Rear wheel set up

[genecarroll]

This doesn't look correct to me. Advice please.

 

[Streetfighterkz]

I think you are missing a washer between the caliper bracket and swingarm.

EDIT: 92903-20600-00 is the missing part number.

Later, Doug

 

[gamorg02]

but it could be the washer swap had been done:

http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/fat_tire_installation.htm

 

[Streetfighterkz]

but it could be the washer swap had been done:

If that was true, I don't think there should be a gap.

Later, Doug

 

[genecarroll]

I saw it looked like the washer was missing and the axle looks to far in. The bike was like that when I got it and I only looked at it because my rear brakes hum when braking the pads look good then I saw that. Anyone have one don't really want to pay 10 dollars in shipping for a 2 dollar washer

 

[Miles Long]

Yup, the spacer is missing.
I'm working on my bike's rear end at present, making lowering blocks for the rear shocks. If you need any pics or dimensions, let me know. I'm running an all-stock arrangement, including tire size.
Cheers!

 

[satariel666]

Push the axle towards and problem solved. Indeed you are missing a washer bo no biggie.

 

[gamorg02]

i'm not sure the gap is a big deal? if things were left loose, ie the pinch bolt until the axle was tight and thats the gap that appeared then its just how it wants to sit eh?

it probably shouldn't but if thats how it sits when relaxed...

 

[[email protected]]

Omitting that washer will NOT hurt anything. As noted, the axle just pulls through a bit more.

The washer is there to serve a purpose. The brake caliper bracket is aluminum. The shoulder on the axle is steel. The shoulder has a small OD. If you tighten up the axle to the torque spec, the small OD of the axle shoulder could possibly dig into the caliper bracket. The washer prevents this by giving a larger surface area to spread the load created when the axle nut is torqued.

I have been running without this washer for some time with no issues. I do not torque the axle nut to 80 ft lbs or whatever the spec is. I just make it "tight". Haven't had any problems.

The only reason I don't use the washer is because I have a PCW shock relocation bracket and a shim on the outside of the differential. I use the old style (long) axle and eliminated the washer in order to have enough threads sticking out of the differential to get a full nut.

On another note, make sure the bearing spacer is present. Hard to tell if its there in the photo. It goes into the oil seal and rides between the wheel bearing and caliper bracket

 

[satariel666]

i'm not sure the gap is a big deal? if things were left loose, ie the pinch bolt until the axle was tight and thats the gap that appeared then its just how it wants to sit eh?

it probably shouldn't but if thats how it sits when relaxed...

The axle itselfs has a lot of clearance on the pumpkin side so no worries.
I was running without this pointless washer since i remember and thats a lot LOL

What can happed?You can snap the gear spline if you will let it loose
but for that you will need a lot of offset..I mean a lot aroud half of an inch.
Wheel can move sideways cousing the turining wobbles. Thats the black scenario.

I would say him push the axle towards, torque the nut and then torque the right side
allen bolt to secure the axle. Done.

Omitting that washer will NOT hurt anything. As noted, the axle just pulls through a bit more.

The washer is there to serve a purpose. The brake caliper bracket is aluminum. The shoulder on the axle is steel. The shoulder has a small OD. If you tighten up the axle to the torque spec, the small OD of the axle shoulder could possibly dig into the caliper bracket. The washer prevents this by giving a larger surface area to spread the load created when the axle nut is torqued.

On another note, make sure the bearing spacer is present. Hard to tell if its there in the photo. It goes into the oil seal and rides between the wheel bearing and caliper bracket

The washer is there to be the one big pita...but anyways your explanation is very solid. Gotta +1 to that.

 

[gamorg02]

Omitting that washer will NOT hurt anything. As noted, the axle just pulls through a bit more.

The washer is there to serve a purpose. The brake caliper bracket is aluminum. The shoulder on the axle is steel. The shoulder has a small OD. If you tighten up the axle to the torque spec, the small OD of the axle shoulder could possibly dig into the caliper bracket. The washer prevents this by giving a larger surface area to spread the load created when the axle nut is torqued.

I have been running without this washer for some time with no issues. I do not torque the axle nut to 80 ft lbs or whatever the spec is. I just make it "tight". Haven't had any problems.

The only reason I don't use the washer is because I have a PCW shock relocation bracket and a shim on the outside of the differential. I use the old style (long) axle and eliminated the washer in order to have enough threads sticking out of the differential to get a full nut.

On another note, make sure the bearing spacer is present. Hard to tell if its there in the photo. It goes into the oil seal and rides between the wheel bearing and caliper bracket

i agree too as i remember mine was tight when i eliminated it, took an extra few hits of my deadblow to get the axle out, but hey i was ok with it for a 190 radial.