$&%#! Rounded Fork Cap

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Klatuu

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
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Location
Kennesaw, GA
I'm installing a Progressive fork lowering kit into my 1993 Max, and everything was going well, albeit very slow, and then tragedy struck. Yep. It was already beat up pretty good, but I think I've got it just about perfectly round now. There's some flat left, but not much.

My questions are:

  1. What's the best way to get it off?
  2. If getting it off doesn't destroy it, can I use it until I get a replacement?
  3. Where's the best source to get one (speed of delivery is a major factor, but I'm not paying triple so I can have it 2 days sooner)?
Thanks in advance.
 
I'm installing a Progressive fork lowering kit into my 1993 Max, and everything was going well, albeit very slow, and then tragedy struck. Yep. It was already beat up pretty good, but I think I've got it just about perfectly round now. There's some flat left, but not much.

My questions are:

  1. What's the best way to get it off?
  2. If getting it off doesn't destroy it, can I use it until I get a replacement?
  3. Where's the best source to get one (speed of delivery is a major factor, but I'm not paying triple so I can have it 2 days sooner)?
Thanks in advance.

That sux Klatuu...hate it when a project goes sour like that! :bang head:

1. Think I would try a Dremel and grind the flats back so a socket would fit
2. Depends on how well #1 turns out, just lube the threads good so it won't bind.
3. Sean Morley would probably have one...look for his banner on this site.

Good luck...welcome to the site.
 
I have one. Get the old one off anyway you can. You can even get a welder to give you something to grip too if needed. We can overnight or regular ship.

Sean
 
The Grip-Tite sockets don't go big enough :(. It takes a 22mm and they stop @ 19mm.

Sean, thanks for the heads up on the new cap, but I had already ordered one. A couple other components looked borderline on the other fork leg as I was doing it, so I went ahead and ordered that stuff, too. I'm sure I'll be doing more bidness with you soon, however :).

I have to let the bike sit for a few days while I'm out of town, and won't get back to it until next Tuesday, I'll post an update with detail on how I dealt with this so future [strike]fat fingered idiots[/strike], er, mechanically challenged motorcyclists, will know what at least one option is.
 
I had the same thing happen to me when I put my race tech springs in. I ended up using an air hammer with a chisel bit and worked it around, as soon as it started moving it spun out easily, almost like the seal was seized to the for tube.

Richard
 
Update for solution:

After unscrewing the air valve from the center of the bolt, I used a screw extractor -
1918242.jpg
- to reverse the cap out of the inner fork tube. I just tapped in in the hole with a finish hammer, then wrenched it out with vise grips.

Upon inspection, I found out I was doomed from the start. There was a build-up of rust & corrosion running about 1/3 of the way around the inside of the fork tube that made taking the cap off with an impact wrench an exercise in futility.

On the upside, It looks like I did the fork lowering/seal replacement properly. I've been riding the bike for a couple weeks now and it's just fine.
 
Update for solution:

After unscrewing the air valve from the center of the bolt, I used a screw extractor -
1918242.jpg
- to reverse the cap out of the inner fork tube. I just tapped in in the hole with a finish hammer, then wrenched it out with vise grips.

Upon inspection, I found out I was doomed from the start. There was a build-up of rust & corrosion running about 1/3 of the way around the inside of the fork tube that made taking the cap off with an impact wrench an exercise in futility.

On the upside, It looks like I did the fork lowering/seal replacement properly. I've been riding the bike for a couple weeks now and it's just fine.

great news!
 
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