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I think you'll find that the leak is coming from the rubber plug that sits under the cylinder side plates on the cylinder. I've attached a picture.
The rubber plug becomes hard and rigid after a few years and will start to leak if they are disturbed.
I also notice you have after market cylinder side covers. I don't know when these were fitted but they may not be exerting enough compression on your rubber seal.
Take the cover off and see if the seal has been leaking.
If it has, drain the coolant and replace the seals on all four cylinders.
It's also a good idea to check the condition of all the rubber coolant lines on your bike as these are probably as old as the cylinder seals and may also be hardened and brittle.
You don't want to blow a coolant line.
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I took the cylinder side plates off and found no leaking of the seal.
the leak that I have is very small about the size of a dime overnight and only after I ride it.
After I ride it, there is a very small amount of oil right on the crack right where the arrows are in the pic.
Oh and I checked the rubber coolant lines and the look good thanks for the advice on that.
Any other thought?
Mike W.
the leak that I have is very small about the size of a dime overnight and only after I ride it.
After I ride it, there is a very small amount of oil right on the crack right where the arrows are in the pic.
Oh and I checked the rubber coolant lines and the look good thanks for the advice on that.
Any other thought?
Mike W.
Sorry Mike. I assumed you were talking about a coolant leak. Should have asked more questions.
If you are getting a small spot of oil on the floor under the cases and you also have seeping from the top side of the case gasket you could do the following.
1) The engine case on that side is retained by a series of cup head bolts that should be tensioned to 7.2 ft lbs (10 Nm). Check these for correct tension as the gaskets compress over time and eventually weep oil. So will the middle gear cover (the cover plate next to your gear shift foot lever) so check that for correct tension at the same time.
2) Clean the bike around the alternator case to remove any oil above and below it. Go for a ride then re-check for visible leaks.
If no obvious leak is found just keep it clean and keep looking until you can track it back to the source.
If the gear selector arm oil seal or clutch push rod seals are weeping you will also get small spots under the bike as it tends to run down the selector arm, unto the frame and then drips off the footrest mount. If that's the issue there is a post in the forum that discusses replacing the seals.
If you are getting a small spot of oil on the floor under the cases and you also have seeping from the top side of the case gasket you could do the following.
1) The engine case on that side is retained by a series of cup head bolts that should be tensioned to 7.2 ft lbs (10 Nm). Check these for correct tension as the gaskets compress over time and eventually weep oil. So will the middle gear cover (the cover plate next to your gear shift foot lever) so check that for correct tension at the same time.
2) Clean the bike around the alternator case to remove any oil above and below it. Go for a ride then re-check for visible leaks.
If no obvious leak is found just keep it clean and keep looking until you can track it back to the source.
If the gear selector arm oil seal or clutch push rod seals are weeping you will also get small spots under the bike as it tends to run down the selector arm, unto the frame and then drips off the footrest mount. If that's the issue there is a post in the forum that discusses replacing the seals.
Buster Hymen
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Also make sure the oil is leaking from there and not just ending up there from a leak somewhere else. You can have oil there if you have oil in your airbox. It runs down one side of the cylinder and will pool there.
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
We've had a gasket shrink before on that same cover that created a leak. You can maybe get a magnifier and look at the sealing surface and see if the gaskets looks like it has any cracks. Of course you can always replace it but you need to get the gasket for the middle gear cover too (one behind the stator cover in your pic).
Sean
Sean
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So you are saying to take off the cover and inspect the gasket? If I go as far as to take the cover off then I might as well replace the gasket right?
and forgive me for being so dumb, but what is the stator cover you are talking about?
Thanks again
Mike W.
Just check above and make sure that's not the fault. Could be a breather overflow or not.
You're pointing at jug/block connection...oil escaping from here would most likely be blown under compression and not leaking, or totally seeping.
Is this a run/drip or spatter???
Neil
You're pointing at jug/block connection...oil escaping from here would most likely be blown under compression and not leaking, or totally seeping.
Is this a run/drip or spatter???
Neil
First of all thanks for the link to the manual that is going to make life a lot easier.
Ok I have it all cleaned up, and it sat for one day and two nights with no oil on the bike or on the ground. I am going on a long ride today and will check the bike when I get back.
I am pretty sure that it is not coming from above because every time I check it after riding it, everything above where my yellow arrows (see pic) is bone dry.
I will post back after my ride.
By the way you guys are awesome thanks for takin time out of your day to help a newbie out.
