stock air/fuel screw settings please

[Nick.]

I need to clean out my a/f screws and ports because it's a little hesitant. I'd like to know the stock setting for them. I saw someone had theirs set 3 turns out so I wasn't sure if that was stock or not.

Anyway, other than this little problem the bike is road ready. There's a starter from an 05 max with 4 brushes, royal venture starter solenoid, fresh gas of the highest octane i could find, and a set of... shinko? tires on the way!

I would like to do a few mods to it within the next 6 months too. a new front fender, COPS, R1 R/R, and maybe I'll do the big battery mod.

Oh, also where can I find one of those scoops that go below the radiator, one of those air dams?

 

[davidon]

Use 87 octane..higher is just increasing carbon build up on the valves

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

My stock settings were: Cyl's #1,3,4 @ 1&3/4 turns out....Cly #2 was 2 turns out. FWIW

 

[richwrench]

Stock settings on most carbs lean towards the lean side. I always start at 2 1/2 & adjust from there, whether it's a VMAX, car, truck, whatever. just my .02

 

[RaWarrior]

Agreed, using high octane gives zero additional power(best combustion occurs with the LOWEST possible octane that doesn't pre-ignite...fuel is at it's most volatile). I've tried "premium" in my bike and noticed absolutely no difference between 87 and 93. Plus, over a days ride the extra money for hi-test could buy you a beer when you're done.

I found mine all 3 turns out, but the p/o had definetly been in the carbs to put in the stage 1 kit, so idk if that's stock or not.

Lots of people here run the Shinkos and like them. Not the longest lasting, but definitely one of the stickier ones out there. Depending how you ride, you can get anywhere from 4000 to 8000 miles out of the rear.

IMO converting to COP's is one of the best mods you can do. Cheap, easy, and the bike for sure starts easier, idles smoother, and is more responsive at all RPM's. See the COP thread in electrical for more on this. Cost is usually under $50(sticks and harnesses are all over ebay), and takes about an hour to install/splice in connectors.

Check your voltage at idle and above idle. If it's low (sub 13 volts), first try the "crimp fix"....it's detailed on vmaxoutlaw.com. After I did that I picked up almost a full volt across the board. Brought my voltage from a questionable 12.8 to 13.6. If you still get low voltage, then look into the R/R swap, since the vmax stock one just seems to suck and never works quite as well as it should. I have the stock battery size, but run the Odyssey PC880(I think that's the number). Never any problems starting.

By "scoop", you mean the "chin piece"? There's a guy that sells them on eBay, but they're quite pricey and of course come unpainted.

 

[dannymax]

Exactrep and Fatmax have some popular belly pans.

http://www.exactrep.com/acatalog/in....com/acatalog/pp.marving-4-1.html&CatalogBody

http://fatmax.com/vmax/vmax.htm

 

[Nick.]

I adjusted the screws to 2 1/2 out, they were something like 1 3/4 when I moved them in. Anyway, I found my back left side carb may be putting a little too much gas in because I had the air box cover off and looked i to the carbs to check the diaphragm slides. I pulled it back and it was bringing gas onto the butterfly while none of the others didn't do that. I may have to pull off the carbs again to do a little tinkering.

 

[one2dmax]

Sounds like a sticking float.
Sean

 

[Nick.]

i think the main might be clogged on the back right carb too, the pipe is only warm after a run, not hot. however it's still damn quick

 

[[email protected]]

i think the main might be clogged on the back right carb too, the pipe is only warm after a run, not hot. however it's still damn quick

Might want to check the plug for that cylinder before you tear into the carb. If its dry then I would think carb issue. If its wet then I would think spark issue.

 

[Nick.]

there's spark all around. Gotta get into the carbs again... woo hoo