Stage 7 Float Bowl Vacuum Hoses

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jwood

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2011
Messages
284
Reaction score
1
Location
Beverly Hills Florida
I am getting mixed answers to this question, can anyone here give their view :bang head:

Stage 7 with Pods what do you do with the float bowl vent lines???

Some say remove the hoses from the carbs.

some say you need to keep them connected to the carbs and allow the hoses to lay in the top region of the 4 pod filters.

Some are telling me that I need to cut the hoses to a few inches and point them upward in the carb area.:ummm:

Can anyone here let me know their idea on this? :bang head:
 
Sorry I can't advise you here. I just had my mechanic go through my whole Stage 7 System. He told me it was "kind of involved to get them all synced up."

The upside is that now that I can see a fully functional Stage 7 Set Up, I can see how it breaths better than a stock box type filter. Plus by dyno tuning each part cyclinder can be mapped individually. End Result: Sings like a small block 350 with an Luciano Pavoratti vibrato Tone that says Street Fighter All Day Long.

Hope some senior members can chime in here. I'm at the same learning curve by watching utube videos of "how to.' Good Info.

Jack
 
Your going to get some mixed reviews here. I have had some bikes that seem to want the vent hoses tied up to the frame by the filters & a couple my personal bike for instance has no vent hoses at all & runs fine.
 
If you have them I'd just leave them tied up to frame under instrument cluster and be done with it....as mentioned some have them some don't, and some people have weird issues with the carbs.....
 
I am running no hoses and my bike runs fine on my Stage 7 set-up.
 
I've run it both ways and couldn't tell a difference. I don think its going to see a pressure/vacuum difference either way compared to what the stock air box set does.

I don't run mine anymore, one less thing to deal with when pulling/installing

If it was going to sit out in the weather or be ridden in the rain I would consider putting them back.
 
Your going to get some mixed reviews here. I have had some bikes that seem to want the vent hoses tied up to the frame by the filters & a couple my personal bike for instance has no vent hoses at all & runs fine.

What type of symptoms would i be looking for? right now I am running "no" hoses at all, I am having some 'bucking' I would call it, at low rpms, would these hoses cause this?
 
What type of symptoms would i be looking for? right now I am running "no" hoses at all, I am having some 'bucking' I would call it, at low rpms, would these hoses cause this?
Most likely that is not the problem from what I have seen. I have seen some kind of hesitate or buck a little but its usually at higher rpms. Best thing you can do is just put them on there & see if it makes a difference.
 
That was my next step :thumbup:

I have leaned out the idle side with the A/F screws quite abit and almost got the bucking gone while still having a nice smooth and responsive blip of the throttle, i am being overly cautious not to go to lean tho... I am at about 1.5 turns out now on the A/F screws..

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Stock motor and reasonable jetting is very hard to get TOO lean.

Pilot screw is only idle and off idle anyway so about impossible to detonate at that load an rpm. As far as damaging the motor the pilot screw adjustment I would say its impossible, worst you can do is make it run poorly.
 
My 1260 has no hoses and runs like a swiss watch....my '96 also has no hoses but the other day I was pulling left onto the highway from a stop sign and halfway thru the arc the bike had a huge hesitation...seemed to shut completely off! Guess I squeezed the clutch quick enough cause when I gave it some throttle it spooled back up and I let the clutch out and kept going.

I've heard of this happening to others and very often the bike goes down because there just isn't enough momentum to keep it upright....which very nearly happened.

No idea if this is hose related but I'm going to put them back on and tie them up on the frame rails.
 
Stock motor and reasonable jetting is very hard to get TOO lean.

Pilot screw is only idle and off idle anyway so about impossible to detonate at that load an rpm. As far as damaging the motor the pilot screw adjustment I would say its impossible, worst you can do is make it run poorly.

I was thinking the same thing, that is were my stumble is, at idle and just off idle, still working on it, the bike seams happy being leaned out down there, with the Stage 7 installed 165 Main, 4 clip on the needle and 2.5 turns out and wide open Vboost, its soooooooo rich at idle and just off idle, it even is fouling the plugs and missing! we will get it worked out, as everyone has said, it all in the tuning....
 
I was thinking the same thing, that is were my stumble is, at idle and just off idle, still working on it, the bike seams happy being leaned out down there, with the Stage 7 installed 165 Main, 4 clip on the needle and 2.5 turns out and wide open Vboost, its soooooooo rich at idle and just off idle, it even is fouling the plugs and missing! we will get it worked out, as everyone has said, it all in the tuning....

When I say "too lean" I only mean as far as damaging the motor.
 
Back
Top