Stinger digital voltmeter wiring

[dannymax]

I mounted a Stinger voltmeter on the handlebar clamp, ran the wires into the headlight shell and took power from signal light wires.

Problem is, there are (3) wires on the voltmeter...red (constant power), blue (switched power) and black (ground) and there isn't a constant power sourch (red) in the headlight shell to hook the red gauge wire to.

So I twisted the red & blue from the gauge together and attached them to the blue running light wire on the signals, and the black to the black ground wire.

I haven't measured the battery voltage yet but if there's any difference can't I just adjust the Stinger to match the battery and call it a day?

 

[bikedave99]

I mounted a Stinger voltmeter on the handlebar clamp, ran the wires into the headlight shell and took power from signal light wires.

Problem is, there are (3) wires on the voltmeter...red (constant power), blue (switched power) and black (ground) and there isn't a constant power sourch (red) in the headlight shell to hook the red gauge wire to.

So I twisted the red & blue from the gauge together and attached them to the blue running light wire on the signals, and the black to the black ground wire.

I haven't measured the battery voltage yet but if there's any difference can't I just adjust the Stinger to match the battery and call it a day?

Thats pretty much what I did with my little Voltmeter install. Since the wire I was measuring from was switched i just twisted the power and signal wire together.

So what is the theory behind the adjustable voltage? If at your bucket, you measure a .5V difference between there and the battery you just adjust the meter to match the battery so you have a more accurate reading of the battery without having to do the homerun wiring? If this is the case, then I would say that is pretty cool... except that as little wires heat up or are loaded more they tend to be more or less restrictive. Voltage with weird resistances in the conductors don't seem to move in a linear manner to me. Slick piece though!

 

[ridinnoshiftin]

Anyone looking for inexpensive voltmeters? Check these out and should be free shipping as well.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i702_voltage-monitoring-systems.html

Todd

 

[NHVmaxpower]

Danny what one do you have and where can you mount it? I'm ordering one this week and also a shift light. What are you all using for shift lights?

 

[CaptainKyle]

Danny what one do you have and where can you mount it? I'm ordering one this week and also a shift light. What are you all using for shift lights?

I am using a raptor shift light. http://www.raptorperformance.com/

 

[dannymax]

Dave, that's what I was thinking....just adjust out any variance.

NH, I got this one w/blue led's http://compare.ebay.com/like/180953134197?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar and 3M double side taped it to the top handlebar clamp, then ran the wires under the crown piece and in to top hole in the headlight shell. It fits pretty well there I think.

I had a red led one on '99 but velcroed the gauge to the right scoop....which was a pia and didn't look so great either.

Hey, now to get some blue gauge lights....Yeah!!

 

[dannymax]

Anyone looking for inexpensive voltmeters? Check these out and should be free shipping as well.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i702_voltage-monitoring-systems.html

Todd

That's a good site! The one I got is $7 bucks less on there! :bang head:

 

[ridinnoshiftin]

That's a good site! The one I got is $7 bucks less on there! :bang head:

Danny,

I am an old miser, frugal some would say......others just call me a cheap bas**rd! Just thought I would pass it along if anyone was in the market for one and to save a couple of bucks! I did think their pricing was favorable. Now you can afford to buy some for all the other bikes you have Danny..lol!

Todd

 

[dannymax]

Danny,

I am an old miser, frugal some would say......others just call me a cheap bas**rd! Just thought I would pass it along if anyone was in the market for one and to save a couple of bucks! I did think their pricing was favorable. Now you can afford to buy some for all the other bikes you have Danny..lol!

Todd

That's a great idea Todd! :clapping:

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I would say yes it would be fine.

If you want unquestionable accuracy run straight to the battery for measurement and find a switched source.

 

[Miles Long]

If say yes it would be fine.

If you want unquestionable accuracy is so the home run straight to the battery for measurement and find a switched source.

For my analog voltmeter, I used the brown wire from the ignition switch. I tapped into it near the three-wire connector, just under the faux tank, near the frame neck. Very close to true battery voltage at this location.
Cheers!

 

[dannymax]

For my analog voltmeter, I used the brown wire from the ignition switch. I tapped into it near the three-wire connector, just under the faux tank, near the frame neck. Very close to true battery voltage at this location.
Cheers!

I was thinking about that connector, it isn't far from my mounting location and I should gob some di-electric grease in it anyway.

Then I could stick with the directional wires in the headlight shell for switched power & ground?

 

[Miles Long]

I was thinking about that connector, it isn't far from my mounting location and I should gob some di-electric grease in it anyway.

Then I could stick with the directional wires in the headlight shell for switched power & ground?

The brown is switched power. For the ground, I used a new wire attached to a mounting bolt near the rear coils.
Good idea to check out that connector. It's the one that shorted thru the plastic on mine, and at least one other member's bike on this forum. The bike will not shut off (using the ignition switch), if this happens.

 

[dannymax]

The brown is switched power. For the ground, I used a new wire attached to a mounting bolt near the rear coils.
Good idea to check out that connector. It's the one that shorted thru the plastic on mine, and at least one other member's bike on this forum. The bike will not shut off (using the ignition switch), if this happens.

Yeah, familiar with this issue....it was why I finally was able to buy back my '85 700x....a dealer told the guy there was a wiring short (which was true) and could result in replacing the entire harness. (which could have been true but was actually a touch dramatic). Simply replaced the connector and....GTG! :clapping:

I guess I should pull the voltmeter wires back out of the headlight shell, it isn't acting right....at idle it reads 11.6, a quick throttle snap and when it returns to idle it reads 12.5. :ummm:

Was just being lazy and didn't want to add any wire. :worthy:

I'll solder some more wire in and run the black & red to the battery and the blue to a suitable switched brown wire....what I should've done in the first place! :bang head: