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You can use some cribbing under the rear of the bike to hold it up so you can remove the rear wheel. Since you have a 4/1, you'll need to add an uneven stack to balance the bike side-to-side. It's better to support the bike under the engine crankcase than it is to try to jack on a thin, single wall aftermarket exhaust. The bike jacks with two parallel supports are capable of lifting your bike securely. You should be able to find a used one for $50-75 on craigslist. I'd use a thick piece of plywood to jack-on the crankcase, make your stack of 4x4 & 2x4 cribbing, then lower the bike onto it. Do it at the rear of the engine. Get your rear wheel serviced, re-install it, and do the front, moving your jacking point further-forward.
This type of lift, when properly-positioned, is capable of lifting both wheels at the same time, remember that you don't need to lift the bike to the jack's maximum height. It will be more-stable on the stand if you only get a couple of inches off the ground. The lifts have loops to use tie-downs to hold the bike in-position. I wouldn't use the 4/1 pipe to support any bike weight, do whatever you need to do to get the frame or engine bearing the weight, to jack it up. You would be very-unhappy to see the bike staying stationary, while you repeatedly worked the pump lever, only to discover each pump handle stroke was crushing the exhaust tubing a bit-more!
On this lift you see above the rotating casters there are wide steel loops for tiedowns, at the rear there are probably two-more loops. Better safe than sorry. BTW, you should loosen the axle nuts and the caliper bolts with the bike on the floor, to avoid any issues with a teetering bike deciding, "I'd like to lay on my side, now," as you work to do those things with the bike elevated. You need to remove brake calipers to remove wheels. If you decide to loosen both the front and rear axles and the brake calipers' bolts before the lift, I would take a piece of masking tape and write on it what you did, and stick it onto the gas tank, to remind you that you did.
By the casters you see small handscrew knobs for the pads to lift the jack casters off the floor. I suggest you use them, or whatever your lift has, for a similar function. Obviously, screwing the feet/pads down, to lift the jack off the floor, and to hold the lift relatively immobile, should be done once you've positioned the jack where you need it, and
before you begin your lift, it will be much-easier to do, yes? By all-means, do use them, or whatever you have to immobilize the jack. SInce the casters are small in-diameter, it only takes a tiny pebble to stop the wheels dead in their tracks, and if you're pushing at the wrong place, you may see your precious ride topple to the floor, in a worst-case scenario. Actually, 'worst-case' would be it falls on you, breaks your leg, and traps you under your bike, and no-one there to rescue you! Emergencies are why I carry my cellphone with me.
https://miami.craigslist.org/brw/mpo/d/fort-lauderdale-motorcycle-jack/7113864767.html
