Oil filter torque
- Thread starter Nibsy
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can anybody advise on torque setting for my oil filter on Gen 1 1200 Vmax please?
desert_max
Well-Known Member
I use the German setting: “ Guduntiet “. You want it to seal but you don’t want the stud head to strip out next time you remove it.
As with many fasteners, common sense should prevail in the absence of actual torque values. Experience will often drive your adjustment. Torque follows fastener size and application… Roughly.
What kills me is to pick up a bike and find, let’s say, an oil drain plug torqued down to 50 foot pounds. Sheesh. It’s not a pinion nut or an axle hub that it’s holding on, it’s a plug holding back oil. Folks need to use common sense and look at what the fastener is doing and/or how big it is.
Right or wrong, I rarely go to reference precise torque values unless it’s an internal engine component. But I’d be willing to bet that I am pretty close at the end of the day. And I doubt seriously that a few newton meters or inch pounds either way it’s gonna make much difference.
As with many fasteners, common sense should prevail in the absence of actual torque values. Experience will often drive your adjustment. Torque follows fastener size and application… Roughly.
What kills me is to pick up a bike and find, let’s say, an oil drain plug torqued down to 50 foot pounds. Sheesh. It’s not a pinion nut or an axle hub that it’s holding on, it’s a plug holding back oil. Folks need to use common sense and look at what the fastener is doing and/or how big it is.
Right or wrong, I rarely go to reference precise torque values unless it’s an internal engine component. But I’d be willing to bet that I am pretty close at the end of the day. And I doubt seriously that a few newton meters or inch pounds either way it’s gonna make much difference.
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Many thanks - 32 Nm felt awfully tight to me. If I were just doing it ‘by feel’ I would not do it that tight.
sounds good to me!
totalcomfort
Well-Known Member
Hand tight on all my filters
It’s not a spin on cartridge it’s a cast housing with an M20 bolt so not the type of thing you can do by hand.
Many thanks - 32 Nm felt awfully tight to me. If I were just doing it ‘by feel’ I would not do it that tight.
Firstly anything you read in a manual needs a bit of thought as it could be an error, the same for anything posted on the Internet which in addition could be wrong for malicious reasons.
If you have done any maintenance on cars or bikes, you should get a feel for how hard different sized bolts are to undo, ignoring seized ones and that is a good indicator on how much to tighten them.
I don't think there are that many bolts that need to done to the exact torque, cylinder head bolts and differential preloaded spring to mind, and it assumes the torque wrench used is accurate.
If I refer to book figures, I set the torque wrench a bit under, have not broken a bolt or stripped a thread nor have had any bolt come undone.
IMO (and experience) if you relied on that as a benchmark then you would not get the correct torque (clamping force) when re-tightening as off- torque (undoing) is frequently more than the on-torque.
The bolt is held in position by the friction between the male and female parts of the thread.
If this alters over time due to changes in temperature, humidity and the effects of corrosion after the bolt/nut was originally tightened it will affect the friction value and subsequently the torque value.
It also assumes that the individual has sufficiently good memory to recall how a nut or bolt felt when undoing it.
There is also the issue of what to do when fasteners that have the same nominal value take a different amount of force to undo...which value do you apply when re-assembling?
