Stage 7 Incomplete install

[luv2ride]

Would anyone happen to have a pdf of the install process for the stage 7 kit. I have been chasin really strange carburetion issues and think I may be missing something from the kit. i scoured DynoJet to no avail, I've emailed them however.
Thought I might try here as well.

Thanks

 

[maleko89]

Here are the instructions: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/4716.pdf

What issues are you having? What is your current setup?

 

[lankeeyankee]

You will be better off in resolving your carb issues here than Dynojet. To much expierence here that can resolve your issues with accurate and detailed information provided.

 

[luv2ride]

OMG -- I cant believe I never scrolled down and read the 2nd page. How dumb am I. I m chasing a few idling issues. I have a carb I ordered from Sean which was shippped today with a bad A/F screw. Just got all the new boots installed and started it tonight. Still racing with the choke on, it was late so I have to resume tomorrow. I like my neghbors

The person I bought this bike from was extremley challenged, as the matter of fact he may have took it to a shop in the area which was known for BAD work and is no longer in business. I just wanted to make sure everything was installed correctly and nothing was missing. I saw reference to Dynojet part #DCO402 and I'm not sure if thats even installed. I just wanted to double check everything. Hope this helps!

 

[maleko89]

If you give us your location, what exhaust you're running we can give you a good starting point for jetting.

What do you mean by racing with choke on?

 

[lankeeyankee]

I believe he means idle is high. This is normal mine will idle as high as 3500 with the choke on full.
The only time mine races when I head to the track (Which I am overdue)

I agree, hook us up with all your info.

Sea Level?
Weather, avg humidity temps?
What exhaust?
Are you running the stock airbox, oem air filter, K&N filter, individuals?

We will give you a good starting point. There is no telling what is missing or misadjusted.

 

[vmaxinID]

I think he's around 672ft Elev.

 

[luv2ride]

Let me try and explain this the best I can. Since I picked up the bike I have ben chasing strange issues with carbs. Racing when choked, 1 min its at 2000 RPM the next min at 4000 will stay there till I drop the choke. After that it will idle again for a min or so then jump back up 4000 or higher. It's almost like an air leak (lean) type of rev. What I have done so far - replaced all rubber boots on the intake and the others on the bypass tubes. VBoost has been completely removed. I still have the entire setup so it can be installed if need be. Stage 7 kit is installed (or so I was told) I am skeptical at this point. It's like something is missing almost. You know how you just get that feelng?

When warmed up the bike seems to idle ok, BUT will die at stop lights randomly. Makes great power all thru the powerband. Did I mention it's very quick? I've been a 2 stroke guy all my life, but this thing has changed my way of thinking. Now if I can only get it to run right. I am anal, if it doesnt run as it should I would rather not drive it.

Ok, I'm rambling but you get the idea. (I hope)

 

[4gasem]

Let me try and explain this the best I can. Since I picked up the bike I have ben chasing strange issues with carbs. Racing when choked, 1 min its at 2000 RPM the next min at 4000 will stay there till I drop the choke. After that it will idle again for a min or so then jump back up 4000 or higher. It's almost like an air leak (lean) type of rev. What I have done so far - replaced all rubber boots on the intake and the others on the bypass tubes. VBoost has been completely removed. I still have the entire setup so it can be installed if need be. Stage 7 kit is installed (or so I was told) I am skeptical at this point. It's like something is missing almost. You know how you just get that feelng?

When warmed up the bike seems to idle ok, BUT will die at stop lights randomly. Makes great power all thru the powerband. Did I mention it's very quick? I've been a 2 stroke guy all my life, but this thing has changed my way of thinking. Now if I can only get it to run right. I am anal, if it doesnt run as it should I would rather not drive it.

Ok, I'm rambling but you get the idea. (I hope)

Add your current jetting and needle settings.

 

[maleko89]

Let me try and explain this the best I can. Since I picked up the bike I have ben chasing strange issues with carbs. Racing when choked, 1 min its at 2000 RPM the next min at 4000 will stay there till I drop the choke. After that it will idle again for a min or so then jump back up 4000 or higher. It's almost like an air leak (lean) type of rev. What I have done so far - replaced all rubber boots on the intake and the others on the bypass tubes. VBoost has been completely removed. I still have the entire setup so it can be installed if need be. Stage 7 kit is installed (or so I was told) I am skeptical at this point. It's like something is missing almost. You know how you just get that feelng?

When warmed up the bike seems to idle ok, BUT will die at stop lights randomly. Makes great power all thru the powerband. Did I mention it's very quick? I've been a 2 stroke guy all my life, but this thing has changed my way of thinking. Now if I can only get it to run right. I am anal, if it doesnt run as it should I would rather not drive it.

Ok, I'm rambling but you get the idea. (I hope)

I would put vboost back. Any reason why you removed it? It's not required to be removed for stage 7. It's much easier to unplug it to the open position. That way you can close vboost when you sync your carbs.

I would make sure all clamps are tight and make sure no air leaks at manifold. What's your idle thumb screw set to? Is your throttle and cables in adjustment? Choke and choke linkages working okay? What's your float level? What do your plugs look like? Charging voltage?

 

[one2dmax]

One often overlooked problem area (especially on older carb sets) is the throttle shaft seals. They are getting overlooked now but are starting to show up. Try some carb cleaner or other spray to see if the throttle varies when you spray on those areas.

Sean

 

[maleko89]

One often overlooked problem area (especially on older carb sets) is the throttle shaft seals. They are getting overlooked now but are starting to show up. Try some carb cleaner or other spray to see if the throttle varies when you spray on those areas.

Sean

Are you talking where the butterflies are? Not much you can do there besides replace carb?

