Spacers with Progressive springs.

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Yamaha_Fan

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I'm in the process of rebuilding my forks, and installing Progressive springs. According to the instructions that came with the springs, I need a spacer length of 9.37". The stock spacer is 9 5/8", and the PVC spacers that came with the springs are close to 10".

I'm assuming I will need to cut the spacers down, am I better off cutting the stock spacers and using those, or cutting down the PVC spacers? I also noticed that the PVC spacers fit perfectly in the stock spacers, but I'm assuming I only need to run one of them. Want to make sure before I start cutting.
 

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I advise using PVC spacers, buy a length of pipe and you can fine-tune the length to get exactly the resistance you want. Then, if you wish, you can return it to stock, if you want to use it on your next VMax!

Yes one or the other no need to use two lengths in the same leg.
 
I advise using PVC spacers, buy a length of pipe and you can fine-tune the length to get exactly the resistance you want. Then, if you wish, you can return it to stock, if you want to use it on your next VMax!

Yes one or the other no need to use two lengths in the same leg.

Exactly
 
I cut the PVC spacers to 9-3/8" (9.37") and used 10 wt. Maxmia Racing Fork Fluid and No air when I installed mine and I Love them.
My stock spacers are now sitting in the Progressive fork spring box.
PS
I weigh about 180 lbs., a lot of the heavier guys used 15 wt. fork fluid and said it worked well for them.
 
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I'm curious before cutting the spacers does anybody check the front end sag then cut there spacers to allow for that ? :ummm:
 
Got both forks done. Used the pvc that came with the springs and cut them down. I used 10wt since that's what I had in the garage, but maybe I should have used 15wt since I'm pushing 250lb, at least I've still got the air adjustment to play with. My seal driver didn't fit so I had to make one out of some scrap pvc. Can't wait to ride it but it'll be a while since I'm waiting on brake pads and rotors to be delivered.
 
If you try it w/no air, you're gonna be bottoming it out so I'd suggest 10 psi, range is ~5-15 psi. I'm a bit lighter than you ready to ride & run 15 psi, and am v happy there. Without air, I would bottom-out constantly. Air it up, & it's altogether different. I know some people don't run air, but I think those must be the Progressive Springs guys weighing 140 lbs in gear.

Got both forks done. Used the pvc that came with the springs and cut them down. I used 10wt since that's what I had in the garage, but maybe I should have used 15wt since I'm pushing 250lb, at least I've still got the air adjustment to play with. My seal driver didn't fit so I had to make one out of some scrap pvc. Can't wait to ride it but it'll be a while since I'm waiting on brake pads and rotors to be delivered.
 
I went out an bought a 3ft stick of 1"pvc pipe an tried a few lengths not sure what the measurement was but as far as the fork oil I went with 10w as well the 20w is to heavy with the beefy springs
 
I'm curious before cutting the spacers does anybody check the front end sag then cut there spacers to allow for that ? :ummm:

Yes, and good point. Static sag for the street is usually adjusted by spacer length at 25-35 mm, I believe. It should be considered when changing things. I cut my steel spacers but PVC is fine and easier to cut with a tubing/cutter.
 
Yes, and good point. Static sag for the street is usually adjusted by spacer length at 25-35 mm, I believe. It should be considered when changing things. I cut my steel spacers but PVC is fine and easier to cut with a tubing/cutter.

Steve are you saying the sag should 25 - 35 mm ? I thought it was 35 - 40 mm.

Dave
 
Steve are you saying the sag should 25 - 35 mm ? I thought it was 35 - 40 mm.

Dave
According to RaceTech static Sag on a road bike should be somewhere around 30-35 mm.
"Street bikes run between 25 and 33 percent of their total travel, which equates to 30 to 35mm.

It's important to stress that there is no magic number. If you like the feel of the bike with less or more sag than these guidelines, great. Your personal sag and front-to-rear sag bias will depend on chassis geometry, track or road conditions, tire selection and rider weight and riding preference."

http://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htm
 
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