replacing coolant

[VFR080]

I'm new here at this forum. I have gotten a lot of good information from here and it has helped a ton rebuilding my engine. Thanks I just got finished rebuilding my motor last night.

Today I put oil and coolant in and it started right up. :http://www.vmaxforum.net/new smilies/clapping.gifbiglaugh:

My question is, When putting the coolant in the bike by the book how long should it take for the coolant level to drop like the manual says?

I do believe that I have the valve in the correct position. The "ON" is suppose to in the 1 o'clock position until the coolant level stabilizes. Is that right? When the bike was running the level actually increased. I'm wondering if I had the valve in the wrong spot.

Then...after the level stabilizes, you should cap it up, fill the coolant tank, and put the valve to the "OFF" position right?

Again Thanks for all the advice and information

 

[tfisher65]

I see this original post never received any feed back so hear goes...

I just replaced my coolant today, the level only dropped a small amount during the first few minutes and while bleeding out the air. I then replaced the cap and ran it for a few minutes more. Then let it cool where it sucked some more out of the reservoir. Checked under the cap one more time, topped it off and called it a day.
The drain **** with the "ON" at the 1 o'clock is correct to drain (ball bearing in the top hole). "OFF" is when the ball bearing is in the bottom hole or off at 1 o'clock. IMO the drain **** really serves no purpose being the way it's designed. There is only one o-ring that stops the coolant from leaking out the front of the drain ****. The drain **** it's self is just a friction fit that is not water tight. If you pull the water pump drain bolt without turning the drain **** to "ON", the radiator still drains. When the coolant had stopped draining I turned the drain **** to "ON" and nothing more came out. I took the drain **** out to confirm it's function and little coolant came out with it. And forget the Clymer manual, it talks about draining coolant from the drain **** which is completely wrong.
Anyways, "OFF" at 1 o'clock is correct once ready to fill and operate.

P.S. I used Honda Automotive coolant Type 2 (Blue). Only one in town I could find that was Silicate free.

 

[UnclePhilthy]

I did mine last week as well.... no issues, just wanted to put in fresh coolant, and see what the original looked like...

My 2K has no 'on/off' valve, just pulled the cap, drained at pump, removed and drained the reservoir... then refilled after a couple flushes with distilled water... Old stuff seemed real clean...but afik, it was at least 8 years in the bike.

Noticed when I restarted to circulate the added new coolant, that there were bubbles coming to the top...kinda freaked me out, thinking possible leaky head gaskets or cracks...but they semed to go away after awhile...

My 'new' coolant was bought at at a local parts store...says it is a type that requires no H2o added in with it... I figured no water would mean little to no chance of corrosion down the road... it's NOT antifreeze, although it states that it's compatable, if you live where antifreeze is necessary...

Since the change, bike runs normal temps, and seems fine...

What is "silicate", and why would that be a problem/threat?....

Thanks y'all.... Philthy

 

[tfisher65]

Silicate is used as a corrosion inhibitor in many coolants. It has been claimed to prematurely wear out water pump seals.
Philthy, I assume the product you used is compatible for use with aluminum engines?

 

[UnclePhilthy]

"Silicate is used as a corrosion inhibitor in many coolants. It has been claimed to prematurely wear out water pump seals. Philthy, I assume the product you used is compatible for use with aluminum engines?"

Sir...I honestly don't know.... It's a product I bought at a local 'Autozone'... marketed by "Freezone". I see nothing on the 1 gal container regarding any silicates... but there are added 'corrosion inhibitors' in it... Please advise asap...


Thanks, and standing by...


Philthy

 

[m-cman]

I have been using Havoline Dex-Cool and distilled water in all my water cooled engines for years. It is silicate and phosphate free. I compare my engine temp on my 97 with my friends 2006 with original coolant and my bike runs cooler and the fan comes on much less that his. This is in Dallas heat and checking the temp gauge at stop lights when side by side. His temp gauge always reads about 1/8 to 3/16" hotter. This is not scientific testing but a reasonable comparison.

 

[tfisher65]

I have tried to find this product you speak of online but without success so I cannot comment. Sorry.

Trevor

"Silicate is used as a corrosion inhibitor in many coolants. It has been claimed to prematurely wear out water pump seals. Philthy, I assume the product you used is compatible for use with aluminum engines?"

Sir...I honestly don't know.... It's a product I bought at a local 'Autozone'... marketed by "Freezone". I see nothing on the 1 gal container regarding any silicates... but there are added 'corrosion inhibitors' in it... Please advise asap...


Thanks, and standing by...


Philthy

 

[UnclePhilthy]

Trev... Thanks much..sorry for the delay in getting back...PC problems..all better for now... I'll retrieve the empty container from the garage later on today, and get you better more complete info as to what it is for sure...

m-cman...I thank you too much for that info... I can relate to Dallas heat...been there many times...Tampa Bay ain't a lot better Mah Fren'...maybe a little lower temps...but still mucho hot n' humid... One of the first 'mods' I did to Lil' Mari was to 'install' a fan switch...and I USE it often in traffic...never have had the needle go past the halfway point since.

L8R! Philthy

 

[UnclePhilthy]

OK Trev... here ya go... this is the product I bought. Not freezone as I had stated. Take a look and tell me if I f'ed up... Using straight out of the container..w/no water added.. The one I bought is the 'yellow/orange' container at the top of the page.

http://www.freezetone-usa.com/ecologicalproducts.html

Thanks again,

Philthy

 

[tfisher65]

What you used is an Anti-freeze additive that is to be used in place of water. It states it can be used without mixing with anti-freeze in mild climates where freezing is not an issue (make sure you keep the bike above the freezing point). Other than that it does not state it's properties other than it meets ASTM D-1384 standard which is a standard that sets corrosion properties.
Sorry I can't be much more help. They really don't advertise the specific properties of the product (even through Google).

Cheers,
Trevor

 

[UnclePhilthy]

Trevor... Thanks again for checking this out... I can only say there are some 'ugly' lookin' chems in there listed on the back of the container...I won't bother to post them...

Going to go with our pard's advise from Dallas, and do it his way...his '96 seems real fine and running cool as well... main thing I'm trying to acheive is a good coolant (mixture or not), that is least likely to cause oxidation, and will stay clean... I think he's hit on it pretty good.

Take care y'all, and thanks again for the sage advise...

Uncle Philthy

 

[ssnsltd]

I have used the freezone for a few years in cars I have/own (family included) and it as best I can tell works fine.
for my v-max i just changed over to Blue Ice or Engine Ice. this stuff works pretty darn good.

 

[ace16a]

I'm replacing the coolant in my bike and came to draining the cylinders by removing a rubber plug in the side of each. How do I get that plug out without ruining it?

 

[maleko89]

Thread one of your spark plugs into it and pull.

 

[Robbarrie]

I never pulled the cyl plugs, I just used a high pressure garden hose and with the rad off I just flushed with normal tap water ( we don't have soft water either ) and then added my distilled water and antifreeze mix.

If you change your coolant every 2 years you should be fine. If you find that your having heat problems - change your thermostat. For me that was my problem - sometimes it would run hot and other times it seemed ok. It didn't make a difference too much on the weather either. They do fail...trust me.

There is a thread I posted a while back on a cheaper NAPA replacement with the part #. It worked fantastic and has been ever since.