Help Support VMAX Forum:
I have dyno'd the bike NUMEROUS times with the rev limiter at 9500 (80 runs or so), so I would say set it at 9000, and by the time that you react, it will be at 9500.
Here is what Dale Walker says about it.
HOW TO LAUNCH YOUR V-MAX
by Dale Walker, 4-time national drag racing champion
I guarantee you lower your ET's and be more consistent using my technique at the strip. This is how I ride the V-max only, not necessarily other models.
I could go on all day on how to launch a V-max at the strip. I’ll give you a few tips. Before I go into that, here’s a couple of other points.
I’ve run in the tens 10:50 to 10:90 on several V-maxes well 6 or 8 anyway. Two for magazines and others where on customer’s bikes. I weight 170 lbs race ready in leathers and helmet.
Keep in mind I’ve made over 20,000 passes and have set over 50 production records on variety of motorcycles so don’t be hard on yourself for not posting those big numbers. I also ran a drag racing school sponsored by Kawasaki in the late 80’s.
The V-max pee wee Jay Gleason rode was a pre-production bike that was positively massaged. Jay also at the time weighed about 130 lbs suited and could ride equal to myself. So power to weight ratio is a biggy.
I have found that when you can milk everything from a production bike with your riding talent that every ten pounds is worth about 6-8hundredths.
Many of the magazines these days correct the times for sea level. I wish they would post the numbers on the time slip then tell you the temperature, track and altitude where the test took place. This would be much more of a real world test in my opinion. All the ET's I ran were on the scoreboard not corrected. The tracks were Fremont raceway and Sacramento Raceway in California. Both can be very fast or 3 tenth slow depending on tail wind, temperature, day vs. night, etc. There are many factors...
Problem:
Most riders get too eager and turn the throttle too early and slip the clutch when they launch. This causes you to spin up the RPM, burn up clutches and wheelie or get sideways when the clutch does engage or just plain be inconsistent.
Answer:
Do your burnout in second gear to heat the tire. Be sure to let the clutch out quickly with the front brake clamp tight and apply throttle. Start with the tire in the waterbox then roll forward to the edge of the dry pavement before letting the clutch out. WARNING: never get the front tire wet. Always back in to the bleach box.
Get in your launch riding position early not while staging. Feet back a little near rear foot peg area on the ground, arms slightly bent leaning upper body forward. Your body should be in a straight line from a side view with a lean forward look.
Clutch and throttle control: I call my V-max technique the loft out method
Pre-load the clutch just so the bike does not creep. Do not hold into the grip. By doing so, you have no clutch control whatsoever.- try to launch from 4000 to 6000 RPM. Start at 4000. Keep the throttle very steady. Do not blip the throttle or let the throttle creep up!. This is crucial. When the light comes down start to slide the clutch out aggressively. This doesn't mean dump it or slip it. Do not turn the throttle yet! When you hear the exhaust, note pulling down its time to let the clutch engage fully and at that exact moment begin to roll into the throttle and drive through the bog. If you feel it bogged too much then try 500 RPM higher on the launch until you find that sweet spot for your weight and track surface. Remember clutch first then throttle. This is the key to control the front wheel lift, wheel spin and consistent launches without clutch damage.
Be sure to let your Max cool down between runs and do not let it run in the staging lanes waiting to make your pass.
If the fan kicks on or you let the temp gauge climb too high, you take the clutch out in a heartbeat.
I know a lot of you are probably sold on some type of synthetic motor oil. Well good luck at the strip. The clutch will go away much sooner when running it.
Remember to be smooth when rolling into the throttle not just snap it open. The V-max is pretty torquey and this can ruin a good launch.
The rest of running a low ET at the strip
Be tucked in by the time you get in second gear. I call this getting under the paint. This really helps ET and MPH especially on a non-fairinged bike like the V-max.
A properly tuned V-max with a 4-1 exhaust will pull up to 10,000 RPM. I know your saying: but on the Dyno my peak power is 8,900 RPM so why turn it so hard. Well this is why: the trans has too much of a gear drop from each gear and they shift much better if you buzz the motor up. I've found 10,500 is unnecessary. 10,000 to 10,200 seem to be the sweet spot on the ET and MPH.
