stock a/f screw?

[Arlon]

Hi Folks,

Yesterday I had my carb's synchronised and wanted them a/f finetuned.
The synchronising worked realy well and made a lot of diference directy!
Idle the engine was running directly very smooth.

second stage was fine tuning the air fuel mixure. The 2 litlle srews on the left side where oke but the two screws on the right side where stock.
(if I'm wright here about the a/f screws. The screws under need the diaphragms covers inside a litlle hole)
The mecanic told me that there should be litlle covers in these holes for avoiding water penetration and they where missing. This is why the inside starts corroding and the screws are getting stock. He was afraid to breack the screws and do much more damage by this.
He spayed some WD40 inside the holes and put new plastic covers in the holes. Just to see IF they are loosening after a while.
If not..... he told me the only way to replace them is drilling them out but for this the carb's need to be removed to do a very sensitive job.

Is this the only way?? or is there an other way to get them working again?

Greetzzz

 

[tmosel]

If the screw won't budge after the WD-40 has been on for awhile, then the next step is to have them drilled out.

 

[ninjaneer]

WD 40 is NOT a good penetrating oil. Use PB Blast or Liquid Wrench. WD40 is a Water Displacement formula. at least this is how i have come to learn about it. please correct me if i wrong.

anyways unfortunately, if some kind of penetrating fluid cannot loosen up the screws, then i fear drilling them out is the only recourse. This is why the screw ports need to be covered (not a lecturing point for you because the previous owner (PO) neglected to do so)

 

[wildweasel_pt]

A small tap on the screwdriver might break the corrosion layer and help the oil getting in better. I use to do that when removing old rotor bolts. Tap them with a hammer (proper size) to break the contact layer and then allow for the oil to penetrate more... Good for breaking the loctite seal as well...

 

[Arlon]

Thanks I will try the above mentioned ideas of tapping the screw gently and the PB blast.
Just hope it will work out.

Greetzzzz

 

[PDWeyand]

pb blaster works, soak it daily for a few days then try to adjust. If not them you'll have to drill them.

 

[PATMAX]

This does not help now but a smear of grease to close up the opening that used to covered by a brass plug works ok. I think Naughty G found little rubber plugs which I promptly lost. Grease will pick up dirt/grit on the exposed area over time so it is not a perfect solution.

 

[jfeagins]

White Lithium based grease is not supposed to pick up dirt. Perhaps a dose of that in the hole of working a/f screws could ward off the evil corrosion? I garage my 85 with the holes open, and so, have never had this issue.

 

[ninjaneer]

This does not help now but a smear of grease to close up the opening that used to covered by a brass plug works ok. I think Naughty G found little rubber plugs which I promptly lost. Grease will pick up dirt/grit on the exposed area over time so it is not a perfect solution.

ace hardware has some plugs for cheap that work perfectly.

 

[Arlon]

Last saterday, while I was at the V-max specialist, he sold me 4 of these litlle pluggies specialy for these synchronising holes.
This afternoon I bought some Motul anti corrosion spray and I sprayed this into the holes. After an our I used a very well fitting screwdriver and a litlle hammer to tap the screw while slightly turning. One of the screws now came lose. still one to go.
fingers crossed......!

 

[tugla]

if you can get aerocroil or mouse milk, those good penetrants also. take your time getting them out and then inspect them, chg them out if need be they are cheap compared to drilling them out. usually the spring has rust on it and the dissimilar metals is what is sticking.