okay, springs !?

[jojo2667]

okay, this is what i get through searching past post ect.. you can just put the progressive springs(reg not lowering) w/o taking the for apart, im 245 lbs. and dont want to lower anything, you should remove each fork to turn upside-down to drain and get parts out ect... then wash out with brake-clean ( ? ) , put 15wt oil in then springs with the stuff that comes with the progressive kit. dose this sound correct ? can you just replace the springs w/o taking them out of the trees ? my 01 had the oil changed before i bought it and really only want to change the springs and dont want to fool around with the oil again .:confused2::shot:

 

[maleko89]

That sounds good but might as well change the oil if it's looking dirty or has been awhile. Use non chlorinated brake cleaner spray. You can just swap springs but it will affect your fork oil level due to being a different spring.

 

[Redbone]

Your going to be pulling a small amount of oil out with hte springs and the new springs will undoubtedly will displace a different amount of oil. Having the right amount of oil is very important for dampening.
When I went to progressive springs (lowered 2"/ rider weight 270) I used 15 wt oil and it seemed just about perfect, but anything is better than the stock spring that was in there.

 

[VMAX NV]

Might as well do seals and dust covers..

 

[4gasem]

It's really very easy to do the springs. It's just time consuming. Do as Mark said. Non chlorinated brake clean only. I get them clean enough to eat off of and then reassemble them. I'm a bit anal like that though. lol


Sent from my iPad using special algorithms and data nodes.

 

[dannymax]

Might as well do seals and dust covers..

+1 There could be sludge and crap hanging around in the bottoms, it's graphite grease and won't pour out with just an oil change.

I would dismantle the whole thing, clean it up good and install seals & dust covers, as well as top & bottom bushings.

 

[VMAX NV]

as well as top & bottom bushings.

I'm looking at exploded view of forks and nothing is labeled "bushings".
Of which parts are you speaking?

I need to do this soon as I'm having some leakage on my right tube...

 

[maleko89]

Yamaha fiche calls it METAL, SLIDE 1.

Here's the part numbers:

Fork Seal Part Numbers, All Years.

Vmax 1985 to 1992
Fork Seals - (1NL-23145-00-00)
Dust Covers - (1NL-23144-00-00)
Metal Slide 1 - (3JJ-23125-00-00) Upper fork leg bushing
Piston,bushing- (41R-23171-00-00) Lower fork tube bushing

Vmax 1993 to present
Fork Seals - (4PU-23145-00-00)
Dust Covers - (4PU-23144-00-00)
Metal Slide 1 - (3XJ-23125-L0-00) Upper fork leg bushing
Piston,bushing- (5EB-23171-00-00) Lower fork tube bushing

 

[VMAX NV]

Found the "Metal Slide 1" Upper fork leg bushing, but still can't find Piston,bushing- (5EB-23171-00-00) Lower fork tube bushing. Am I blind or what? I don't even see that part number on the picture(vmax Outlaw 96 model fiche fork)

 

[maleko89]

Yeah, it's not on there. It's the same deal with the coolant drain valve o-ring. For some reason, Yamaha wants you to buy the whole bloody thing.

 

[maleko89]

Nevermind, I found it. It's part #9 on late model fiche. It is not listed on early model fiche though.

 

[VMAX NV]

Ah, the Spindle, Taper! I was going to ask you if that was it since there wasn't much left it could be. I got my snap rings on order, guess I should go back and order the Metal slide and Spindle taper.(bushings)

 

[dannymax]

The spindle taper (aka 'oil lock piece') will probably be in good shape and shouldn't need replaced....that'll save you at least $20. Here is a list of the parts I got: 13, 9, 6, 3, 4, 7, 5

I only put the snap ring on the list because sometimes they get rusty, if it's in good condition you don't need to replace.

Also, you can get the snap ring out with a screwdriver and a hooked pick pretty easily.

 

[VMAX NV]

The spindle taper (aka 'oil lock piece') will probably be in good shape and shouldn't need replaced....that'll save you at least $20.

But yours wasn't, that's why you got 9?
Why would you need new drain bolts(13)?

 

[one2dmax]

Watch the assembly video we made. It shows you all the internals laying out there.
Sean

 

[dannymax]

But yours wasn't, that's why you got 9?
Why would you need new drain bolts(13)?

#9 is the bottom bushing, #13 is the copper sealing washer.

 

[VMAX NV]

Schematic I have, 13 is the bolt, 12 is the washer....

 

[dannymax]

Haha, guess that explains it....ey! :rofl_200:

Here's what I was using....

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeI...2/Model/VMX12/GroupID/241806/Group/FRONT_FORK

 

[VMAX NV]

Ok, finally got one fork all apart! My bushings look fine(it's only a 99 not older like an 85), should I get new ones anyway?(not TOO expensive).

I got the seals, covers and snap rings. I know I need the oil drain gasket, so that leaves the oil seal washer.

Mine doesn't seem completely flat, don't know if it is made that way or if I bent it trying to pull the outer tube off without taking the snap ring out(knew I forgot something). Guess I'll order one to find out. Does it matter which side up most of these parts go, besides seal, cover and spindle taper?

This ron ayers place seem pretty cheap for parts.

 

[gamorg02]

whats the oil seal washer? morley is a good choice as i bet he's similarly priced to ron ayers, has the stuff in stock and will help you along the way.

what doesn't lie completely flat.

the snapring doesn't matter which way is up but the oil/dust seals do.