Shifting techniques: Power shifting will run the best ET's. But unless you have a very good shifting bike, it can be hard on parts. Also if you miss a shift you could tag a valve. Power shifting is when you hold the throttle full open and fan the clutch just enough to complete the shift. I've ridden a few V-maxes where I could power shift 1-2-3 but had to back off and use the clutch to make it hit 4th. These were new bikes as well.
I highly recommend my Electric Powershifter 2 with reversed shift linkage. This allows a one up four down pattern that's much more positive. My Powershifter allows full throttle clutch-less shifts by interrupting the ignition momentarily. This allows for a fast smooth gear change. The clutch stays fully engaged saving clutch plates and the basket from getting hammered during shifts.
Stay tucked tight through the last MPH light then slowly roll out of the throttle and sit up. Once you've reached about 110 MPH apply gentle even braking.
If you ever hit something on the track or develop a speed wobble never clamp on the brakes. The best thing to do is pull in the clutch and keep a tight grip on the bars until you come out of it.
Go change your underwear.
HOW TO LAUNCH YOUR V-MAX
by Dale Walker, 4-time national drag racing champion
I guarantee you lower your ET's and be more consistent using my technique at the strip. This is how I ride the V-max only, not necessarily other models.
I could go on all day on how to launch a V-max at the strip. I’ll give you a few tips. Before I go into that, here’s a couple of other points.
I’ve run in the tens 10:50 to 10:90 on several V-maxes well 6 or 8 anyway. Two for magazines and others where on customer’s bikes. I weight 170 lbs race ready in leathers and helmet.
Keep in mind I’ve made over 20,000 passes and have set over 50 production records on variety of motorcycles so don’t be hard on yourself for not posting those big numbers. I also ran a drag racing school sponsored by Kawasaki in the late 80’s.
The V-max pee wee Jay Gleason rode was a pre-production bike that was positively massaged. Jay also at the time weighed about 130 lbs suited and could ride equal to myself. So power to weight ratio is a biggy.
I have found that when you can milk everything from a production bike with your riding talent that every ten pounds is worth about 6-8hundredths.
Many of the magazines these days correct the times for sea level. I wish they would post the numbers on the time slip then tell you the temperature, track and altitude where the test took place. This would be much more of a real world test in my opinion. All the ET's I ran were on the scoreboard not corrected. The tracks were Fremont raceway and Sacramento Raceway in California. Both can be very fast or 3 tenth slow depending on tail wind, temperature, day vs. night, etc. There are many factors...
Problem:
Most riders get too eager and turn the throttle too early and slip the clutch when they launch. This causes you to spin up the RPM, burn up clutches and wheelie or get sideways when the clutch does engage or just plain be inconsistent.
Answer:
Do your burnout in second gear to heat the tire. Be sure to let the clutch out quickly with the front brake clamp tight and apply throttle. Start with the tire in the waterbox then roll forward to the edge of the dry pavement before letting the clutch out. WARNING: never get the front tire wet. Always back in to the bleach box.
Get in your launch riding position early not while staging. Feet back a little near rear foot peg area on the ground, arms slightly bent leaning upper body forward. Your body should be in a straight line from a side view with a lean forward look.
Clutch and throttle control: I call my V-max technique the loft out method
Pre-load the clutch just so the bike does not creep. Do not hold into the grip. By doing so, you have no clutch control whatsoever.- try to launch from 4000 to 6000 RPM. Start at 4000. Keep the throttle very steady. Do not blip the throttle or let the throttle creep up!. This is crucial. When the light comes down start to slide the clutch out aggressively. This doesn't mean dump it or slip it. Do not turn the throttle yet! When you hear the exhaust, note pulling down its time to let the clutch engage fully and at that exact moment begin to roll into the throttle and drive through the bog. If you feel it bogged too much then try 500 RPM higher on the launch until you find that sweet spot for your weight and track surface. Remember clutch first then throttle. This is the key to control the front wheel lift, wheel spin and consistent launches without clutch damage.
Be sure to let your Max cool down between runs and do not let it run in the staging lanes waiting to make your pass.
