Rotella T6 Made My clutch go out!!!!

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Semi239

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So went for a ride today. Toward the end of the ride, I noticed some significant clutch slippage. Previously Ive had issues with leaking valve cover gaskets. After washing it one day I found a gap larges enough that I could've taken on water. I corrected it and moved on. Well I dumped the oil out after my ride and found it be very milky like I got some water in there.

Decided to go with Rotella T6 for the new oil. After the refill, the clutch is worse than ever! I cant go into gear without lurching forward and very very tough to shift the gears.

What does the forum say?

Attached is what I put in it.
 

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    20230812_205929.jpg
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ou need to change that out to the T4 non synthetic stuff
I was hoping my title would get a good response out of you! ;)

So my mistake was in which Rotella I got. I read that old thread from like 2015 and I thought it was all acceptable. Must have been wrong.

I'll find some T4 non-synthetic for it.
Do I need a new clutch? Or will a good flush get the job done?
 
Do I need a new clutch? Or will a good flush get the job done?
Usually a change to another oil which has proven to work like the Shell Rotella non-synthetic mentioned by Sean Morley will be able to restore the proper friction disc behavior.
 
I was hoping my title would get a good response out of you! ;)

So my mistake was in which Rotella I got. I read that old thread from like 2015 and I thought it was all acceptable. Must have been wrong.

I'll find some T4 non-synthetic for it.
Do I need a new clutch? Or will a good flush get the job done?
I would run some cheap 30 w from dollar store to flush it out more. Then take clutch apart and clean all clutch disc. Don't want milky oil on them. That is why clutch is slipping
 
Rotella T4 is fairly inexpensive with todays oil prices. Glad to hear your clutch is back.
 
I have not gotten my 85 that's been sitting for 23years up and running. Yet
But I have an 86 fj that is now a 1350 that has 176hp and 117ftlbs on crank dyno. Been running t6 for years. Can walk it sideways on one wheel. Comming out of a roundy round. In second. Never noticed any slippage. But I do have a Barnett pressure plate.
I've been running it in all of my bikes. And never noticed it. I run it because that's what I run in my diesel. I currently have 13 bikes. Will probably run it in my other project a turbo 86 fj. Should be about 220-230hp. Will be a billet basket and a Barnett plate. But good to know that t4 seems less likely to slip. If I do have problems.
 
Huh. I don't drag race the thing, not overly abusive, but look - there are no shrinking violet Vmax owners. Guru tuned and etc, it's run 15W-40 T6 in it for years. It's MA and MA2, and I have no problems at all.

Except Sean just voted against it. I don't know the man, but I know he knows more than I do about VMAX's. Or ever will know.

Sean, would you elaborate a bit? Am I just getting lucky?
 
I think the synthetic friction modifiers affect the VMax clutch plate friction discs. ZDDP in the Rotella mineral-based oils is what a wet clutch needs to behave.
 
I really appreciate the knowledge sharing on this site. I am certain I will need lots of this advice as I get back into riding.

This is a great community that shares a passion for riding and VMAX. :)
 
I tried a lot of different oils (even coloured oils ... blue, red and a bunch of different brands in my Barnett clutch equipped 2001 VMax with Otec, see-through side covers. I have not tried Rotella although I am sure it is fine as many can attest. I had clutch problems every time, sometimes it would work for awhile before starting to slip. Each time, I returned to Yamalube and perfect function returned. Now, I just stick to Yamalube and have never had any issues whatsoever.
 
After reading all the very good advice i decided to source some Rotella t4 non synth: Well , i cant find any here (Philippines ) and its as rare as rockin horse do-das in the UK also ! Anybody in Australia got some ?
 
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