Ruff idle after 25 miles at a stop light.

[jagco1]

Link to chart

http://www.electrosport.com/technica...ng-diagram.pdf

Go to the last page, paragraph beginning "stop the engine"
These are tests with the bike not running.
You have to disconnect the three wires coming from the stator to perform them.
As I said previously, do the tests with the bike cold, reconnect, start and warm up the bike till you see the voltage drop, shut the bike off, disconnect and do the tests again.
If everything checks out, you can go ahead and perform the running test for A.C voltage, as described after the above tests on the chart. Again, the three wires have to be disconnected to perform this test. What you are looking for is at least 50 volts A.C. across each combination of wires, at about 5000 rpm. The voltages should be approximately the same for each measurement.
BE CAREFUL DOING THIS TEST! SHOCKS ARE A DEFINITE HAZARD!
Again like I already mentioned, my bike was showing the same symptoms as yours. I performed all the tests on the Electrosport chart, everything checked out O.K. What I didn't do is believe the last line of the chart.....
which says "if everything is O.K, problem must be a bad battery"
So I replaced the stator, which didn't solve the problem. Then I replaced the battery, and everything became normal.
The good part about this is that I put in a aftermarket stator that puts out more watts than the O.E.M., and managed to tighten the three starter clutch bolts, that were beginning to loosen up.
Good luck, and.......Cheers!

Man thanks I just read this after I started on the bike....
Man this would a trip if it is the battery. It seem good..... I will go back out and do some more checking.

 

[jfeagins]

R/R's get hot. They shunt excess voltage to ground. That creates heat. That's why newer, better ones have cooling fins.

Replace R/R IMO.

 

[Miles Long]

I was able to work on the bike some today.... I went through a lot of the wiring everything seem good.

I pulled the r/r white wires out of the black plug and the bike run off the battery.
I check voltage at the stator black plug wiring - I'm getting 72 AC volts at 5000 rpms if I go up higher it will hit AC 80 to 84 6000 rpm is this to high..... At 4000 rpms volts 60..... r/r gets hot I rev it to 6500rpm it hit 85 volts ......

Volts DC start dropping down to 12.4 from 14.2 volts when motor gets hot...

I'm thinking stator is putting to much voltage.... I check all through the black wiring with the voltage probe.

AC volts at idle at the stator wiring...

I check my r/r for AC voltage at the battery no AC volts going through.... only DC volts...

So I'm thinking stator putting out to much volts AC...
Pics below

The chart only says that you should see greater than 50 volts AC across all three wire combinations.... your stator appears to be healthy, although at any given rpm the readings should be approximately the same - such as 65, 68, 63 @ 5000rpm, 86, 82, 84 @ 7000rpm, etc. (just arbitrary numbers out of my head)
Don't worry about not seeing any AC voltage at the battery. That means the rectifier portion of the RR is doing it's thing...converting AC to DC voltage.

I see in your last post that you are going to do more testing, such as the ohms readings phase to phase and phase to ground (cold and hot testing)
I'm guessing that you are not going to find anything wrong with the stator.
If so, I would take your battery into a supply shop and have it load-tested.

If you have a meter capable of testing diodes, the Electrosport chart gives directions how to do this. You can at least assure yourself that these components of the RR are functioning well.
Cheers!

 

[jagco1]

The chart only says that you should see greater than 50 volts AC across all three wire combinations.... your stator appears to be healthy, although at any given rpm the readings should be approximately the same - such as 65, 68, 63 @ 5000rpm, 86, 82, 84 @ 7000rpm, etc. (just arbitrary numbers out of my head)
Don't worry about not seeing any AC voltage at the battery. That means the rectifier portion of the RR is doing it's thing...converting AC to DC voltage.

I see in your last post that you are going to do more testing, such as the ohms readings phase to phase and phase to ground (cold and hot testing)
I'm guessing that you are not going to find anything wrong with the stator.
If so, I would take your battery into a supply shop and have it load-tested.

If you have a meter capable of testing diodes, the Electrosport chart gives directions how to do this. You can at least assure yourself that these components of the RR are functioning well.
Cheers!

Just making sure - so at 5000 rpms I'm getting 72 AC volts on all 3 black wires
is this to high or ok.... 6000 rpms it hits around 85 volts all 3 black wires.

 

[Miles Long]

Just making sure - so at 5000 rpms I'm getting 72 AC volts on all 3 black wires
is this to high or ok.... 6000 rpms it hits around 85 volts all 3 black wires.