Mike W.
Ok I have it all cleaned up, and it sat for one day and two nights with no oil on the bike or on the ground. I am going on a long ride today and will check the bike when I get back.
I am pretty sure that it is not coming from above because every time I check it after riding it, everything above where my yellow arrows (see pic) is bone dry.
I will post back after my ride.
By the way you guys are awesome thanks for takin time out of your day to help a newbie out.
Mike W.
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
In this case to make sure your not tearing into something that is fine is to.
Power wash the engine, than take baby powder and sprinkle it in the area you know its coming from. ride the bike building crankcase pressure (up to 8500 rpms) than pull over and look for the wet spot. Woooo Lahhh there is where your leak is coming from..
If its the gasket than order one and replace it and retorque to the cover to factory specs. Dont just crank it till its tight, torque your covers to prevent pulling the threads. NO SILICONE for god sakes !
Power wash the engine, than take baby powder and sprinkle it in the area you know its coming from. ride the bike building crankcase pressure (up to 8500 rpms) than pull over and look for the wet spot. Woooo Lahhh there is where your leak is coming from..
If its the gasket than order one and replace it and retorque to the cover to factory specs. Dont just crank it till its tight, torque your covers to prevent pulling the threads. NO SILICONE for god sakes !
Ok I know where the leak is coming from now. I took the bike on a long ride and as soon as I got off I looked and found it almost like bubble out right at the yellow arrow (see Pic). So is it hard to fix or what? I do have a clymer mechanics manual for the bike. I don't have a torque wrench though. But I can go pick one up.
What do you think?
Mike
What do you think?
Mike
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Buster Hymen
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No, it is not hard to do, you only need one Allan wrench. You have to remove the middle gear cover that is beside it also. To get at that though,you also have to remove the footrest and the gear shifter. The middle gear cover also has a gasket but it usually comes off in one piece so you shouldn't need a replacement. Also some oil will come out when you remove the stator cover so get ready to catch a bit of oil. I would make a template to put all the bolts in as you take them out, as they are different lengths. Also there are some wires that run along the bottom of the stator cover. Make sure you don't pinch them when you replace the cover. The stator cover will have resistance when trying to pull it off, but that is from the magnet underneath. Also when you pull the cover 2 or 3 gears from the starter set up will fall out. It is not hard to sort out the order that they go back in. If you have any doubts, post here and we can help you through it. :cheers:
There's a copper gasket on the bottom bolt of the middle gear cover. I would get a new one of those.
4gasem
Well-Known Member
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
I usually lean the bike to the opposite side of which engine cover I need to take off. It gives you a better angle and plus its one less step of adding oil or taking a chance of putting oil back in that may have foriegn debri in it.
Good idea. Lankee has a kickstand on both sides.
:biglaugh:
:biglaugh:
Sweeeet No More Leakie
Thanks for all the help. It was good to learn about the copper washer. The guy at the Yamaha parts counter where I bought the caskets and washer tried to tell me that there was no washer there. But I insisted and finally he went back and asked one of the mechanics and was told that there was in fact a washer there. of course I acted like I knew it all the time and that every one knows there is a washer there.:whistlin:
I did learn about torque wrenches. And that you have to pay close attention to the torque settings because there is "in. lb." and ft. lb." My brother who is a mechanic was over and I was showing him my new torque wrench and he said to make sure that I knew the correct setting to torque the bolts... The manual said "89.0 in. lb." and I was think wow that is awful tight "89.0 ft. lb." He laughed and showed me the conversion chart. Silly me I didn't know about foot pounds vs. inch pounds not to mention Newton meters!:ummm:
But all is good now, cause I have no leak and my MAX is back on the road. :th_image003:
Thanks again
Mike W.
I did learn about torque wrenches. And that you have to pay close attention to the torque settings because there is "in. lb." and ft. lb." My brother who is a mechanic was over and I was showing him my new torque wrench and he said to make sure that I knew the correct setting to torque the bolts... The manual said "89.0 in. lb." and I was think wow that is awful tight "89.0 ft. lb." He laughed and showed me the conversion chart. Silly me I didn't know about foot pounds vs. inch pounds not to mention Newton meters!:ummm:
But all is good now, cause I have no leak and my MAX is back on the road. :th_image003:
Thanks again
Mike W.
44 magnum
Well-Known Member
I have the same damned leak so I'll be performing the same thing on mine soon. Many thanks for the initial post mjsonar and to all the experts who helped out.
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