Removing clear coat

[yukonerdave]

I'd like to powdercoat most of the aluminum parts on the front end (fork brace, triples, etc.). I'm wondering how to best remove the clearcoat in order to prep the pieces. Bead blasting is working, but I've got a small compressor and its taking a long time. Also, should I reapply clearcoat after the powdercoating, or is the powder durable enough on its own? Depends in part on the type of powder I suppose. I'm using a "mirror black".

 

[KJShover]

I'd like to powdercoat most of the aluminum parts on the front end (fork brace, triples, etc.). I'm wondering how to best remove the clearcoat in order to prep the pieces. Bead blasting is working, but I've got a small compressor and its taking a long time. Also, should I reapply clearcoat after the powdercoating, or is the powder durable enough on its own? Depends in part on the type of powder I suppose. I'm using a "mirror black".

I use a chemical paint remover. then wash it with metal cleaner and bead blast it. I picked it up in the paint section at the local hardware store. The powder is durable enough on it's own. After you get the metal all clean, heat it up. that will leach more of the impurities out of the aluminum. Then clean it once more wih a non-oil based metal cleaner ( I use the stuff from eastwood in the green can, just mix it up with some water and there ya go). then your ready to PC

 

[MoPure]

Dave,
I've not had good luck with clears and transluscents. They are okay if they're not used in high handling or heat/cool cycled parts, otherwise they tend to crack alot. That's my experience anyway. Most powders don't need to be topcoated, but ones with alot of metallic content do. You should be fine with mirror black. Have you tried wrinkle black yet? That's one of my favorites.

Dale