the Carrozeria looks go with Sean he has a great deal on those. If you don't like that style i can make you whatever you need as long as you are in Europe. I do not ship these items across the pond... Right now im running a set of Suzuki wheels and another set of taylormade on my bikes. I have a spare set of magnesium Dymags and an alloy swingarm on the shelf... I have another suzuki rear wheel about to be finished in a couple days and a complete front end i adapted from a Kawasaki ZX9R.
 
Well. Finished another wide wheel. This time upgraded the dampers fittings, rotor adapter and bolts a bit for weight saving and to have a cleaner look. Added a bracket for a 298mm rotor at the rear with bluespots. Overall the build was even better than the previous... Another happy vmaxxer... :punk:

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Nice. Looks very similar to what I am doing. I've got an old gsxr 750/1k wheel. 5.5x17. Rotor adapter, 298 mm rotor, custom vmax services underslung bracket. R1 caliper.

Your custom hub looks alot better than the welded in vmax hub I have.
 
Hi Mike

Yes i do know Keith and he does some nice stuff. You are using a left side caliper instead of the right one like this one here. Like i said earlier this is the best option i found the be to get the vmax hub in a rim like this one. The hub is made from a solid slice of billet rod and machined to specs. One needs to bare in mind this is the first part that contacts the ground (besides the tire) and safety is paramount, so i rather go oversafe than toss the dice... Why having it satisfactory when you can have it perfect? Afterall its your safety on the line right? Thanks for the compliment.
 
Picked this up today along with a set of Pingle wheelie bars, a cherry true 1985 exhaust canisters, and some bodywork. PO (previous owner) said rim was machined to accept the tire. I have no idea what would have to be done to accomplish this. If anyone knows, chime in. It is a true wrinkle wall drag slick.
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Captain Kyle needs this more than I do ! By the way, if anyone needs any of the parts, they are for sale. Exhaust is a 9 out of 10 and not even cleaned up yet! Nice find for an 85 pair. One front pipe got curbed but the miracle are the cans of course.


When in doubt...Gas it !!!
 
I've got two modified up and ready. Probably going to be selling them soon. You machine off the bead locks to get them ready to accept the car slick (from a volkswagon setup).

Sean
 
Thanks Sean. Not surprised you knew what was involved to make it work. VW huh? Wonder what a new tire goes for?
 
i'm surprised they didn't widen the rim. looks about stock width.
 
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