I checked both the OEM service manual, and the Clymer - neither specify maximum AC voltage, only no-load DC voltage measured at the battery terminals (14-15 volts).
You stated that you are measuring within this range when the bike is cold. So overcharging is not your problem. Regardless of what the stator is "putting out" at various rpm's, the regulator is controlling the voltage reaching the battery, as well as rectifying the voltage to DC
I don't remember the exact numbers, but when I tested my stator for AC voltage, I saw numbers similar to yours - above 70 volts at higher rpms.
Do the stator resistance test and stator wire to ground continuity test, both when the bike is stone cold, and after warming it up.
Of course there should be no continuity at any temperature.
The manual specifies 0.33-0.48 ohms resistance between wires at 68f.
Continuity or resistance out of specification would indicate a bad stator, which may be the case after your stator has warmed up.
So first eliminate the stator as the cause of your problem, by doing the above tests.
If all is well, I'd first suspect the battery. Only a "load-test" will determine how good the battery is.
If the battery checks out, next try a known good RR.
Cheers!

 

[VMAX1260]

take out the a/f screw blow some air put them back in with the same rounds you made to take them off. and i think you will b fine

 

[VMAX Eddie]

I'm no expert on vehicle wiring but was an electrician and systems technician for quite some years. First thing I'd do is swap the battery out if you have another around just to eliminate that. I've seen all sorts of screwy things happen to low voltage electrical systems with bad batteries from ground faults to just about every other type of problem you wouldn't think a bad battery would cause. Doesn't matter if the battery is new, some just come **** from the factory or crap out for whatever reason, heat, electrical spike, or short in the system can do that as well.

Then I'd disconnect everything I could where you think the problem is, wire brush/scrape/clean all the connections and tighten all the crimp connectors, both where they connect to their wires and the inside of the connectors themselves wherever possible, to make sure they are all good and tight. If you target a potentially bad one stick your meter on it and check resistance end to end and wiggle it (a pencil eraser also works well to clean the flat connectors). Need to disconnect both ends for accurate resistance readings though. And I don't mean just the stupid beeeeeep to say you have continuity. I mean set the meter to 200 kiloohms and see what you get. Anything above say 20k and you're not getting a good connection, if not lower.

The specifics of the Max wiring I can't help you with, but that's just some of the basics to consider. Sounds like you're up to your elbows in wiring and trying to decipher strange readings and probably need to step back and look for a more simple answer. To me it sounds like something is simply not getting a solid connection. Heat and cooling is changing the metal and causing problems. It could be a component like others have suggested too. Just my .02

 

[ImCannibal]

Just to be safe, eliminate any crimp connectors you might have by cutting them out and solder the wire ends together then heat shrink them, crimp connectors have a bad habit of giving resistance or developing resistance over time. I've eliminated all of mine, including the brass looking harness connector, upgraded my r/r, upgraded to a shorai lithium battery and swapped all my lights over to led and now my voltmeter (permanent install in front of my gauges) will read 14.7v while warmed up and at cruising speed. Just a suggestion.

 

[jagco1]

I'm no expert on vehicle wiring but was an electrician and systems technician for quite some years. First thing I'd do is swap the battery out if you have another around just to eliminate that. I've seen all sorts of screwy things happen to low voltage electrical systems with bad batteries from ground faults to just about every other type of problem you wouldn't think a bad battery would cause. Doesn't matter if the battery is new, some just come **** from the factory or crap out for whatever reason, heat, electrical spike, or short in the system can do that as well.

Then I'd disconnect everything I could where you think the problem is, wire brush/scrape/clean all the connections and tighten all the crimp connectors, both where they connect to their wires and the inside of the connectors themselves wherever possible, to make sure they are all good and tight. If you target a potentially bad one stick your meter on it and check resistance end to end and wiggle it (a pencil eraser also works well to clean the flat connectors). Need to disconnect both ends for accurate resistance readings though. And I don't mean just the stupid beeeeeep to say you have continuity. I mean set the meter to 200 kiloohms and see what you get. Anything above say 20k and you're not getting a good connection, if not lower.

The specifics of the Max wiring I can't help you with, but that's just some of the basics to consider. Sounds like you're up to your elbows in wiring and trying to decipher strange readings and probably need to step back and look for a more simple answer. To me it sounds like something is simply not getting a solid connection. Heat and cooling is changing the metal and causing problems. It could be a component like others have suggested too. Just my .02

Did a lot of the checking the wiring through out the bike... man did the ohm test ground, ground test, AC volts test and the stator, AC volts at the battery witch my other bike r/r went out AC volt went to the battery and over heat it 2 years ago... I'm going to order a new battery this morning... and have the old check out.... Man on the vmax wiring is not the best compared to my other the bike thicker wiring....

Thanks to all again for you help..... I will keep you posted

 

[eggohead]

Mine does it also at times. Not all the time. I do use SeaFoam and notice it seems to help. I blame the fuel....

 

[jagco1]

Man I had the battery check, they check it 3 times it check out ok, When I was leaving he called me back to check it 1 more time a little longer load test and the battery volts slowly started dropping.... He said man any 1 would have miss this.... it like intermittent almost it's holding then not. My baby girl said she jump start her bike of mind a few days... and spark the plus post. When she had her bike over here.... maybe something happen then.

Me happy now....

Thanks guy's

Mileslong thanks for checking in the - manuals for the voltage.