If the fan kicks on or you let the temp gauge climb too high, you take the clutch out in a heartbeat.
I know a lot of you are probably sold on some type of synthetic motor oil. Well good luck at the strip. The clutch will go away much sooner when running it.
Remember to be smooth when rolling into the throttle not just snap it open. The V-max is pretty torquey and this can ruin a good launch.
The rest of running a low ET at the strip
Be tucked in by the time you get in second gear. I call this getting under the paint. This really helps ET and MPH especially on a non-fairinged bike like the V-max.
A properly tuned V-max with a 4-1 exhaust will pull up to 10,000 RPM. I know your saying: but on the Dyno my peak power is 8,900 RPM so why turn it so hard. Well this is why: the trans has too much of a gear drop from each gear and they shift much better if you buzz the motor up. I've found 10,500 is unnecessary. 10,000 to 10,200 seem to be the sweet spot on the ET and MPH.
Shifting techniques: Power shifting will run the best ET's. But unless you have a very good shifting bike, it can be hard on parts. Also if you miss a shift you could tag a valve. Power shifting is when you hold the throttle full open and fan the clutch just enough to complete the shift. I've ridden a few V-maxes where I could power shift 1-2-3 but had to back off and use the clutch to make it hit 4th. These were new bikes as well.
I highly recommend my Electric Powershifter 2 with reversed shift linkage. This allows a one up four down pattern that's much more positive. My Powershifter allows full throttle clutch-less shifts by interrupting the ignition momentarily. This allows for a fast smooth gear change. The clutch stays fully engaged saving clutch plates and the basket from getting hammered during shifts.
Stay tucked tight through the last MPH light then slowly roll out of the throttle and sit up. Once you've reached about 110 MPH apply gentle even braking.
If you ever hit something on the track or develop a speed wobble never clamp on the brakes. The best thing to do is pull in the clutch and keep a tight grip on the bars until you come out of it.
Go change your underwear.
![Bovemanx Motorcycle Phone Mount Holder, [150mph Wind Anti-Shake][7.2inch Big Phone Friendly] Bike Phone Holder, Motorcycle Handlebar Cell Phone Clamp, Compatible with iPhone 16 Pro Max Smartphones](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51F+1sontPL._SL500_.jpg)
blaxmax
Well-Known Member
One for the new thread if one wants to move it.
http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/shift_light_Instructions_b.pdf
http://www.tunedbyfrost.com/shift_light_Instructions_b.pdf
Redbone
Well-Known Member
9200 is what I have my Harlan set at, but I'm also running a Dyna 3000 which has a rev limiter. I believe the Dyna limits at 9500.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The Beekeeper
Well-Known Member
Mine is set at 9300..........................Tom.
Yamaha_Fan
Active Member
Any pictures of how you have the Harlan light mounted?
The Beekeeper
Well-Known Member
I also used velcro and mounted it on the R/H side of the speedo......................Tom.
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Here are a few pics of my mount I picked up from Cycle One-off, it was made for a Raptor shift light but with a couple mods it has worked great.
Clyde Porter IV
Well-Known Member
I came across this Light and I’m not familiar with any shift light well enough to know how to set it. The dials I’m assuming is for a Holeshot and the other the Pull. The toggles though? 1, 2, and 3
user 66450
Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2020
- Messages
- 8
- Reaction score
- 2
That is a Raptor shift light. Works great. Lethal Performance.com for instructions.
Woody
Well-Known Member
When you see the pearly gates. SHIFT !
Clyde Porter IV
Well-Known Member
Is it single Mode? One rotary for 1,000rpm and one for the Change ( 100s )? And what is the 3 toggles? If you could help I’d be Much obliged. I have ran a many Uh Holeshot and Pulls, but this beautiful Lady is special to me. She is An 07 with 34,000 miles and in Great shape. Except for the Valve Gaskets I need now to replace lol. I have swapped the Shift pattern already. 
Clyde Porter IV
Well-Known Member
I’m in the middle of recovering the
Mid-drift had a buddy want to ride so I slapped the bones back on.
Mid-drift had a buddy want to ride so I slapped the bones back on.
