Tools needed / tips to replace fork seals on 2010 Vmax.

[Sam's2ndgen]

Hi all, I need to do fork seals on my 2010. I've searched all over and I keep finding videos and info on 1st gens but nothing on 2nd gens. I did manage to find the service manual so it looks like I could do the job but it doesn't tell me what tools are needed other than some Yamaha specific specialty tool numbers.
I'm sure I could make a driver out of pipe or conduit or something so I doubt I need the specialty tools. Is the bottom damper rod bolt an Allen like the old ones? If so, what size and length do I need? What else do I need? I'll be working on my bike at home but my tools are at work 28 miles away so I need to make sure I bring everything home that I need and if there's anything I don't have I want to buy it and have everything ready to go before I tear into it. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Unless I have missed something the only special tool you need is the damper rod holder.
Suggest you have a look a p1-38.

 

[Sam's2ndgen]

Unless I have missed something the only special tool you need is the damper rod holder.
Suggest you have a look a p1-38.

Is there any way to hold the damper rod so the bottom bolt can be removed/ installed without buying the special tool?

 

[MaxMidnight]

Applying a 'sudden' torque to the bolt (e.g. with an air gun) will often allow you to withdraw it.
That said, you have the dimensions for the tool which should be easy enough to fabricate.

 

[gentsvmax]

Is there any way to hold the damper rod so the bottom bolt can be removed/ installed without buying the special tool?

I got lucky with one quick burst of my impact.
Just make sure you clean and bottom out the allen bit in the head of that bolt.

 

[Radioguylogs]

I've done 8 sets of forks using an air impact wrench to remove the bottom bolt with complete success. It was easy.

As said by gentsvmax, clean out the socket for the allen driver .

 

[Traumahawk]

I changed a leaking fork seal just a couple of months ago. I bought a damper tool....but didnt need it. Here it is. CMSNL has a LOT of specific yamaha tools.

https://www.cmsnl.com/products/damper-rod-holder_9089001447/
I DID buy a 52 mm fork seal driver though, and made the job VERY quick and easy. It was also the cheapest one that I could find.

https://www.bbracingllc.com/VMAX-FORK-SEAL-DRIVER-52MM_p_7353.html
Hope this helps.

 

[Sam's2ndgen]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I got 'em done and back on the bike last night, now I just gotta get motivated and get the rest of the bike back together today.
The bottom allen size was 8mm or 5/16" if anyone interested stumbles onto this thread later. I tried to zip them out with my little 1/4" DeWalt impact driver. It had plenty of power to break them loose but wouldn't spin them quickly enough to remove the bolts without just spinning the part inside. I fired up the air compressor and and tried this high-strung little 3/8" IR impact that I never use anymore because it'll throw sockets and fasteners into low earth orbit lol. It zipped those bottom bolts out instantly. My little 1/4" DeWalt was perfect to zip them back in tight enough for me to final torque them with a proper torque wrench.
The toughest part for me was getting those darn little rings out from on top of the seals. As for a driver, I used a split piece of 2" PVC with a hose clamp to drive the top bushing back in. The od of the PVC was too small to drive the seals in so I used an old plastic tube vc alignment tool thing that came with an old subwoofer recone kit. It had the perfect od and the id was just big enough to clear the lip of the seal. I used the split PVC clamped above that to drive the new seals in. One of them went in a little too far and there's a gap between the seal and the wire ring. I decided to leave it and roll with it rather than try to do it over again and risk damaging it. I hope it doesn't cause any problems. What do y'all think? Will it matter if one of the seals is in a little too far?

 

[Radioguylogs]

I didn't think it was possible to drive the seal in too far. The seal in the other fork might not be seated against the "step".

At any rate, I would think they should be OK if they are not crooked in the tube.

 

[Sam's2ndgen]

I didn't think it was possible to drive the seal in too far. The seal in the other fork might not be seated against the "step".

At any rate, I would think they should be OK if they are not crooked in the tube.

I actually bought an extra seal just in case I screwed one up. Even after beating the crap out of it the first one wouldn't go down far enough to get the ring in so I knocked it back out and started over with another new seal after flipping the washer over thinking maybe that was the cause as it's flat on one side and slightly rounded at the edges on the other side. I must've sent 'er a little too hard the second go round cuz it's about ~ 1mm below the ring now. It's at least even the whole way around and not leaking now. I'm going on a toy run in the morning so we'll see how it goes. Wish me luck.

 

[Sam's2ndgen]

Update: No problems after a long day of riding on some pretty rough roads at times. Apparently driving the seal down a little too deep wasn't an issue.