Something has always concerned me with the geometry...

[MAXMS]

I'm wondering too, that possibly the adjuster got installed on the left side of the swingarm?

I'm taking it in to Suter's Speed Shop in Madison next month to have him look at it. I want to paint the swing arm black anyway. Maybe replace the swing arm bearings too. Thank you guys for the thoughts. Definitely the best site out there for the Vmax fanatics.

 

[sdt354]

You can run an adjuster on each side, but I'd make sure everything is
right before doing that.Be safe.

 

[MAXMS]

In order to keep from hijacking your thread, I have responded here:

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/disaster-can-happen-in-an-instant.47893/

I think with the plate attached to the fender, the alignment looks better.

 

[prosnap]

It looks like the swing arm is off. I would put it up on the center stand and pull off the right shock. If the shock feels like it’s on a bind go one step further after the shock is removed and see if there is any side to side play in the rear end bu pulling on the tire back and forth.

 

[user 16790]

it looks to me like both the rear shocks are leaning to the right, the wheel shouldn't be that much out of line, the swingarm alignment must be out, has the swingarm ever been changed

 

[jdeitz1979]

I'm wondering too, that possibly the adjuster got installed on the left side of the swingarm?

I’m betting that’s what it is. I got two right side adjusters in my swing arm. Helps take a little offset out so it doesn’t look soo bad on my busa swap. Maybe MAXMS, should pop the left swing arm cover off n see what’s there

 

[MAXMS]

it looks to me like both the rear shocks are leaning to the right, the wheel shouldn't be that much out of line, the swingarm alignment must be out, has the swingarm ever been changed

Thanks for the reply, I am the third owner and I do believe the swing arm or the rear has been removed because the on the left side, the Vmax has that plastic ring between the hub and the rim. Well mine is aluminum. My bike has been customized by the first owner. He had the two neck pieces, the instrument cowl and the rear plastic taillight assembly as well as that plastic ring removed and replaced with a casted aluminum. Somewhat interesting. So, I do know that the rear wheel has been removed to get to that ring. My solution to this is I am taking it to a good friend of mine (Suter's Speed Shop) in Madison for him to look at it. At the same time, I want him to remove the swing arm so I can have it painted black. The kicker in all of this is drives perfect, no shakes, no wobbles and even at very high speeds. It's just always bothered me from a geometry standpoint. Thank you!

 

[user 16790]

great, hope you get is sorted

 

[Edward]

...the Vmax has that plastic ring between the hub and the rim. Well mine is aluminum. My bike has been customized by the first owner. ...that plastic ring removed and replaced with a casted aluminum. ... So, I do know that the rear wheel has been removed to get to that ring. My solution to this is I am taking it to a good friend of mine (Suter's Speed Shop) in Madison for him to look at it.

Maybe he adapted it to allow for a different dimension in the "casting." I like your solution. A professional mechanic may have a spare Housing Cover 1FK-46154-00-00 to compare to the replacement. I'm guessing that some, ill considered, "adjustment" was made to allow for installation of the replacement.

...drives perfect, no shakes, no wobbles and even at very high speeds. It's just always bothered me from a geometry standpoint. Thank you!

No, there might not be any shakes or wobbles. Motorcycles, being two wheeled vehicles, are automatically aligned by the operator. You, keep the head turned slightly to the left in compensation in order to keep the motorcycle moving on a straight ahead line. Notice this the next time you are riding.

The problem is that your wheels aren't in the same plane. The rear tire doesn't follow directly in the path of the front tire. This means that a right turn will have a completely different geometry from that of a left hand turn. You feel this the most when cornering hard at LOW speed.

In your case, a left turn will require significantly less right hand contersteer than the left hand contersteer for a right hand turn. The rear wheel is already on the inside radius of the turn. Have you noticed that you corner too hard in a left hand turn? ...that your motorcycle wants to to "lay over" in a left hand turn? ... that it takes longer to "settle in" to a right hand turn?

A right hand turn will feel delayed. You countersteer left but nothing happens until the rear wheel has passed to the inside (rightmost) radius of the turn; meanwhile, you're running wide. You have to turn the head much further (with respect to the motorcycle) than normal since it's already pushed to the left in order to go straight.

