Shuriken
Well-Known Member
I've had various vintage Yamaha's over the years and know what dropping a cylinder feels like. A couple weeks ago, the bike lost power. I suspected a bad cylinder.
So... pull each plug boot at a time and rear left makes no change in engine rpm. So that's the offender.
Yank the plug and it is black and fouled. Rest are fine.
Test primary and secondary ignition coil resistance on that one. Within spec.
Swap coil to the rear right cyl. Problem does NOT follow the coil. So coil appears to be fine. In fact both rear coils measure in-spec.
Swap only the plug wires and boots. Problem remained the same regardless of plug lead/boot positions!
On to spark plug tests. Yank fouled plug and ground it to the engine and crank the bike. Good consistent spark.
Take a break. Come back to cold engine. Swap in a new plug. Start bike. Yank boot while running and engine rpm drops like it should. Awesome.
Take it up the street and it's gutless!
Pull back into driveway while warm and running and yank the boot. No change in rpm!
Turn it off, disassemble and get to all harness connectors around bike, includingat the ignition module. Reseat all connectors. No difference.
I can leave a plug in the cylinder and disconnect boot from that plug. I can then use another spark plug grounded to engine and I can observe good spark and rev engine and the spark advance appears to also be working.
All signs are that there is spark!
So that leaves me to ponder other possible issues. Poor compression on one cylinder all the sudden? Carb issue on one cylinder? Or ignition board fault on one cylinder?
The only thing I noticed was when it was a cold engine, yanking the boot on the bad cylinder did create the drop in rpm. So it seems a cold engine and new plug worked as expected for a couple minutes.
Telltale sign of overly rich fuel is usually indicated when bikes run worse when hot. But I swear this seems like a spark issue....
Some things left to try:
Plug chop test at mid/full throttle to make sure only 1 cylinder has the issue.
Check for fuel in the float bowl of the bad cylinder.
Compression test
VBoost does work, I can observe the mechanism opening at speed.
Anybody have any further ideas?
So... pull each plug boot at a time and rear left makes no change in engine rpm. So that's the offender.
Yank the plug and it is black and fouled. Rest are fine.
Test primary and secondary ignition coil resistance on that one. Within spec.
Swap coil to the rear right cyl. Problem does NOT follow the coil. So coil appears to be fine. In fact both rear coils measure in-spec.
Swap only the plug wires and boots. Problem remained the same regardless of plug lead/boot positions!
On to spark plug tests. Yank fouled plug and ground it to the engine and crank the bike. Good consistent spark.
Take a break. Come back to cold engine. Swap in a new plug. Start bike. Yank boot while running and engine rpm drops like it should. Awesome.
Take it up the street and it's gutless!
Pull back into driveway while warm and running and yank the boot. No change in rpm!
Turn it off, disassemble and get to all harness connectors around bike, includingat the ignition module. Reseat all connectors. No difference.
I can leave a plug in the cylinder and disconnect boot from that plug. I can then use another spark plug grounded to engine and I can observe good spark and rev engine and the spark advance appears to also be working.
All signs are that there is spark!
So that leaves me to ponder other possible issues. Poor compression on one cylinder all the sudden? Carb issue on one cylinder? Or ignition board fault on one cylinder?
The only thing I noticed was when it was a cold engine, yanking the boot on the bad cylinder did create the drop in rpm. So it seems a cold engine and new plug worked as expected for a couple minutes.
Telltale sign of overly rich fuel is usually indicated when bikes run worse when hot. But I swear this seems like a spark issue....
Some things left to try:
Plug chop test at mid/full throttle to make sure only 1 cylinder has the issue.
Check for fuel in the float bowl of the bad cylinder.
Compression test
VBoost does work, I can observe the mechanism opening at speed.
Anybody have any further ideas?