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one2dmax
Well-Known Member
i'd say no.
Sean
Sean
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
I'd agree, because the hose would be going from the outside of the elbow, to the inside of the block(if I understand correctly?)
That would cause a taper in the hose, and under pressure that taper would act like a wedge and blow it out.
The "free" fix is to just use bailing wire to tie the elbow up. Someone here did that and posted pictures of it. Loop it around and use pliers to twist the ends tightening it.
Or maybe stick a couple quarters under the bumper piece so it pushes the elbow in a little farther. A new bumper is like $15, quarters only cost $0.25 and achieve the same effect.
That would cause a taper in the hose, and under pressure that taper would act like a wedge and blow it out.
The "free" fix is to just use bailing wire to tie the elbow up. Someone here did that and posted pictures of it. Loop it around and use pliers to twist the ends tightening it.
Or maybe stick a couple quarters under the bumper piece so it pushes the elbow in a little farther. A new bumper is like $15, quarters only cost $0.25 and achieve the same effect.
firefly
Well-Known Member
Cheap fix is not the issue especially when your good engine seizes from this stupid thing, I've seen a bracket fix but it doesn't look durable, the most important thing in a fix is to allow for vibration without coming apart, something that blocks the O-ring from bulging downward & at the same time allows for up & down movement, apparently the stock damper at the bottom does half the job & does not address the O-ring bulging, may be the first idea of the hose instead of going in the block we can make it end below the lower O-ring lip to fill the space where the O-ring bulges from.
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PATMAX
Well-Known Member
Yeah, Idea won't work. I am sure an additional clamp which draws the upper pipe and lower pipe together can be done if someone wanted to engineer it. I actually like safety wire tying it and have used a really trick wire tying kit found at Daytona. Wire is strong, malleable, quick and easy to use. If I were an engine builder, I would include it free with a Kawasaki o ring update or any engine rebuild.
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[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Not sure that I understand why it has to be able to move?
I installed the kawi washer and put the COO pop stopper under the elbow. This setup doesn't allow for movement. At least I know its not coming out.
Also did Seans oil pump upgrades
I installed the kawi washer and put the COO pop stopper under the elbow. This setup doesn't allow for movement. At least I know its not coming out.
Also did Seans oil pump upgrades
firefly
Well-Known Member
what is the COO pop stopper?, I'll do Sean's pump gear upgrade when I get to this point in the rebiuld.
Thanks
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
An overpriced piece of plastic that replaces the rubber bumper on the bottom of the elbow. It is a solid plastic disc. It has a raised center that locates in the recess in the bottom of the elbow. It basically wedges the elbow against the oil pan and locks it in place. I really do not see a need to replace the OEM o-ring if you use the COO part.
http://www.cycleoneoff.com/vmaxpag2.html
Scroll to the bottom of the page.
http://www.cycleoneoff.com/vmaxpag2.html
Scroll to the bottom of the page.
i did the same thing, works great. the kawi o-ring didn't work for me (had a bottle jack under the bike lifting the bike up trying to get it in) so i sourced a viton o-ring that fits better than stock. i have 23(?) left. firefly , free if you send me your addr i'll send one out.
VMX12Rider
Member
My understanding is the pipe itself was redesigned for 1999 and up, the Oring is bigger. I'm not finding any proof that this was an improvement and starting to suspect my own.
ukshane
Member
I used the kawi o-ring and a bracket on mine (someone makes them on http://vmaxchat.com/ ). The video below shows the bracket at about eight and a half minutes in, it's a strong bracket so hopefully should do the job.
http://youtu.be/_66veAGxVm8
http://youtu.be/_66veAGxVm8
Miles Long
Well-Known Member
Worth watching, just for the entertainment value alone. I thought at first that it was a Monty Python skit.
As for "The Problem", there has been mention of using a fiber-optic camera - successfully- to determine whether or not the o-ring has "popped". Wish someone would post a video of this procedure. I believe the oil plug hole is used to access the sump.
Cheers!
deekjx
Well-Known Member
how prevalent is this issue and should I be worried about my engine? Are there warning signs prior to your engine going poof?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Get an oil pressure gauge and keep an eye on it.
Oil Pressure Kit from Cycle One Off........... The only way to know for sure....
http://www.cycleoneoff.com/vmaxpag2.html
http://www.cycleoneoff.com/vmaxpag2.html
sdt354
Well-Known Member
+1 I did the same thing here Dave. I watch that gauge now. And, don't hammer it till the pressure comes down,which means the engine heated up enough.
COO has a bracket that came out after I did mine or I would have used that too. It holds the pipe tight using one of the main bearing cap bolts. I think the problem is the pipe moving as much as the o-ring.
Steve
sdt354
Well-Known Member
I can only say it happened to me. Unless you bought new and took precautions, like warming up your engine, you don't know. I'm willing to bet the guy that owned my bike before me didn't have a clue about the o-ring issue.
The scope check is interesting. The oil sender hole could prolly be used too, for inspection.
Steve
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