Shocks info needed

[jagco1]

What is the difference between the progressive shocks 412 and the 430 is the 430 just for looks. Do they ride the same. Are there other shocks out there I should be looking also.

I'm looking at replace the rear shock soon. Are the progressive shocks a softer ride.

 

[Fire-medic]

Like anything else, if you're gonna use it's benefits, it is worth the $. If you aren't then save your $. For most riders, the 412 shocks will work just fine, a step above stock. I have them and like them. I also have a pair of 440's which I have not used because the 412's work for me. If you were hammering the curves & the road surfaces where you ride are crap then the 430's or other shocks may be for you. You don't need to spend $500+ to get better handling from your rear shocks.

I think Works Performance sells shocks. Hagon shocks are a British co. which has a good rep & a range of prices. I used to slap a set of Konis on every bike I got if I intended to keep it awhile in the 1970's/'80's. I see YSS advertised in Classic Bike and Motorcycle Classics for vintage replacements but I have never bought any.

 

[one2dmax]

The 430's are much nicer cosmetically and maybe slightly better then the 412's but I am not 100% sure there is an actual performance/ride difference.

 

[dmax1]

Me I am a heavy rider and I have the 430s and I am very happy with them up here in northern AZ. I ride a 50/50 between switch backs and straight roads.unk:

 

[jagco1]

Thanks, So the 412 the springs are the same pounds as the stock vmax but they have a better internals.

Sean do you have them. I seen them for $212.00 free shipping.

 

[CrackerRican]

Just swapped out the 412 for 430 would let them go for $175 with less than 2k miles on them. Like brand new condition. They are 11.5" though so dont know if that's to low for you.

 

[jagco1]

Just swapped out the 412 for 430 would let them go for $175 with less than 2k miles on them. Like brand new condition. They are 11.5" though so dont know if that's to low for you.

Thanks not sure yet on 11.5 size, I was looking in to 12.5 to 13" stock size.

 

[Miles Long]

Thanks not sure yet on 11.5 size, I was looking in to 12.5 to 13" stock size.

A word to the wise, Mr. Jagco -
If you are still using the stock exhaust (I believe you are) installing any shocks shorter than the stock 13" will make rear wheel removal much more difficult, because the axle will not clear the exhaust can on the right side. Both shocks will have to be removed completely, because they are stud-mounted top and bottom.
If you are tall enough to be not bothered by the seat height of the stock Max, I would not consider lowering the rear end of the bike.
Cheers!

 

[ErnieK2]

What is the stock height? If you don't want to change this when buying replacement shocks what height to order?

 

[jagco1]

What is the stock height? If you don't want to change this when buying replacement shocks what height to order?

Stock height is 13"

I'm not sure yet if like to lower the bike.
If lower the bike my drag bars my have to be replace. When I slide the fork tubes up some in the trees.

 

[jagco1]

A word to the wise, Mr. Jagco -
If you are still using the stock exhaust (I believe you are) installing any shocks shorter than the stock 13" will make rear wheel removal much more difficult, because the axle will not clear the exhaust can on the right side. Both shocks will have to be removed completely, because they are stud-mounted top and bottom.
If you are tall enough to be not bothered by the seat height of the stock Max, I would not consider lowering the rear end of the bike.
Cheers!

Thanks mileslong you always look out for me...

I have a kerker exhaust on the bike. But still not sure on lowering the bike.

 

[Traumahawk]

I'm not sure yet if like to lower the bike.
If lower the bike my drag bars my have to be replace. When I slide the fork tubes up some in the trees.

You can slide the forks up in the trees....but only about half an inch. Anymore than that when you hit the brakes hard, you might hit the radiator with the fender. The best way to get the forks lowered....is to lower them INTERNALLY, by installing progressive springs that are either lowered 1 inch, or 2. Most people just do the 1 inch lowering.

 

[one2dmax]

We've had decent luck sliding them up as much as 1" but as you noted the risks increase with the greater you do that. The best way is to do it with internal spacers/springs as you noted!

Besides, The 85-92's won't let you lower unless you eliminate the air crossover and weld the holes shut (which we do too).

 

[Rollie]

I would disagree about using progressive springs and recommend linear springs. Sportbikes & racing bikes use primarily linear springs with a cartridge type system and / or specific valving to flow the fork oil properly . When you break down the suspension of a motorcycle is really just a spring / mass / damper system. The response of that system is dictated by the mass or object , the damping force , and the spring rate. If you want to understand the vehicle response to an input (aka a "bump") you need to know all three. If the spring rate varies during the travel it really complicates things. The idea of a progressive rate spring is that it is extra low rate at the top of travel and extra high closer to bottoming to make up for it. That means it is either too soft or too stiff but never actually correct. It also gets difficult to understand the crossover point because that depends on the preload. Sag is almost impossible to measure correctly also.

There are two main reasons to make a progressive rate spring: it is a "one size fits all " approach. I think logic tells you that is almost impossible. Making one spring is cheaper than many different rates, thus the profit margin rises .




Traumahawk;381207]You can slide the forks up in the trees....but only about half an inch. Anymore than that when you hit the brakes hard, you might hit the radiator with the fender. The best way to get the forks lowered....is to lower them INTERNALLY, by installing progressive springs that are either lowered 1 inch, or 2. Most people just do the 1 inch lowering.[/QUOTE]

 

[jagco1]

Wow thanks for all the info guy's. I will take a good look at my upper fork tree again. I have pro spring in the fork tubes now stock length.