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85vmax

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2010
Messages
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Location
Davie, Florida
I'm just inquisative and need to know.
Everytime I read a post on anyone's Max, they talk about wacking the trottle and bringing the front end up or breaking the rear tire loose.

I just want to know...how do you do it......10-15 extra horses (if you have that) shouldn't make that much of a difference to my bike.

When my bike was completely stock, the boost hit like a mule, and the front end would be light in first and second.....I could also break the tires loose...on a roll on... depending where I sat...that was one ride.

I immediately garaged the bike and started changing things.
I now never feel the boost unless I'm cruising along and slowly get it to 6k and I feel it lightly kick in, and my front wheel will never leave the road (on a roll-on), and I have to clutch to break the tire loose.

I'm 220 lbs, but they are heavier guys out there that say they do it....
I do set my bike up to keep both wheels on the ground, but my front end doesn't even shimmy going full blast through the first 3 gears.....and it isn't slow....so what's up?

Is it my riding style, or is my bike slower than I think.

Chris
 
Try cruising in first around 6K rpm and then whacking the throttle WFO. Should pop right up. Careful. Don't want to hear any stories of you looping out and trashing your bike and cracking your skull. I wouldn't be surprised to hear a story about getting a bit to high for comfort, chopping the throttle, having the front end drop like a brick, and then smash your nuts on the faux from the harsh landing. Not that I did that or anything :biglaugh:
 
OK Mike......I think you may have talked me out of it. I may try it this week-end, but you have already put the fear in me.
I could see it possibly comming up at 6K, I just assumed it was at lower rpm, and my ride is a 1 inch lower all around....worse thing is chopping the trottle and busting my nuts or worse a fork seal:confused2:

I did loose some bottom end and mid range umpphh with my set-up though.

Thanks,
Chris
 
85vmax , if you dont feel your V-boost you have to check somethings.

1st you must chech if your V-boost opens your butterflies complete. there is a screw the you you align that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CURW...y&list=PL859B776FB9249D92&index=17&playnext=2

turn your key on. when you here the first bzzzzzzz. turn the main switch off. your vboost now is opened and your butterflies should be wide open. take a screwdriver and try to push up the butterfly .if it doesnt go up . is wide open. but if it goes a liitle more up this means your V-boost does not open your butterflies wide open. So what do you do. from the right side of your bike you see under and between the carbs the black box that goes up and down when the v-boost system open or closes. there is an allen screw. you push with the screwdriver the butterfly up untill you cant push it anymore and with and the other hand you must adjust the allen screw so the wire of the vboost servo is fully tight and no loose. this will fix it.
another issue which i had and thought that was the V-boost fault and spend weeks trying to find out why i couldnt feel the V-boost..... DON'T LAUGH NOW. WAS THE GRIP. my throttle grip was silicon grip from Harris with the V-max logo written. when i turned the throttle opposite way which means the thottle couldnt move the grip slightly turned like something had melt inside it and wasnt firm. now whenever i turned opened the throttle on the road without understanding it i the throttle from the first sec i opened it was closing cause of what i told you. i found that by luck. When i replaced the grips. I felt like i had 3 v-boost on my bike not one.
i have a 1300cc high compression engine and gone with keihin fcr's i had 126 hp with my mikuni and now with the fcr's imy last dyno showed 144.3 on the wheel. beleive me when riding my bike. 1st ,2nd gear frond tire cant keep up staying on the road. 3rd you feel the front wheel just touching down. but if ia have a passenger behind. yeap it goes up again. hope i helped
 
mine would only do it above 7k stock, i could do it at like 4k in first with tboost, now with vboost always on and a jet kit i can do it on command in first and most times when shifting.

my rear tire never breaks loose tho.
 
Funny....I have those same Harris grips on.....but sure thats not my problem.
I think I do feel the boost, but not the kick I used to have. I lost it once I put slip-ons on.
I just have a smoothe transition through the power curve, and just a smoothe kick at about 7K.

Must be my riding style also...I'm so used to short shifting first, I have a phobia with taking 1st to the MAX.
Even at the track I short shift before the shift light comes on, and I'm only a couple hundred off.

I short shift my FZ1 also, but thats to keep the front on the road.

Thanks for the insight...hopefully I'll solve the problem this week-end.

Chris
 
Before lowering the front forks (Actually, Sean Did It) mine was really quick to spin the rear with 1 up and lift the front wheel with 2 up. On occasion it did both with 1 up... Now it's much more controllable.
 
mine wheelies no problam but ive got air in my forks so it doesnt sit low
 
I'm about 170p with riding gear and power pop it in 1st and 2nd (I run 5psi in the forks),
with dipping the clutch it will wheelie in 3rd and I haven't tried 4th gear but sure it will do it.

This is on my 91 max with out'a sync carbs and 4-2-1 kreker system.

To power slide I just let it rip out of a corner or dip the clutch right after closing thruttle and shifting my body forward, No need for brakes.

Don't try this at home.
Try it outside :biglaugh:
 
I believe he meant the "p" as short for "pounds" and not "horsepower".

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On a good day I think my bike lets out about 115 RWHP.
I'll get it Dynoed after installing stage 7 and filterpods.
 
+1, get it a little higher in the r's before you blip the throttle. Rider position is helpfull too.

I'm a heavyweight, if I scootch back a little the front comes up. if I slide forward a little the back tire will break loose, but that depends on the condition of the road. if its nice smooth black top I'm up in smoke. if its a roughed section of a side street it just launches and the front end gets light.
 
Haven't found one I couldn't get up yet. The wifes 05 was the hardest when it was still stock and lowered 2.5" in the front and 1.5" in the rear. Still came up with a weight shift.

Kevins was actually pretty hard too. It's lowered 2" in the front, 1.5" rear, and stretched 3". It doesn't like the landings!

Sean
 
I have a Venture drive, which I sure curtails some of the unicycle action. Still, going balls out on the 1-2 shift, the front usually picks up an inch or two, smooth as can be, and sets itself down again totally smooth. I actually didn't notice it the first time it happened...someone riding a bit behind me asked me afterward if I knew I wheelied on the on-ramp.

Smashing it in first just results in a burnout for me. ME880 tires helped tremendously in the hook-up....with the old avon venom it would spin spin spin all the way to the top of third gear. The Metz hooks up hard as soon as you grab second.
 
Before lowering the front forks (Actually, Sean Did It) mine was really quick to spin the rear with 1 up and lift the front wheel with 2 up. On occasion it did both with 1 up... Now it's much more controllable.


Dave my rear tire must be shot, because in second gear at 35 or 40 mph or so "If I wack the throttle WFO the rear tire immediately goes up in smoke for a while, then gradually gains traction and the front tire will catch some air,then a shift brings it down". Maybe I need a little more ass, I tip the scales at about 155 lbs. I think in February I'll eat nothing but Burrito's for breakfast,lunch and dinner and see if that helps! :eusa_dance:

Bill
 
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