Rear wheel bearing numbers

[Sidecarjohn]

OK, know this has featured before, so apologies, but an associated query.

Acquired a rear wheel with an hardly worn tyre at a very good price. However, knowing the wheel had stood for some time, decided attention beyond cleaning made sense. Replacing wheel bearings and seals seems sensible.

Job going well with ball bearing extracted and no issues. Not so for the needle roller bearing. Reference to the Haynes manual clearly questionable as I now have broken bearing internals, but the outer race still to be removed. Appreciate what is required to do the deal (I hope) from information on the forum, but remaining problem, I.e. identifying the needle roller bearing.

So, can any member provide the bearing reference numbers (not Yamaha part numbers) for the VMax rear wheel. I've identified numbers on the two seals and ball bearing, although even here confirmation would be gratefully accepted.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I never found a substitute for that needle bearing, im afraid you'll have to bite the bullet or rebore the wheel to accept a slightly bigger outer racer.

 

[CaptainKyle]

I never found a substitute for that needle bearing, im afraid you'll have to bite the bullet or rebore the wheel to accept a slightly bigger outer racer.

Pivot works makes a complete kit needle bearing included & all seals. I have used them & had no problems. I might even have a kit out here if I dig around.

 

[Sidecarjohn]

Thanks for responses.
If I have to bite the bullet, so be it, the wheel was a cheap buy. The fact that the needle roller bearing is a Yamaha only part fascinates, reminds me of some bearings on past owned Brit iron.
Certainly interested if a kit is available, Captain, or being pointed in the right direction.
Meanwhile must get extraction of the old needle outer race organised.

 

[rdbul]

Any recommendations on removing the needle bearing? I have a blind puller but that F'er just laughed at it.

The roller came out with no drama at all

Getting that rotor off was not fun either.

 

[[email protected]]

I use a blind bearing puller without issue. The local auto parts has a free tool loaner program.

I've heard of guys breaking out the inner race then collapsing the outer race inwards.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

some heat on the alloy outside. The racer can be seized in there. iirc it should have a lip on the inside, try to hit it with a chisel from the opposite side through the hub

 

[rdbul]

Soaked the thing in PB Blaster last night. I bought an 1 1/4" rigid plumbing coupling to keep the feet of the puller from digging into the top of the bearing cavity. Heated cautious amount with my little MAP gas torch, turned on the puller.

Presto, slid right out!

Heading to the powder coater tomorrow

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Isolate everything you don't want pcoat on otherwise you will regret it a LOT

 

[rdbul]

How?

I can only assume this requires something more than masking tape.....

 

[wildweasel_pt]

He can do it by cleaning it with a swab while it's only powder or you can isolate using aluminum tape that does not burn.

 

[rdbul]

Thanks for the heads up. Once I got past the PC guys "I do this all the time" nonsense, he agreed to mask off/ plug the centers and the holes and surfaces the rotor mounts to. Now I just need to get replacement rotor bolts. There is only one of those bastards I would consider reusing, I think the last guy that had them out (or maybe the guy in Japan) used a whole bottle of blue loctite on them.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Bolts are cheap. I would recommend SS button head. M8 is the size. Or you can get any other set as long it's not Yamaha. That sucks

 

[rdbul]

Can someone who has had their rear wheel powder coated confirm that it is unnecessary to remove the rubbers for the cush drive?

The PC guy told me I was nuts for leaving them in. I've read in another post that they can stay in and come through the oven with out being damaged. I just spent and 1.5 frustrating hours in failed attempts to get them out.

GRRRRRRRR:bang head:

 

[one2dmax]

They will be just fine leaving them in. We've left them in for powdercoating and even chrome work. No reason at all to remove them. They are not standard rubber and will easily survive the 400+ degrees required to get the coating to melt. I think we've even redone the wheels with them in which takes 600+ degrees to burn off the plastic coating.

Sean

 

[rdbul]

Great Answer. Thank You Sean.

I'm printing your response, I'll take it to the guy tomorrow. I get that he feels he is just looking out for me. So I'll thank him for being concerned.

I do still need bolts. The stainless ones I found at my go-to hardware place have a socket head that is smaller than the necessary 6mm for me to fit the magnets for my hall effect speedometer. And new stock ones are ridiculously priced.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

You can get a hex head with a magnet embedded on eBay.

 

[rdbul]

Got the rear wheel back. Rubbers are fine and it looks very good. Had a Avon Cobra 170 mounted, it handles great. Had to get Black Oxide Socket Cap Allen fasteners for the rotors which look fine. The back of the bike is starting to shape up. Next year It'll get swing arm bracing and rework of the rear brake, then I'll have all that stuff powder coated also.

Thanks for the help guys

 

[[email protected]]

Looks good.
Black Oxide tends to rust quickly. I'd consider another choice if you plan on getting the bike wet.