 

[one2dmax]

You can dissassemble the carb and replace the seals. I haven't sent one to a friend I know to match one up yet but I can more then likely get them.

Sean

 

[luv2ride]

Another couple hours in the garage going thru everything carb related. The stage 7 kit is installed per instructions using the 175 main jets. The needles included with the kit on the 4th ring as specified in the instructions (now that I know there is 2 pages) :clapping:

So here is what i've done to this point.

1.) Replaced all rubber boots (most were cracked, although not all the way)
2.) Replaced o-rings on intake manifolds
3.) Disassembled and thoroughly cleaned all the carbs.
4.) Cleaned Air Filters (K&N)
5.) Adjusted throttle cable for a small amount of play, instead of NO play at all.

Just got back from taking it out for a ride.
Same issue with the motor reving with the choke on, I've learned how to control it (sort of) once I'm rolling I am ok but I have to feather the throttle to keep it running as I turn off the choke.

It makes great power right to 9500.

When letting off the throttle I notice there is a few seconds where it stays above 3000-4000 RPM then drops to idle. When I got off the bike it was idling I put it on the side stand and it started reving up again by itself to about 2-3000 for a few seconds then dropped back to idle for about a minute then died. This is with a fully warm motor.

What are the chances this is a DIAPHRAGM problem? I cant think of what else it could be. I've checked them and they seem fine (no holes & installed properly, just a thought.

I've also gone thru about 1/2 can of Sea Foam just in case, with my last 3-4 tanks of gas. I might have to go back to 2-stroke, I've never got this kind of ***-whoopin with a 2 stroker. Anyone have an RZ500 they wanna peddle :biglaugh:

Thanks to all

 

[Thevmaxrider]

Just to throw my $.02 into the hat... with the symptoms you just described I would be thinking you were either wicked lean or you have a vacuum leak. Check the rubber covers for the vacuum nipples (where you attach you carb synch hoses) and the vacuum line to the #1 carb. Otherwise I start looking at jetting and needle settings. Of course I may be totally off base too LOL.

 

[lankeeyankee]

I am not doubting your mechnaical abilites but here is what I would check.


1) You have a total of 8 rubber boots 2 sets of 4. They have to placed onto the manifold and carb with an orrentation. If not they will leak.
You need to have a stop in between the clamps, this prevents over tightening of the clamps, which will cause a leak.
2) There is a small o-ring when you remove each carb top, do you have them?
3) There is an orrentation with each rubber carb slide diaphram are they correct?
4) Make sure your carbs are fully seated to the boots, you may think they are fully on, but they may not be seated fully. Compare each one to ensure they are all seated properly.
5) How are you checking your rubber slide diagphram? Are you holding them over a light and stretching them to check for pin holes? (Use common sense not to tear them)
6) Remove the manifolds from the block, is there any silicone on any of these surfaces? Shouldnt be!

I would hook the VBOOST manifolds up as mentioned but keep them open.
As stated when you have to synch the carbs you wont have much luck unless you use an indivual vac gauge and compare each one, which isnt worth a **** IMO!

175's for mains sounds kinda large to me. I am close to 700-900 ft and I am running 165's with a Kerker 4-2-1 with a 2.75 Baffle

 

[luv2ride]

I double and triple checked those caps. They aren't cracked at all but are a little loose even with the clamps. If that's the issue (I thought about that already) I think I will give up wrenching for the rest of my life and become a librarian~!

Headed to the store now! It's raining (storming) here so the test ride may have to wait!

Thanks

 

[lankeeyankee]

One often overlooked problem area (especially on older carb sets) is the throttle shaft seals. They are getting overlooked now but are starting to show up. Try some carb cleaner or other spray to see if the throttle varies when you spray on those areas.

Sean

I would be very careful with "Try some carb cleaner" I have seen carb cleaner dull engine paint along with removing it over time. If you do use carb cleaner make sure you dont allow it to drip on any painted surfaces or your engine paint will eventually look like a turd unless you have them powder coated than it doesnt matter.:clapping:

 

[vmaxinID]

Are the Restrictors in place???

 

[luv2ride]

1) You have a total of 8 rubber boots 2 sets of 4. They have to placed onto the manifold and carb with an orrentation. If not they will leak.
You need to have a stop in between the clamps, this prevents over tightening of the clamps, which will cause a leak.
2) There is a small o-ring when you remove each carb top, do you have them?
3) There is an orrentation with each rubber carb slide diaphram are they correct?
4) Make sure your carbs are fully seated to the boots, you may think they are fully on, but they may not be seated fully. Compare each one to ensure they are all seated properly.
5) How are you checking your rubber slide diagphram? Are you holding them over a light and stretching them to check for pin holes? (Use common sense not to tear them)
6) Remove the manifolds from the block, is there any silicone on any of these surfaces? Shouldnt be!

I have checked and am aware of all these issues, thanks for the heads upi though I went and double checked all of my connections just in case I messed up one of the boots. All were ok.

So, I've had the issue prior to replacing the boots, since I purchased the bike and still have it. I'm running out of places to look. I did replace the vacuum caps with tighter ones, they didnt seem to make a difference BUT done none the less.

I think I will have to pull the carbs and look at the diaphragms closer. Perhaps one or more of them are staying open longer and not closing properly. It's the only thing I can think of. I may also re-install the v-boost vales and leave them open.

I have tried the carb cleaner for air leaks to no avail even with the old boots.

If this makes a difference, I know the previous owner was using race fuel and had stored the bike with this type of fuel in the tank and carbs. His reason = racing fuel doesnt seperate and wont gum things up!

Thanks to everyone for your help.

On another note I was able to tighten the steering stem nuts and eliminate all wobble from the front end. Woooo Hooo!