Somewhat simple question on air/fuel screws

[WIKDMAX]

I'm not 100 % positive but it just seems like my 2002 Vmax is running rich at idle and low RPM. I know from past experience they all seem to smell rich at idle but this one is over the top to me. My question is whether it would be worth it to drill out the plugs and attempt to change the mixture via the screws? Everything on the bike is stock except for I recently installed a K&N air filter which did not change what I think of the richness. The plugs looked good but the right rear plug was slightly wet with fuel. Carbs are synched as close to dead on as I can get it. Just wondering if that would be the next logical step or if I'm overlooking something.

 

[dannymax]

I'm not 100 % positive but it just seems like my 2002 Vmax is running rich at idle and low RPM. I know from past experience they all seem to smell rich at idle but this one is over the top to me. My question is whether it would be worth it to drill out the plugs and attempt to change the mixture via the screws? Everything on the bike is stock except for I recently installed a K&N air filter which did not change what I think of the richness. The plugs looked good but the right rear plug was slightly wet with fuel. Carbs are synched as close to dead on as I can get it. Just wondering if that would be the next logical step or if I'm overlooking something.

A/F is adjusted at the factory to meet emission standards, it's unlikely they have changed very much unless you have aftermarket pipes or some similar mod.

Have you checked the wet levels on your floats? That might be a better place to start.

 

[firefly]

I'm not 100 % positive but it just seems like my 2002 Vmax is running rich at idle and low RPM. I know from past experience they all seem to smell rich at idle but this one is over the top to me. My question is whether it would be worth it to drill out the plugs and attempt to change the mixture via the screws? Everything on the bike is stock except for I recently installed a K&N air filter which did not change what I think of the richness. The plugs looked good but the right rear plug was slightly wet with fuel. Carbs are synched as close to dead on as I can get it. Just wondering if that would be the next logical step or if I'm overlooking something.

A clogged idle air circuit will make the bike run richer and smell like gas. the K&N should actually make it slightly leaner. I would give it some carb cleaner fuel additive like sea foam or BG-44 or liquimoly. you can also decarbonize the combustion chambers by dropping a few drops of water in each carb while engine is running, you can use a sprayer but don't spray too much.

 

[maleko89]

Is the air filter still wet from being installed? Sometimes they have too much oil and you can find evidence of that if you remove top of air box and look for pink fluid at the bottom. A dirty or over-oiled air filter will cause a rich condition.

 

[firefly]

Is the air filter still wet from being installed? Sometimes they have too much oil and you can find evidence of that if you remove top of air box and look for pink fluid at the bottom. A dirty or over-oiled air filter will cause a rich condition.

Just to add a Little observation, oil droplets CAN clog the tiny air passages in the carbs.

 

[maleko89]

Yeah, anything can....doesn't take much.

 

[tugla]

ya like dan said id check the float level as just a little off will give that rich smell. and worth getting access to the a/f screws.

 

[sdt354]

I'm not 100 % positive but it just seems like my 2002 Vmax is running rich at idle and low RPM. I know from past experience they all seem to smell rich at idle but this one is over the top to me. My question is whether it would be worth it to drill out the plugs and attempt to change the mixture via the screws? Everything on the bike is stock except for I recently installed a K&N air filter which did not change what I think of the richness. The plugs looked good but the right rear plug was slightly wet with fuel. Carbs are synched as close to dead on as I can get it. Just wondering if that would be the next logical step or if I'm overlooking something.

I'm betting it's not the a/f/ adjustment too. If anything, the a/f screws are prolly on the lean side. Check the float levels first,after making sure the air filter is ok, like mentioned.
Before you move the a/f/ screws make note of where they're at from the factory. Count and note the turns in till seated, gentle. The factory set these with a co meter and they might not all be the same.
IF the floats are set right,do the shotgun procedure. This can all be found on previous threads.
Steve-o

 

[WIKDMAX]

Thanks guys I'll try the floats first. I know it's not the air filter, was appearing rich before I put the K&N on. I was hoping the K&N would somewhat solve the problem by leaning it out slightly but there was no change.

 

[sdt354]

Thanks guys I'll try the floats first. I know it's not the air filter, was appearing rich before I put the K&N on. I was hoping the K&N would somewhat solve the problem by leaning it out slightly but there was no change.

Here's what I do, and feel it's faster and less hastle.Once I get a carb that is set to where i want it with a clear tube-17mm. I cycle the pump first, then I drain it into a clear jar and mark the level. Then go to the other carbs and drain them into the same jar and compare them all to the mark on the jar. At the same time I look for sedement from each carb.I save the jar and etch a line where I made the mark. It makes a float level check a piece of cake.
Steve-o

 

[dannymax]

Here's what I do, and feel it's faster and less hastle.Once I get a carb that is set to where i want it with a clear tube-17mm. I cycle the pump first, then I drain it into a clear jar and mark the level. Then go to the other carbs and drain them into the same jar and compare them all to the mark on the jar. At the same time I look for sedement from each carb.I save the jar and etch a line where I made the mark. It makes a float level check a piece of cake.
Steve-o

But, but...s'pose one carb was exposed to the sun too long and the float chamber shrunk.....:ummm:

LOL...Actually, Steve-o, that's a hell of an idea....gonna use that one! Not unlike my little float setting gauge I made from a peice of plastic, it snugs up against the jet block, aligns with the inside edge of the float chamber and is filed so the float, set at 17mm wet level, rests on top of the gauge.

Not good at screwing around with the calipers on rounded corners....same with the plastic tube!!

Good thinking Steve-o, thanks for sharing!! :clapping:

 

[tugla]

kinda what i thought of doing, right after you set your dry float setting and then install on bike, ya drain it into a container and mark it that way can check yours/others and then will know where they are set and if you need to take them off again.

once again im never amazed on how vmaxer all think a like, just say it with a head nod and vboost action hahahahah