Rough Rider

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blankman

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My Max is the roughest MC I have ever rode. Tense up every time I see a tar strip coming up. Shakes my fillings out. Any way to tame this thing or is that just the nature of it?
 
Yep, stock shocks suck....same can be said of fork springs. Get a set of Progressive springs or do Racetech with gold valve emulators up front. Progressive shocks are a lot better too. If you can afford it, look into Works shocks.
 
Yes!

what tires are you running? Worn Dunlop Qualifiers? Trash them and get some Shinkos or Metzelers instead.

What suspension do you have - stock front and rear? Front better springs and heavier oil (15W) help a lot, rear everybody seems to like Progressive shocks.

And finally, what's your mileage? The max is a HEAVY bike, and things such as steering and wheel bearings suffer. Quite inexpensive to replace, and what a difference..
 
What tires? When I got mine it had those old Dunlops on it, and it felt awful. Every line and every bump and every cat's eye and other road irregularities I could feel and made it twitch. I was quite worried since I already had (older) Progressive shocks and Progressive springs in the forks.

But since fitting the new Shinko T230 Tourmaster tires, it's been SO MUCH better. I can't recommend them enough - cheap as hell and V-rated too.
 
+ + on the shinko rear tire, looking to get one for the front myself.
+ + on the Progressive spring for the forks. I used the progressive lowering spring kit and lowered the front by 2", I really like the lowered look vs. stock pogo stick looking forks. I need to get rid of the stock rear and get the progressive 440"s.

Catseye - view of a cat when it's walking away from you......:biglaugh:
 
If I was to change the fork springs without anything else being done (oil) can they be removed and installed without pulling the wheel, brakes, ect. In other words will the old springs come out the top and be exchanged?
 
Yep! I would jack the front end up to get the pressure off the springs. Then, remove the fork caps. Next, lower jack all the way so it's easier to get to the preload spacer, spring seat, and spring. Use a long pick tool or coat hanger to remove spring and seat.
 
Having just done my own forks while I did my steering head bearings, I can say that it's actually quite easy removing the front wheel, fender, brakes and forks altogether, and it made it a lot easier to handle everything. Also it's prolly a great idea to renew the fork oil, and it's a lot easier to drain the old oil completely from the top with the forks removed and stood upside down.

If you decide to not remove the forks, when you have the bike on its center stand, be really careful when lowering the front with the jack like Mark said, as it's very easy to go past the forward balancing point and have the bike fall forward off the stand!

Also, if you go that way, remember you must loosen the top yoke pinch bolts before attempting to remove the fork caps.
 
Thanks. Gonna give it a whirl. Lots of springs available. What brand would you recommend? And how important to improving the ride is changing the weight of the oil?
 
I dunno what oil was in my bike when I got it, but I just went to 15W and I like it a lot - more damping and less dive under breaking - it feels good.

I have Progressive springs and they are good, but then have no comparison as my bike came with them already in.

When choosing springs, remember that you can lower the bike by using shorter springs, and that lower front usually means better handling.
 
Progressive springs seem very popular, I'm pleased with mine. If you want to stick with stock length springs, dropping the triple tree down the tubes a little can change handling also by making the steering 'quicker.'

While you are going to the work of doing this front end mod, unless they have been recently replaced, doing your fork seals and boots is a good idea.

Just think how pissed you'll be if your fork seals start leaking a week after doing all this other stuff. :bang head:
 
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