Undoubtedly, you have developed a "feel: for this peculiarity in your motorcycle and may not even notice it at all. It's like, when you used to swap bicycles with your friend and his pedals always seemed to have this strange motion as you pedaled them around. That's why I have a rule never to swap motorcycles with my friends. If I were to get on your bike I would notice this problem immediately. You would probably notice some peculiarity in mine.

I have neglected to look at your "chicken strips" to try and gauge how hard you manhandle this bike. If you always ride on the center of the tires, you may not notice any problem, even with low speed handling.

But here's a test. Chose an average width road and make a complete "U" turn, curb-to-curb, at walking speed without touching either of your feet to the ground. Start all the way to the right and make a "U" turn counterclockwise. Rinse and repeat starting at the left side of the road. Feel the difference now? Left-to-right a little spooky?

I don't like unexpected things happening when I ride. I want to be "one" with my bike. No thought to control manipulation. "Look left, push left, lean left, go left, accelerate..."

Man! Please don't ride this motorcycle at 120MPH until you get this problem sorted out!

 

[MaxMidnight]

It's quite normal for shaft driven bikes to have the rear wheel offset to one side. As the offset isn't that great any difference if turning effort from side to side will not be noticed by most of us mortals and is something we soon get used to.
The offset on the Max has been well documented and a partial remedy lies in fitting a RH (the adjustable one) swinging arm pivot in place of the LH (fixed one) which will allow you to move the swinging arm assembly over to the right.

At the moment you seem to be guessing as to where the problem lies.
I would check that the centre of the front wheel head-stock and centre line of the frame are all in line.
Use a plumb line and mark the points on the floor.
Then check to see how far off centre the rear wheel is.
Finally check to see if the rear mudguard is off centre.
If it is then drop a plumb line down from the mudguard mounting points and see if they are equidistant from the frame centre line.

Having done this you will know where the issue lies and establish what your options are.

 

[Edward]

It's quite normal for shaft driven bikes to have the rear wheel offset to one side. As the offset isn't that great any difference if turning effort from side to side will not be noticed by most of us mortals and is something we soon get used to.
The offset on the Max has been well documented...

A quick and unscientific check of my rear wheel (with the rear fender) confirms it to be centered.

Here: https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/checking-motorcycles-wheel-alignment/ is a "down and dirty" way to quickly check a motorcycle's tracking using florescent tubes. Really ingenious!

Look at that gorgeous BSA!

 

[MAXMS]

Just for kicks, here's a photo of the aluminum casted ring next to the rear wheel.

 

[Edward]

Just for kicks, here's a photo of the aluminum casted ring next to the rear wheel.

It looks really nice. I will be interested to see how the dimensions compare to that of the OEM.

I have a couple fewer threads showing . Is there a cotter pin installed? It's difficult to tell.

 

[[email protected]]

It looks really nice. I will be interested to see how the dimensions compare to that of the OEM.

I have a couple fewer threads showing . Is there a cotter pin installed? It's difficult to tell.

His bike has the newer version final drive with updated axle. This axle is shorter than the old style and uses a self locking nut, not a castellated nut. No cotter pin required.
I dont see how the aluminum dust shield is going to change anything.

Has the OP popped the swingarm covers off? It takes a second to do.

 

[02GF74]

one month on, was this resolved?

 

[[email protected]]

one month on, was this resolved?

1 YEAR +1 month....

 

[ATKPILOT]

Sorry to sound so harsh. But I try to be mindful of others on this list who are novices and may not have taken the MSF/RSS course. God forbid, they should get the idea that motorcycling is as safe a driving a car.

Motorcycling Safety Foundation Riding and Street Skills.

Msf class is a joke they half-*** teach scared people to ride nighthawk 250s then let them get license on them then climb into their must have 700 lb bagger and send them down the road what could happen? I can express this opinion I was a racing instructor for WERA and AMA and held an ama pro license until a few years ago got tired of dusting off tz250 to do the races to keep it .But I do think a person should have to do their riding test on their own bike that their ego bought and their *** could never master wearer the worst riders and drivers on the planet we are unique that we're ok with play the part instead of be the part the rest of the world embraces race raft and motoring skill we would rather pretend we do.

 

[PATMAX]

Just for kicks, here's a photo of the aluminum casted ring next to the rear wheel.

We all want one of those, or six !